sixwheeledbeast

You would need ADT or some alarm installer to default it. They would then be able to access installer mode and delete devices, this is not a customer function. While some electricians do alarms it's considered a separate trade if you do need to find someone. Any fault beeps will happen when the system is unset for 4 hours, then 4 hours after any user interaction. Assuming the system is programmed correctly and you can "home" arm the system that would stop the beeping in the evening/night time. Powering the system down would require getting up some ladders to the external sounder (assuming it has one) as this would activate.

Yep If you have just switched ISP that would be the logical start. Websafe has been a common source of complains for random apps and services not working, not sure about your device particularly tho. I wouldn't use any ISP provided router tat myself especially if I was hosting services but generally people aren't bothered if it works I suppose... iOS 14.3 was released mid December if that helps.

It's pretty unusual for the E/E time to be left at the default 10 seconds in most scenarios you always need longer. I would assume from this the system has crashed and lost it's memory, they are known for having NVM issues as they age and it will be getting on to at least 25 years old for even a later model. We don't know the service history of the system but most would recommend you consider upgrading the system for reliability. To change the timers in the meantime you would have to get access to the engineer mode via a engineering code and then input the 2 digit function for the timer you want to edit. Without this engineer code you will need to reset the NVM, which personally I wouldn't want to be messing with on these due to above. We don't provide engineering manuals or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

Still going to be a while yet, you have to migrate everyone on that exchange and the fibre isn't going to pull itself in. TBH I think most domestics would be happy to just get a reliable 80/20 FTTC connection as standard.

Isn't Vauxhall the equivalent of having a Paragon tho?...

Amusing your scraping the panel for something modern and higher end there are multiple ways to achieve this. Concerns come around the convenience versus security of the solution you use. Consider that if your device to open your door also unset the system too, how easily compromised the system is. Normally when designing systems where you E/E via garage I would want the system to set on garage door close but not completely unset on opening. Have some other action to confirm your switching the system off for example.

TS900 are pretty robust if installed correctly and serviced regularly. Still things don't last forever, I often find TS series panels overloaded with failing transformers. It's also common for the keypads to wear out to the point you need a hammer to press the buttons. You can try cleaning them and changing the code but at that point your delaying the inevitable. From memory you would need a 900+ panel for prox to work, so the only way on a 900 would be some third party setting device programed onto a zone, it's not worth the effort compared against an upgrade IMO.

Connect the bell to the strobe?... You'll get the bell ringing on a day mode tamper I would suggest find or make (relay etc) a suitable "-ve bell mimic" output Bit odd to have +ve trig default on modern stuff anyway tho...

Pretty rare for NiCD to bust like that without a dead short or overvoltage....

Most decent hybrid panels will do this. Everyone has there own preferences.

I use Draytek stuff myself, it's all down to costs. You need it to be PoE?

I am all for keeping serviceable well maintained systems irrelevant of age. From the pictures I wouldn't be wasting time on that mess and want to be upgrading it. You can't expect a cheap domestic onboard panel to work in a dusty/dirty environment for very long. It also appears to have been lacking any maintenance with one of those batteries in and what's with the two woodscrews holding the transformer in...

Panic button pressed somewhere?

If you have no knowledge of it's service history replacing it for something modern would be the sensible option.

If it's been reset, do you know if the rest of the panel is programmed right? I have known them to not save some settings you program in when they are dying. Really wants replacing if you want it to be reliable.

Your panel will be the "Texecom/Menvier/Scantronic" setting "4K7/2K2" I expect

If it's got built in resistors they don't "sort automatically" but you set them from the instruction with jumpers. Manufacturers use different values for there kit so most PIR's have the options to cover them all.

1) Tamper terminals on PIR will be marked meter them and simulate closing the lid. 2) yep. All values should be monitored for a little while and be steady, although no guarantees on finding a very intermittent cable fault, chances point more towards the PIR but need to test these things.

I can't see a unit conforming for response without some controls.

Eaton? 76x with 726's

You could have everything on FE if you wanted although it's not advised. Bear in mind the more you put on the entry route the less "instant" protection you have. Personally I always try to avoid having systems on timed exit but you have no option if you have no other way to terminate the setting procedure.

It's the wiring regs, covers any wiring up to LV. I don't think they aim to be vague they aim to be concise and clear. One issue I do have is all these standards are set for good practices and safety reasons, cost decent money to buy but they refer to so many other regs in each other you would be bankrupt if you bought everyone that is referenced.

Not a fan of those plug in app only setup mesh boxes. Like DIY alarms... More business end but most Draytek AP's are mesh, the new 802 is pretty compact and has a LAN port. I still say for the OP a half decent wired AP somewhere central will probably do it. Boosters are only as good as they get, garbage in garbage out.

Equipment like tools and access. It's all well having the manual but it may as well be in another language if you don't understand the terminologies used in the industry. Information like software and installer manuals are mostly trade only, you may find copies about the net but no guarantees. As JW it can also be debatable about insurance validity if you maintain your own system, that's if they require a system for insurance.

I would expect there would be some type of detection device programmed on 13 but you may not know about it for some reason. Have you installed this yourself? It wouldn't be an expander or PSU on Texe they have separate fault text.