sixwheeledbeast

We don't provide defaulting information, codes or engineering manuals here as per our guidelines. We have no way of verifying you are not trying to tamper with a system that is not your own. Installers use their own codes they wouldn't leave them default as that could be exploited. If the system is maintained you should contact your installer, if not follow the manual you have to start fresh. However, you will need knowledge of how to program everything back or it will not function properly.

Wouldn't expect the NVR needs 12V just a closed loop on it's own input/output, hence needing a relay. Voltages shouldn't be shared between them

Volt free would be a relay so would be marked COM/NC/NO, if it's a single terminal it will be switched output so you will need a relay. Manual will say if it's +ve/-ve applied or removed then you need to use an auxiliary voltage for the other coil side of the relay. Should be transistorised relay too due to possible back EMF.

Yer it's not usual, most places would want to install there own supplied kit. It can create warranty issues for starters.

Exactly and even so you often don't get near the 2amp because you can't get the (mains off) standby time required for the battery capacity.

Still wouldn't use wireless if your first fixing. You say uneconomical but you will be thinking different after a few years worth of lithium batteries. Yes you are incorrect to have one panel, you will need a much larger area than you think to mount control kit. It's not the zone capacity it's the power supplies and battery capacity that is the deciding factor. I would be thinking at least PE48 with one PSU200XP possibly more, if using Texe kit from what has been described. You may want both perimeter and motion detection, pet sensors are not ideal solution if you have a blank slate and are more for retrofiting when a customer gets pets, they can be hit and miss. 360 is more for where you can't cover with standard sensors you don't get the same coverage depending on the ceiling height, ideal for retail environments and maybe on domestic a garage or something but not the norm. If you go with the company route then don't concern yourself with manufacturer selection, they should use what they are trained on to provide you a good service.

Why? Just wire everything if your building it. Personally only use wireless where I have no other aesthetically suitable option on retrofit. At this point I am thinking you should consider just cabling to keep cost down but first liaising with a company that can install a monitored system let them do the second fix etc. For pets you need perimeter protection really, so contacts and/or shocks all round every opening you can access. Sensors minimum quads for normal rooms DT's for more harsh enviroments so garage etc Shocks are mounted to the frame you need to read spec sheets for areas covered and positioning depending on construction, ideally need some experience or careful reading when setting up, you may get false alarm if you fit will no commision. I would always say separate systems for redundancy Maybe but would only detect breaking glass and not other entry types. More usual to have them in retail environment. That is something you would have to decide yourself, every installer has there own preference for this but we're fitting it all the time. I wouldn't rate value over reliability, in theory you shouldn't need to contact technical support if you know the product. Not looked at drawings but you want to minimise how much of the house your walking through to switch the system off. We consider entry routes as doors where you would arm/disarm the system on leaving. If all 5 doors would be used like that then maybe but I doubt it. You could do something like this yes, but not the norm.

Speaker outputs usually have a volume control and that volume control is only for the tones and chime not alarm. Depending on the controls it maybe programmable in the settings or a potentiometer on the PCB, I don't know the I-on but it will be somewhere.

Lets hope it's reliable then...

It's extremely rare for kit to be DOA. However, removing all external wires from the system and putting the factory links back then defaulting the panel as per the instructions would be the best way to test the panel. After that if you have issues something probably wrong with the panel. Maybe keypad ribbon issue or something more serious on the PCB as been blown. Also not sure what you have linked out but there are no tamper circuits for keypads it's a data bus, so hopefully you haven't shorted that out, that would cause issues.

I am trying to rule that out or we are just going in circles....

We are still talking about a Scantronic 9800 here tho, aren't we...?

A dodgy or misconfigured anything on the network "could" cause it. Have to try and isolate to narrow it down somehow. You should be able to calculate what bandwidth should be on each link if you add up all the equipment. I guess these are unmanaged switches so you can't look at logs or change any QoS/Bandwidth settings etc.

7 years later I think it's been solved... Also default digi outputs depend on which Texe panel, "1=fire 2=pa 3=int" is not always true. They are fully programmable obviously, also outputs are -ve applied, all this was covered above.

I'd also be thinking bandwidth. Does it have it's own infra or are you on a network with other stuff? Are all the uplinks suitable for the bandwidth?

Issue with Exodus is they don't have built in sounders so if the system sounder fails you have no fire alarm, not good. Wouldn't advise having multiple devices on one zone if you can't latch them. Would just wire like any normal sensor(s) but they don't have a tamper switch, so that would just terminate to a spare terminal then back to the panel.

I assume the system hasn't been serviced in a while? Battery may have not been able to support the system or there could have been a surge when the power came back on. If the keypad is unresponsive you may need an engineer to check it over, power cycle and reprogram it if required.

Depends on the house for me, i have no issue with two. However, I would sooner have a single of decent stuff instead of multiple of budget stuff.

Don't fit them but looking at the datasheet with 350mA current I would suggest to check this.

Some boxes can't do this in which case you need another power supply.

If there aren't enough zones it needs a bigger panel.

You don't want this to happen in the first place as that would trigger the outside bell hold off when mains and battery are missing. Programming should be stored in non-volatile memory but it can be possible for memory to be lost on older kit if the system is faulty.

There will be a resistance threshold for closed loops but the lower the better, usually it's around 100-200 which you don't want to be near, but will vary on panel. Issue is diagnosing future issues when you have multiple devices on a circuit, as above.

Well then the battery is also likely duff too. They need regular servicing to be reliable. Checking the tamper return voltage with a DMM would be a start.

Why does it need an "engineer reset"? Sounds like the external box is duff to me but would need further diagnosis with a meter.