sixwheeledbeast

Panic button pressed somewhere?

If you have no knowledge of it's service history replacing it for something modern would be the sensible option.

If it's been reset, do you know if the rest of the panel is programmed right? I have known them to not save some settings you program in when they are dying. Really wants replacing if you want it to be reliable.

Your panel will be the "Texecom/Menvier/Scantronic" setting "4K7/2K2" I expect

If it's got built in resistors they don't "sort automatically" but you set them from the instruction with jumpers. Manufacturers use different values for there kit so most PIR's have the options to cover them all.

1) Tamper terminals on PIR will be marked meter them and simulate closing the lid. 2) yep. All values should be monitored for a little while and be steady, although no guarantees on finding a very intermittent cable fault, chances point more towards the PIR but need to test these things.

I can't see a unit conforming for response without some controls.

Eaton? 76x with 726's

You could have everything on FE if you wanted although it's not advised. Bear in mind the more you put on the entry route the less "instant" protection you have. Personally I always try to avoid having systems on timed exit but you have no option if you have no other way to terminate the setting procedure.

It's the wiring regs, covers any wiring up to LV. I don't think they aim to be vague they aim to be concise and clear. One issue I do have is all these standards are set for good practices and safety reasons, cost decent money to buy but they refer to so many other regs in each other you would be bankrupt if you bought everyone that is referenced.

Not a fan of those plug in app only setup mesh boxes. Like DIY alarms... More business end but most Draytek AP's are mesh, the new 802 is pretty compact and has a LAN port. I still say for the OP a half decent wired AP somewhere central will probably do it. Boosters are only as good as they get, garbage in garbage out.

Equipment like tools and access. It's all well having the manual but it may as well be in another language if you don't understand the terminologies used in the industry. Information like software and installer manuals are mostly trade only, you may find copies about the net but no guarantees. As JW it can also be debatable about insurance validity if you maintain your own system, that's if they require a system for insurance.

I would expect there would be some type of detection device programmed on 13 but you may not know about it for some reason. Have you installed this yourself? It wouldn't be an expander or PSU on Texe they have separate fault text.

Yep I second that, it's the knowledge of how to maintain the system (annual checks, batteries, testing and programming). Then also consider what you do if something unforeseen goes wrong with it, often happens at the least convenient time when you can't get help. Do you have the equipment to access all the components at that time. A well maintained system would rarely cause you an issue tho . Maybe call some local companies and explain your situation if your uncertain, if they support Visonic they maybe flexible and work with what you have although most would prefer to only support there own kit so they offer you the best QoS.

As I understand it they are moving towards cabling being at least LSZH and not allowing plastic containment to be used in the next amendment of BS7671. Not only due to failing of containment/fixings during a fire but due to toxic fumes and poor vision when trying to escape. I mention this for those using YT2 galv support clips. I think there is still room for innovation in fire proof fixings for all surfaces, unfortunately cheapest options always win.

Nope it's replace everything or find ADT versions. They gave you what you asked for I suppose, you have paid for them to check over the programming, change the codes and hand over the system, also maybe set up PowerManager to this TP? For most companies focus is on the product as a whole, (i.e. a full working system) this is how it's sold. The components and compatibilities between them are engineering questions, unlikely to be a topic of conversation when talking contracts. To add insult to injury, Visonic are part of Tyco group so buying non ADT branded Visonic would be the "final cash grab", if you want to phrase it like that.

Anti-clockwise twisting with left but right handed, I do the same but without the OCD...

Maybe a spit gun but not staples...

A switch with an access point is possibly the term your looking for. Or maybe just an access point plugged into the current switch. Every site is different when it comes to WiFi signal, so many variables to work with. In a standard house the router is often in the worst place for WiFi signal due where the master socket is. Often disabling the WiFi at the router and having a decent wired access point in a central location best solution with minimal kit cost.

That would indicate to me that it was unreliable or had an issue and they just killed all the internal sounders and left it. I suppose you will have to see.

Maybe the keypad or cabling to the keypad is faulty? To power down the system you will have to deal with the bellbox hold-off, this will run for 15-20 minutes every time it looses power or has a trigger (the bell itself controls this time). If your competent it maybe time to consider upgrading the controls while your messing out diagnosing what is broken. Bellbox batteries are generally not worth replacing just replace. Being cheap you may find it's just the keypad but probably just kicking the can down the road if something else fails, hard to say without looking at the overall condition.

All these tampers should be in series, colours don't mean much they just mean you can identify them at both ends not what they terminate into, investigation and a multimeter is the answer. Find all the tamper pairs check them all individually, after you find and fix whatever is open, make sure they are all in series. Will only clear with lid closed too. If it's out of your depth maybe consider having an engineer look at it, most would recommend upgrading to something more modern without a global tamper.

It's a Pre-2K Veritas the programming options are very different to modern ones. Part set was option 02 IIRC. Seems like it may have lost all it's memory which is more concerning, has it been serviced and had replacement batteries in that time? We don't provide manuals, codes or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

You were posting help for Scantronic systems less than 24 hours ago... hmm

I would expect something like right click properties and then find the update drivers option? Would suggest it's best to let Windows do it if you can, especially as it seems to know it need updating.