sixwheeledbeast

It's not controlled by ADT at all it's yours. The payment is for an engineer visit to remove it for you, not release from contract. Anyone concerned about security is unlikely to sell there used hard drive even "wiped". Remote panel wiping would be another backdoor that you would not want as a customer in a system, if the customer wished to use the system while they found another maintainer they would have no system if the outgoing maintainer wiped everything on cancellation. Honeywell maybe the manufacturer but they don't program them, each system is bespoke. You can purchase a computer with it's software (OS/BIOS/EFI) and then make your own programmes or languages and have there own licenses for example. Yes we are talking about tiny embedded systems but its still similar. The panel is the barebones and useless in default state without an engineer knowledgable to programme it for that systems design, you purchase a "security system" from the alarm company not a DIY kit or individual components.

We are talking about a security system here, having back door use once code in them all would be a serious exploit. Just like a back door in encryption seems logical to governments until this back door is then exploited worldwide or used against them. Engineering code is no customer lock in (for these panels) you can change to a different maintainer without it. It protects the company from users changing parts of the programming which may cause the system to fail, it's in the regulations that the engineer code is to be kept secure by the company for this reason. Also as your jobbing electrician knows you can decommission the system without any codes, so I fail to see the issue.

Not a scam at all. I am surprised how you come to see it this way. You wouldn't expect any other service to be any different. I wouldn't expect to call a plumbing company and ask for information how to decommission the boiler as I no longer require the central heating, for example. ADT will be pricy out of contract but they are a national company, I am sure other local companies would have come and decommissioned it.

Anything you do would have a chance of forgetting to put it back. At least with the trig out you have a visual reminder.

Try not resetting it...

If you didn't think my previous post was constructive enough then just give it a go with some ear plugs and whack anything that makes a noise with a lump hammer... You don't mention what system you have and even so they are all different depending on the system design. May need ladders to reach the outside box, you may not if SAB is inside. Either way you will not do it silently if the system works properly.

Systems in working order are not designed to be disabled by just snipping this and that, they are tampered and will usually result in lots of noise if you try. It would be completely pointless to fit them if they where easily disabled.

All of it's memory has been lost if you have been using the default code. This means it will need reprogramming, personally I'd want to replace it if it's had memory issues. I would suggest it wants checking over by an alarm engineer but your other post hints you want to DIY so I would say you need to get a half decent digital multimeter so you can test it. Both the reprogramming and use of a multimeter are skills you may have to pick up if your planning to DIY.

Indeed

We also take our road signs seriously... Brown with white text = Tourist Attraction - usually this signage is paid for by the attraction.

There could be several reasons. It's awkward to check the battery while connected, sharpish probes on the wire end of the molex. The new battery could just be faulty or cheap. The panel maybe set to the wrong battery type there are 7.2 and 9.6 battery modes on some Powermax. Could be the panel or supply failing, AFAIK the transformer should be outputting somewhere near 12 not 10Vdc. Also seen situations where PSU has been plugged on to the battery connector and blown something.

Two external boxes would normally require two power supplies due to alarm current and standby times. Strobe consumes very little power relative to the rest of the box. You should calculate the panels capacity with all components using standby current and then alarm current, making sure you get at least 12 hours standby and a full activation on your battery. It's not as simple as the panel has a 1A PSU so you can load it to 1A. Only sounding for a few seconds may mean it's in SCB mode and the battery is dead, but I am still thinking there is a tamper issue if it will not leave hold-off mode.

I assume one of these? https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/honeywell-galaxy-dimension-programming-rs232-cable-p-3389.html KK connector, if the pin crimps are gone you'd need the tool for making them too.

Depends if it's Grade 3 model, even so it's a separate output.

If using two boxes you would usually series the bell tampers. For Texecom bells the first one is wired "normal" and then the second bell is seriesed with the microswitch terminals leaving the tamper terminal unused (as per instructions). I would suspect there is a tamper issue if the bell is stuck held-off.

the digi will be the old 8pin one not 10pin.

If the alarm is in good working order, having the power off a few hours wouldn't cause any issues. It's a common misconception that alarms sound if the mains goes off but that is actually a sign they are unmaintained and faulty. PA would likely activate if connected, so you would need the code before you can silence it. I assume any monitoring would be cancelled at this point but worth checking that too.

Any Powermax stuff needs to be heading for the bin in the near future, especially if it has issues. It's one way so not secure from a radio POV, discontinued so limited parts, plus they get issues and parts fail with age especially the external sirens. This threads from 2014 so I would say it's most likely been skipped in the meantime, if they couldn't fix it.

When you say networks, you would need some networking knowledge to setup cameras or any notification systems if that was the plan for the alarm. An audible only alarm wouldn't have any TCP/IP involved if that's what you mean. I would say you could upgrade all the electronic components of the alarm, test the cabling if the system design is fine. Then treat any cameras as a separate system. DIY then always ask for manufacturer recommendations but everyone uses different ones to suit there business and what they have trained there installers for. Honeywell, Texecom, Castle, Eaton etc:- as a short list of manufacturers that aren't closed supply. Bear in mind you could spend months trying to get it work when an installer would have it done right in a day.

It's been in all that time without any annual maintenance? Most alarms can be done wired discretely (especially in a bungalow) it's all down to the quality of the installer. You would probably be fine testing and reusing the wiring. Question is:- do you want an installer or do you plan to DIY as they are completely different answers to the topic.

Yer, G2 but only if it can detect a short like JW says.

So if you have an Entry/Exit contact then you wouldn't use Timed for Area arm you would use Entry/Exit this requires no timer. You have now found why your set failing on part with it being instant, so in combination with above you set the timer purely for the part set route.

If you don't have any other devices on the entry route then you can't use Guard Access or the Area will not arm. It would be Entry/Exit, timers will only work if the Mode is set to Timed. Having nothing on the entry route is poor design really.

So you had the multimeter out and got all the voltage, current and charging rate checks? It's alright throwing a new battery in, but who says it's going to charge or takeover properly in a power cut.

In answer to the question.