sixwheeledbeast

Well white is currently strobe neg but that wouldn't matter if you pull all the wires out and use whatever colours you want. I am more thinking you need to know which wire is for which box

They come with instructions, you'll have to work out where each cable goes and copy the wiring in the instructions as with two bells and every model has a different ways to wire the tamper through. You will also need to use the SCB mode so you don't overload the panel. You've worked out what they are on the panel so should be straight forward

So no replacement batteries, charging rate, voltage and resistance checks during this service then? Not fitted "basic" stuff in years, better grade kit overs so much more flexibility and diagnostic tools if you know how to use it. Even so you have no idea what in the garage has gone off, there is also no tamper protection for this wire down the garden, no alarm engineer would install it like that, even if it did "work". You still need to work out what is up with what you have, maybe this link wire up the garden is damaged causing problems with both panels. Needs further diagnosis IMO.

Don't use the backlit bellboxes so wouldn't know. Although I do have some LED modules from them, to use as a light source, none of those have any failed LEDs. Are these ones you have seen fitted by yourself?

Sometimes pros talk jibberish too... Really I would say you could have it as a standalone system, upgrade to something more modern. Alternatively, you would upgrade the house system to something decent that can have areas setup and have it as one system but partitioned off like two systems, the link to the garage would become a data bus for an expander or whatever. Would require more kit/programming knowledge to work that out from a DIY POV. I wouldn't have linked the systems together in the way you did, its more awkward for isolation when you have issues like now. Also when you do have an alarm you have no knowledge of where was triggered and have to go down the garage to investigate with possibly someone lurking about in the garden. Really you need to work out why your garage system is going "bonkers" is it the control panel or something else? No point throwing kit at it if you don't know why, I mean it may just need a quick look at by a knowledge engineer especially if you have done no maintenance on it.

As your average house gets more and more IT connected equipment really they need a little server space where the comms come in. When Openreach eventually switch off POTS you will have to power FTTP equipment anyway. I have a small UPS with Multi-WAN router, always prefer this configuration but still polling should come from the signalling device itself. The benefit for signalling to have dual paths at the device with each path polled is to identify an attack over a service outage. If the single path LAN side to the signalling failed you wouldn't be able to tell, you'll just see it down. I know we are talking different grades of signalling system here but it's worth considering what you get for your money when it comes to monitoring.

Yes it will be Connectv2 subscription via installer option.

Features wouldn't be available to DIY tho.

This is my point apps have a limited feature set for an alarm. Maintaining reliability of the system should be priority, upgrade for a better quality of system not the app. Push notifications are not guaranteed to get to you, they are not polled, dual path is better but still no guarantee without polling and can be defeated. They will get there most of the time but is that useful or a false sense of security? I would argue that push apps have more to go wrong than with a dialler, more components that could have downtime or connection issues on the way, send push and hope. Dialler would contact directly from site and keep trying until it gets through. Not recommending investing in a dialler either with ongoing changes to the phone networks but just pointing out all these devices have limitations when you are looking for alternatives to signalling via an installer. As for arming and disarming remotely, you would generally control the alarm when leaving or returning to the premises. Keypad should be on the entry route and are much more convenient than an app. Texecom app is developed, Connectv2 is released as I said there are now 3 versions out there, so no idea what reviews are talking about. Subscription stuff is only available on v2 to installers, basic functionality is available currently with free subscription.

It's the slide on fitment that makes the plastic flex, I do prefer it to the little screw in the middle tho. I remember it as a product name but never worked on one, bit like an Excel?

Well reviews on App stores I would always take with a pinch of salt, there's more to an alarm system than it's app. There are also 3 versions of Texecom apps now and latest having subscription features only via an installer. Shiny app but unreliable system would be pointless, so buying a system based on it's app is a bad idea IMO. Still of the opinion all apps are a false sense of security and offer very little, it's just the thing to have an app for everything. Either way you'll need a hybrid system if you want wireless devices, you can easily spend a fortune getting it wrong DIY. Had to fix plenty of jobs like that in my time.

Didn't play with a huge amount pre V7 but I remember the 888 and 8168 were similar to what is now export only 412/816/832, Veritas cabs and STU connections on a molex lead adapter, onboard digi. Did takeover a couple, the keyboard buttons didn't have hard plastic over the rubber membrane, made a big difference to the look and feel of the keypads. Back then the TS seemed miles ahead feature wise.

They refreshed the Premier, bumped all version numbers so all panel sizes were same at V7.0 firmware. Already out there just not too popular, lacking in features a little and had an odd menu structure with no shortcuts to get about.

Had more SMPS issues than Rick O'Shea problems... Have had the odd PIR false alarm or DT fail early on but generally install issues yer. Don't really touch Pyronix and pretty much every Risco system I have had to unfortunately deal with had some issue; not all wireless systems tho. The odd Galaxy I have had issues with contacts and the tamper buttons. It's all relative really that's part of why every installer prefers different kit, you wouldn't keep fitting it if you had a lot of grief with it. Give me a wired TS Menvier any day, if I were to pick an era for no hassle...

Bosch, Scanny Radioplus gave no trouble Rick O'shea I haven't had many issues with any I fitted, but I know some have. New Visonic alright decent range too. Powermax endless issues...

I would agree on solid but they are one way tho. Most one way stuff doesn't give grief it just silently stops working if it's tat.

You just need another Hybrid system to replace it with then. Plenty of options but manufacturer preference will vary by installer. Look for two way communication on the wireless parts if you actually want it to work. First question you need to think about is, are you looking to do this yourself or get a man in?

Texe would be type B red then, for a single door yes.

If that's what colours the instructions say? I haven't got one to hand, you would normally only cut one coloured loop from each row for one device IIRC. As al says if you are careful and cut at the top of the loop you could solder the link back closed again, if you get the wrong link. NC is a spare terminal (no connection)

There's a good few Karizmas out there still, some companies back in the day only fitted iD. But they are bound to cause an issue to the occupiers in the near future. NVM checksum issues, failing obsolete biscuits, lots wired star with four cored cable, your just kicking the can down the road not upgrading.

You need to break it down and work out why it's not triggering. So is it messed up programming in the dialler or it's input after that you know if to check output of the panel. They can get a surge up the phone line that damaged them but if test calls work that's unlikely in your case.

The system is an obsolete iD system, most are star wired this type of wiring is not like most alarm systems so they can be difficult to upgrade to a more traditional wired alarm. I would say it should be replaced sooner than later but if your leaving your unlikely wanting to be spending money on it. Regards replacement it all depends on the system but it's very possible you would need to start again wiring, sensors the lot. If you have been in engineers mode and it will not clear on leaving, it's likely still got a fault with that device, wire or biscuit if they aren't iD sensors. Someone that knows iD systems would likely sort it no problem even if you have to remove that device and have less on the system.

You can't buy ADT stuff new, I don't see why you would anyway.

Sounds like it may need user authorisation first. It's been a while since I worked on one even then it would have been a UK variant with EN options so maybe different.