sixwheeledbeast

It's pretty unusual for the E/E time to be left at the default 10 seconds in most scenarios you always need longer. I would assume from this the system has crashed and lost it's memory, they are known for having NVM issues as they age and it will be getting on to at least 25 years old for even a later model. We don't know the service history of the system but most would recommend you consider upgrading the system for reliability. To change the timers in the meantime you would have to get access to the engineer mode via a engineering code and then input the 2 digit function for the timer you want to edit. Without this engineer code you will need to reset the NVM, which personally I wouldn't want to be messing with on these due to above. We don't provide engineering manuals or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

Still going to be a while yet, you have to migrate everyone on that exchange and the fibre isn't going to pull itself in. TBH I think most domestics would be happy to just get a reliable 80/20 FTTC connection as standard.

Isn't Vauxhall the equivalent of having a Paragon tho?...

Amusing your scraping the panel for something modern and higher end there are multiple ways to achieve this. Concerns come around the convenience versus security of the solution you use. Consider that if your device to open your door also unset the system too, how easily compromised the system is. Normally when designing systems where you E/E via garage I would want the system to set on garage door close but not completely unset on opening. Have some other action to confirm your switching the system off for example.

TS900 are pretty robust if installed correctly and serviced regularly. Still things don't last forever, I often find TS series panels overloaded with failing transformers. It's also common for the keypads to wear out to the point you need a hammer to press the buttons. You can try cleaning them and changing the code but at that point your delaying the inevitable. From memory you would need a 900+ panel for prox to work, so the only way on a 900 would be some third party setting device programed onto a zone, it's not worth the effort compared against an upgrade IMO.

Connect the bell to the strobe?... You'll get the bell ringing on a day mode tamper I would suggest find or make (relay etc) a suitable "-ve bell mimic" output Bit odd to have +ve trig default on modern stuff anyway tho...

Pretty rare for NiCD to bust like that without a dead short or overvoltage....

Most decent hybrid panels will do this. Everyone has there own preferences.

I use Draytek stuff myself, it's all down to costs. You need it to be PoE?

I am all for keeping serviceable well maintained systems irrelevant of age. From the pictures I wouldn't be wasting time on that mess and want to be upgrading it. You can't expect a cheap domestic onboard panel to work in a dusty/dirty environment for very long. It also appears to have been lacking any maintenance with one of those batteries in and what's with the two woodscrews holding the transformer in...

Panic button pressed somewhere?

If you have no knowledge of it's service history replacing it for something modern would be the sensible option.

If it's been reset, do you know if the rest of the panel is programmed right? I have known them to not save some settings you program in when they are dying. Really wants replacing if you want it to be reliable.

Your panel will be the "Texecom/Menvier/Scantronic" setting "4K7/2K2" I expect

If it's got built in resistors they don't "sort automatically" but you set them from the instruction with jumpers. Manufacturers use different values for there kit so most PIR's have the options to cover them all.

1) Tamper terminals on PIR will be marked meter them and simulate closing the lid. 2) yep. All values should be monitored for a little while and be steady, although no guarantees on finding a very intermittent cable fault, chances point more towards the PIR but need to test these things.

I can't see a unit conforming for response without some controls.

Eaton? 76x with 726's

You could have everything on FE if you wanted although it's not advised. Bear in mind the more you put on the entry route the less "instant" protection you have. Personally I always try to avoid having systems on timed exit but you have no option if you have no other way to terminate the setting procedure.

It's the wiring regs, covers any wiring up to LV. I don't think they aim to be vague they aim to be concise and clear. One issue I do have is all these standards are set for good practices and safety reasons, cost decent money to buy but they refer to so many other regs in each other you would be bankrupt if you bought everyone that is referenced.

Not a fan of those plug in app only setup mesh boxes. Like DIY alarms... More business end but most Draytek AP's are mesh, the new 802 is pretty compact and has a LAN port. I still say for the OP a half decent wired AP somewhere central will probably do it. Boosters are only as good as they get, garbage in garbage out.

Equipment like tools and access. It's all well having the manual but it may as well be in another language if you don't understand the terminologies used in the industry. Information like software and installer manuals are mostly trade only, you may find copies about the net but no guarantees. As JW it can also be debatable about insurance validity if you maintain your own system, that's if they require a system for insurance.

I would expect there would be some type of detection device programmed on 13 but you may not know about it for some reason. Have you installed this yourself? It wouldn't be an expander or PSU on Texe they have separate fault text.

Yep I second that, it's the knowledge of how to maintain the system (annual checks, batteries, testing and programming). Then also consider what you do if something unforeseen goes wrong with it, often happens at the least convenient time when you can't get help. Do you have the equipment to access all the components at that time. A well maintained system would rarely cause you an issue tho . Maybe call some local companies and explain your situation if your uncertain, if they support Visonic they maybe flexible and work with what you have although most would prefer to only support there own kit so they offer you the best QoS.

As I understand it they are moving towards cabling being at least LSZH and not allowing plastic containment to be used in the next amendment of BS7671. Not only due to failing of containment/fixings during a fire but due to toxic fumes and poor vision when trying to escape. I mention this for those using YT2 galv support clips. I think there is still room for innovation in fire proof fixings for all surfaces, unfortunately cheapest options always win.