sixwheeledbeast

Does the system have a maintainer? If so you would be best to speak to them modifying the system would void any warranty with them. I don't know for this panel but the values given for an amps impedance would normally be minimums. If you have a 16ohm installed then I would aim for that.

You would try to match the impedance recommended for the panel (often 16ohm) but will vary by panel. This is the balance of poor volume or shorting the amp circuit out.

The one way Visonic is all discontinued, any in service won't have much life left before something fails, newer stuff is two way and seems more reliable. It's possible but your stuck with only using ADT devices and you need to know how to program it all up if you default everything.

Had the occasional one where a power cycle makes it go away. Have you checked everything over with a meter? You replaced the whole panel then?

Don't trust any type of folding or telescopic ladders myself, seen too many incidents.

Doesn't matter you maybe able to pivot from "smart" devices or these routers to a "security device" it's irrelevant regarding firmware patches if it has a network connection in some way. Regarding non-contract customers then they are non-contract so take the risk themselves IMO. It's just like not having a system checked annually there is more risk of some failure being unnoticed.

I don't recommend using any ISP provided router if your tech savvy enough to manage your own. Yes stuff needs updating but more likely it will be discontinued or never done. Auto firmware updates could be an option but that would be undesirable solution IMO. What's to say that isn't exploited in the future somehow, or it borks up and bricks the device at a time of need. You say "smart security" but any internet connected device has a risk and if your device is hosting a service you will be more at risk. Issue is it costs money for this stuff but people want those free appz.

I would argue its more like EOL with six different shunt values, a data BUS would be different to measuring a pair for electrical resistance or voltage. It really isn't that big of a deal to be getting fecked over? Wouldn't mind having a look at one (or a manual) again actually, they were pretty clever for there age.

Most of the Modern and Thorn stuff I have ripped out where the colours H said TBH, there will never be a standard even sometimes within companies as they will takeover other systems. You could argue that the wiring regs harmonised all the colours for DC and our 12v circuits should be Brown +ve and either Grey or Blue -ve depending on if the supply is referenced to earth since then... but where is the Grey conductor unless you use 12c? Either way colours are irrelevant best to paint with terminal descriptions than colours. Some old school engineers when cable was relatively expensive would change the cable size and colours at every connection point so what's a orange and brown pair on a 8c maybe blue and yellow on a 4c two devices later...

I know ADE iD was a data BUS, I was told it was a proprietary version based around RS485 no idea how true that was. I recall Map6 was based around zener diodes of different values, but I only ever seen one in all my years. No idea about HKC, I assume it's not ADE iD? If so I don't see the point, why not just be BUS based like keypads be that 485 or whatever the panel uses.

If they are on a site working. You wouldn't fit one now.

iD ... nowadays?

It divides one panel zone into 6 separate latching circuits. I suppose not something you see about much any more.

Are the shocks reset properly after activation?

Just don't fit this junk? You can't complain about race to the bottom tat but still install the stuff IMO.

If that's how it's been wired then he definitely left on a horse... Try swapping with another zone if you are ruling out the tamper.

You bumped a really old thread, the firmware was very different back then possibly even older hardware. Not needed to do the "battery monitoring shuffle" at all on the newer hardware. Are you sure these new batteries are good quality and fully charged before installing? I wouldn't be surprised if the battery was at fault and the battery test timer was 7 days.

Closed platform that Amazon have control over all data and can change T&C's whenever they feel, no thanks.

More American news...but https://www.cnet.com/home/security/adt-sues-amazons-ring-over-use-of-blue-octagon-logo/ Don't like the term "DIY home security company" used in the article, more like "Bezos global empire tat boxes" IMO

Veritas 8C is an onboard system so no other control box. You will not be able to disconnect it without making some noise. Need ladders to get in the outside to decommission the system completely. You have an intermittent tamper issue, you could get someone in to diagnose and repair the issue if you would use it. If you have no intention to use it at all then have it decommissioned for the sake of your neighbours as they need regular maintenance to be reliable. Power cuts shouldn't trigger any alarm system, any that activate during a power cut shows they are faulty and require servicing. These panels are known for slight transformer buzz, can happen if they are mounted to a wall that's not flat resonates through the plastic case.

I wouldn't consider GJD sensors for an intruder alarm they are more for CCTV and lighting controls. Maybe consider other detection options like active IR beams these shouldn't have sunlight issues (Optex and Takex brands would be popular quality options here).

TMD's are not for outdoor use no. Wouldn't say they are suitable for anything more than very light commercial (clean office) as they are terrible for false alarms from past experience of them. For outdoor the sensor should be designed for the environment, over here I would consider something like an Optex LX-402 for that type of detection, no idea if you can get that type of thing in Sofia. If your Paradox sensors are for outdoor maybe you have a positioning issue? Even the best sensor you can buy will struggle from positioning into direct sunlight.

Brown line - black neutral - grey earth but far from ideal I agree. Also 13A fuse but it is a test board I suppose. Every system is different tho, what if there is no spur, I'm sure the average user would have more questions after watching than before.

Sing the lingo? You came with a closed shop and several people have tried to explain it's not as simple as your original post; you seem to just ignore verbose responses to the topic. What did trading standards actually say then? You mention you spoke to them but considering this is general practice in the industry (written in the standards) then I don't see what action you think they would take. Also feel free to contact NSI, which is ADT's inspectorate, maybe they can explain everything above in the right lingo.

It's still a non-issue. The customer isn't allowed engineering codes for reasons already explained above, plus you can do what you need to without it anyway. It could be decommissioned without it being removed completely. Engineering back doors or remote neutralising solutions into this stuff is a bad idea and simply not needed. If you had an external box like most non-ADT systems in the UK you would physically have to get up to it anyway.