sixwheeledbeast

Depends if it's Grade 3 model, even so it's a separate output.

If using two boxes you would usually series the bell tampers. For Texecom bells the first one is wired "normal" and then the second bell is seriesed with the microswitch terminals leaving the tamper terminal unused (as per instructions). I would suspect there is a tamper issue if the bell is stuck held-off.

the digi will be the old 8pin one not 10pin.

If the alarm is in good working order, having the power off a few hours wouldn't cause any issues. It's a common misconception that alarms sound if the mains goes off but that is actually a sign they are unmaintained and faulty. PA would likely activate if connected, so you would need the code before you can silence it. I assume any monitoring would be cancelled at this point but worth checking that too.

Any Powermax stuff needs to be heading for the bin in the near future, especially if it has issues. It's one way so not secure from a radio POV, discontinued so limited parts, plus they get issues and parts fail with age especially the external sirens. This threads from 2014 so I would say it's most likely been skipped in the meantime, if they couldn't fix it.

When you say networks, you would need some networking knowledge to setup cameras or any notification systems if that was the plan for the alarm. An audible only alarm wouldn't have any TCP/IP involved if that's what you mean. I would say you could upgrade all the electronic components of the alarm, test the cabling if the system design is fine. Then treat any cameras as a separate system. DIY then always ask for manufacturer recommendations but everyone uses different ones to suit there business and what they have trained there installers for. Honeywell, Texecom, Castle, Eaton etc:- as a short list of manufacturers that aren't closed supply. Bear in mind you could spend months trying to get it work when an installer would have it done right in a day.

It's been in all that time without any annual maintenance? Most alarms can be done wired discretely (especially in a bungalow) it's all down to the quality of the installer. You would probably be fine testing and reusing the wiring. Question is:- do you want an installer or do you plan to DIY as they are completely different answers to the topic.

Yer, G2 but only if it can detect a short like JW says.

So if you have an Entry/Exit contact then you wouldn't use Timed for Area arm you would use Entry/Exit this requires no timer. You have now found why your set failing on part with it being instant, so in combination with above you set the timer purely for the part set route.

If you don't have any other devices on the entry route then you can't use Guard Access or the Area will not arm. It would be Entry/Exit, timers will only work if the Mode is set to Timed. Having nothing on the entry route is poor design really.

So you had the multimeter out and got all the voltage, current and charging rate checks? It's alright throwing a new battery in, but who says it's going to charge or takeover properly in a power cut.

In answer to the question.

All devices to be armed in the system must be secure to arm. This is what part set arming delay is for. Also you say Hallway is Zone 1 Guard Access, do you have any other devices on the entry route?

I have no issue with leaving kit in if it's fit for purpose and well looked after. Most Optima's I find can't charge the battery properly after 10 years, even tho the system "works". Most electronic tat in houses now have some manufactured obsolescence and people seem to except that at the time and move on. Wired alarm systems don't suffer from that, much like LV wiring. Often the only reason people have a rewire is it's found to be unsafe during works or EICR. Downtime in network infra can cost more than the kit so is considered disposable after say 4 years. Part of the issue is people aren't told about service requirements for alarms but also older alarm systems would still operate for years with no fault on the display until there is a power cut or whatever. Battery boiled away years ago, bell has faulty piezos, sensors wouldn't detect an elephant on a trampoline... as long as the entry and exit tone sounds right, to the customer it's fine.

It's still sounding like a NAT issue, there will be nothing O2 can do at CS it's how the routing is done within the network. I would say options are:- *Replace DVR for something else and hope it works. *Change network provider. *Try some VPN service app to hopefully route around the NAT issue.

Ebay and ADT Visonic... it's like groundhound day... You didn't find an ex-ADT engineer to fit it then? I don't see why ADT would distribute firmware they are designed to be locked down for ADT.

Use a panel that can do double pole or just replace the devices as above. Putting resistors in old devices is often asking for trouble.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrier-grade_NAT#Disadvantages May give you a basic understanding of what I mean. It's normally more of an issue for hosting a service than connecting. I'd have a guess the device with the issue will be Telefonica carrier.

Mobile service provider. They often use CGNAT.

Service provider blocking ports? Are you all with the same provider? You have proved the devices and the account settings if it works on LAN so the only thing I would say is left would be a service provider issue.

It's alright replacing components like for like but often if the systems been in for a while and not checked over by someone knowledgable the system design would need assessment.

There maybe a number of fuses from your CU (fuse box) to the panel depending on how the supply was installed. CU may have it's own way (breaker) or it could be wired with other circuits, you may then have a FCU (fused spur) adjacent the panel with a 3A fuse. Then there are normally mains fuse carriers in the panel where the mains comes in, also don't rule out something faulty in the panel either.

I think both JW and I have both tried to explain as best we can. Your Strobe +ve terminal at the panel will be unused. You need a -ve Strobe to each bell.

One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel? The strobes are -ve trigger so you had a +ve and -ve wire where you need two -ve. You can't the point is they self activate if you tamper with them, get some earplugs. If you remove hold-off power and battery jumper, they will be in test mode until you close them again.

I try to avoid them ... IIRC they are 2k2 tamper return if using the normal bell terminals?