sixwheeledbeast

It's in the manual, Type 1 or 2 copper intruder cable. So CQR Pro 8 or equiv. This should be tripled up in most cases. The transmission is TTL, you can expect occasional network errors, it logs them until you reset them. Something is wrong if you are watching them tick up live.

It's still seems like you have not tried what I suggested but whatever... Send it back is the easy option.

I have already said what you have is not normal. Have you tried what I suggested... There is still plenty more to prove, before I would consider hardware altho that's not to say you haven't actually got a duff panel/SMPS like I already said. You keep saying you question the kit but if issues like this happened to other companies in the field people wouldn't be buying them...

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Battery load test is done daily with a delay in hours, the duration of this load test is in secs usually 10, it's not software! You have too much kit on the system, you have used CCA cable which isn't recommended, it's a SMPS so will get choppy under heavy load. It's my standard kit and it's not normal behaviour so your speaking to the wrong people. It also sounds like you have bought the kit second hand or old stock and can't get it to work, there is a possibility you've been past off with old stock with a duff PSU being V6. Either way there are clearly installation issues. The kit isn't designed for DIY installation and neither is the Smartcom. You also need to use a proper multimeter not wintex if your diagnosing this stuff.

I'd assume both issues are connected, you shouldn't see large amounts of network errors. I'd expect to increase if more data is being transferred and will spill over to other network devices like you see tho. If the voltage line is dipping to near 10v quickly but intermittently it will show as data corruption and not a tamper. A list of things to consider:- Is it CCA cable? Have you tripled the power? Voltage at the last expander? What are the network lights doing? Did you factory default when you flashed? What is the hardware revision of the panel and PSU? Checked for an earth loop? Assuming the basics like cable and volt drop is fine, you can find out if these are related issues temporarily by simply ditching the +ve from the network and hooking up a clean power source like a fully charged battery from the other end of the network. I'd say you have far too much kit on one PSU if these are powered devices.

You can't, they are designed that way...!

Found on the set of 'allo 'allo...

Concerned about competence to do this with the questions your asking and also as it's the DIY section... From what you say I assume it's a PE48. You should do auxiliary equipment like this with isolators adjacent the control panel. So an output drives a transistorised relay for the "armed" and "primary" but go via an isolating keyswitch for testing. You don't explain what brand sensor you are using but I would have it drive a relay with the relay output connected to the "secondary". All of this stuff would have it's own 12v boxed supply and electrically isolated (galvanic) from the Texecom system.

Never on mobile but nothing seems broken yet ?

Even insurance with no idea specify "Redcare or equivalent"... They were the market leader years ago and priorities change, there wasn't much they could do with the product the downsides were part of it's design. Agile/Secure mitigated that for years. Without Redcare Classic they are no longer tied to doing security, to people higher up its probably easier to fold at this point. I think you underestimate how much encryption you use on a daily basis...

Really? Encryption is fundamental to any secure data that needs transmitting, this concept does back centuries to well before computers. Original Redcare was an amazing product back in the day, it would work over wet string, had continuous encrypted signalling and 30s polling with no data costs. Nothing will be able to copy it, it requires having the infrastructure. Obviously there were downsides to the product which will explain the wind down. Everyone is jumping on the massive strength of the Redcare brand to sell there new tat. The product name is known fairly well outside the industry.

It's not just 1 contact tho, it's 3... EOL will be wired different at the controls end. Assuming this is three single doors, convert your 6-core into a data line for an expander adjacent to the first door, take single cables from the expander to each door. Wire it however you want not sure if Orisec supports DP from an Exp. EOL would be better but you could have issues with stuffing 1/4W resistors in tiny old style contacts if your reusing them. Most would replace the contacts. Program panel accordingly. This has the benefits of:- single fault will only take out one door, you can isolate doors individually, you know which door has an alarm or fault without taking the lot to bits, your cable to the sheds is a data line instead of DP so it's tampered in a better way.

I just wouldn't, especially on a modern panel with more options. One zone per device, so you can diagnose any problems. Your sketch seems alright assuming it's DP, time to get the multimeter out take everything apart and work out what's going on.

Why not just use an unmanaged PoE switch at that money...

There is always something else to do...

Date code on the box seems to be Mid October '93 Don't know much about them.

Been given 2 of these, both new but tatty boxes Before I consider them as WEEE I thought I'd document them for the nerds here. Didn't find much info on them from searching.

They are not ideal but they don't really do a lot hence the cost. Shuffle the pins around but you'll get less speed and wattage

Most wired sirens are compatible with wired systems but keeping the same manufacturer means you are likely to have instructions for how to connect there own. Have you proved it's actually the siren at fault?

Tell me something I haven't been ranting about for years...

Having listened to the podcast already it's not related, images came from social media. It will take a defence lawyer to get the evidence thrown out on possible deepfake grounds, for change to happen. If you handle evidence properly with decent kit it shouldn't be an issue.

Don't believe stainless for cable tackers is a thing. Regular galv or painted white is all I have ever seen.

IXP is for third party kit. IProx can't be wireless so I don't see why keypad would be, also a wireless keypad will depend on what other wireless equipment you fit as to if you have capacity at the expander.

I'd be surprised a house with a flush keypad fitted would only need 3 sensors... If your having a company in it's no good recommending kit, they will use what they support. If you found somewhere reliable that supports Galaxy then less repair work. Usual recommendation is 3 quotes, go with the place that makes you feel the most comfortable NOT just the cheapest.