sixwheeledbeast

If that's how it's been wired then he definitely left on a horse... Try swapping with another zone if you are ruling out the tamper.

You bumped a really old thread, the firmware was very different back then possibly even older hardware. Not needed to do the "battery monitoring shuffle" at all on the newer hardware. Are you sure these new batteries are good quality and fully charged before installing? I wouldn't be surprised if the battery was at fault and the battery test timer was 7 days.

Closed platform that Amazon have control over all data and can change T&C's whenever they feel, no thanks.

More American news...but https://www.cnet.com/home/security/adt-sues-amazons-ring-over-use-of-blue-octagon-logo/ Don't like the term "DIY home security company" used in the article, more like "Bezos global empire tat boxes" IMO

Veritas 8C is an onboard system so no other control box. You will not be able to disconnect it without making some noise. Need ladders to get in the outside to decommission the system completely. You have an intermittent tamper issue, you could get someone in to diagnose and repair the issue if you would use it. If you have no intention to use it at all then have it decommissioned for the sake of your neighbours as they need regular maintenance to be reliable. Power cuts shouldn't trigger any alarm system, any that activate during a power cut shows they are faulty and require servicing. These panels are known for slight transformer buzz, can happen if they are mounted to a wall that's not flat resonates through the plastic case.

I wouldn't consider GJD sensors for an intruder alarm they are more for CCTV and lighting controls. Maybe consider other detection options like active IR beams these shouldn't have sunlight issues (Optex and Takex brands would be popular quality options here).

TMD's are not for outdoor use no. Wouldn't say they are suitable for anything more than very light commercial (clean office) as they are terrible for false alarms from past experience of them. For outdoor the sensor should be designed for the environment, over here I would consider something like an Optex LX-402 for that type of detection, no idea if you can get that type of thing in Sofia. If your Paradox sensors are for outdoor maybe you have a positioning issue? Even the best sensor you can buy will struggle from positioning into direct sunlight.

Brown line - black neutral - grey earth but far from ideal I agree. Also 13A fuse but it is a test board I suppose. Every system is different tho, what if there is no spur, I'm sure the average user would have more questions after watching than before.

Sing the lingo? You came with a closed shop and several people have tried to explain it's not as simple as your original post; you seem to just ignore verbose responses to the topic. What did trading standards actually say then? You mention you spoke to them but considering this is general practice in the industry (written in the standards) then I don't see what action you think they would take. Also feel free to contact NSI, which is ADT's inspectorate, maybe they can explain everything above in the right lingo.

It's still a non-issue. The customer isn't allowed engineering codes for reasons already explained above, plus you can do what you need to without it anyway. It could be decommissioned without it being removed completely. Engineering back doors or remote neutralising solutions into this stuff is a bad idea and simply not needed. If you had an external box like most non-ADT systems in the UK you would physically have to get up to it anyway.

It's not controlled by ADT at all it's yours. The payment is for an engineer visit to remove it for you, not release from contract. Anyone concerned about security is unlikely to sell there used hard drive even "wiped". Remote panel wiping would be another backdoor that you would not want as a customer in a system, if the customer wished to use the system while they found another maintainer they would have no system if the outgoing maintainer wiped everything on cancellation. Honeywell maybe the manufacturer but they don't program them, each system is bespoke. You can purchase a computer with it's software (OS/BIOS/EFI) and then make your own programmes or languages and have there own licenses for example. Yes we are talking about tiny embedded systems but its still similar. The panel is the barebones and useless in default state without an engineer knowledgable to programme it for that systems design, you purchase a "security system" from the alarm company not a DIY kit or individual components.

We are talking about a security system here, having back door use once code in them all would be a serious exploit. Just like a back door in encryption seems logical to governments until this back door is then exploited worldwide or used against them. Engineering code is no customer lock in (for these panels) you can change to a different maintainer without it. It protects the company from users changing parts of the programming which may cause the system to fail, it's in the regulations that the engineer code is to be kept secure by the company for this reason. Also as your jobbing electrician knows you can decommission the system without any codes, so I fail to see the issue.

Not a scam at all. I am surprised how you come to see it this way. You wouldn't expect any other service to be any different. I wouldn't expect to call a plumbing company and ask for information how to decommission the boiler as I no longer require the central heating, for example. ADT will be pricy out of contract but they are a national company, I am sure other local companies would have come and decommissioned it.

Anything you do would have a chance of forgetting to put it back. At least with the trig out you have a visual reminder.

Try not resetting it...

If you didn't think my previous post was constructive enough then just give it a go with some ear plugs and whack anything that makes a noise with a lump hammer... You don't mention what system you have and even so they are all different depending on the system design. May need ladders to reach the outside box, you may not if SAB is inside. Either way you will not do it silently if the system works properly.

Systems in working order are not designed to be disabled by just snipping this and that, they are tampered and will usually result in lots of noise if you try. It would be completely pointless to fit them if they where easily disabled.

All of it's memory has been lost if you have been using the default code. This means it will need reprogramming, personally I'd want to replace it if it's had memory issues. I would suggest it wants checking over by an alarm engineer but your other post hints you want to DIY so I would say you need to get a half decent digital multimeter so you can test it. Both the reprogramming and use of a multimeter are skills you may have to pick up if your planning to DIY.

Indeed

We also take our road signs seriously... Brown with white text = Tourist Attraction - usually this signage is paid for by the attraction.

There could be several reasons. It's awkward to check the battery while connected, sharpish probes on the wire end of the molex. The new battery could just be faulty or cheap. The panel maybe set to the wrong battery type there are 7.2 and 9.6 battery modes on some Powermax. Could be the panel or supply failing, AFAIK the transformer should be outputting somewhere near 12 not 10Vdc. Also seen situations where PSU has been plugged on to the battery connector and blown something.

Two external boxes would normally require two power supplies due to alarm current and standby times. Strobe consumes very little power relative to the rest of the box. You should calculate the panels capacity with all components using standby current and then alarm current, making sure you get at least 12 hours standby and a full activation on your battery. It's not as simple as the panel has a 1A PSU so you can load it to 1A. Only sounding for a few seconds may mean it's in SCB mode and the battery is dead, but I am still thinking there is a tamper issue if it will not leave hold-off mode.

I assume one of these? https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/honeywell-galaxy-dimension-programming-rs232-cable-p-3389.html KK connector, if the pin crimps are gone you'd need the tool for making them too.

Depends if it's Grade 3 model, even so it's a separate output.

If using two boxes you would usually series the bell tampers. For Texecom bells the first one is wired "normal" and then the second bell is seriesed with the microswitch terminals leaving the tamper terminal unused (as per instructions). I would suspect there is a tamper issue if the bell is stuck held-off.