sixwheeledbeast

Nope it's replace everything or find ADT versions. They gave you what you asked for I suppose, you have paid for them to check over the programming, change the codes and hand over the system, also maybe set up PowerManager to this TP? For most companies focus is on the product as a whole, (i.e. a full working system) this is how it's sold. The components and compatibilities between them are engineering questions, unlikely to be a topic of conversation when talking contracts. To add insult to injury, Visonic are part of Tyco group so buying non ADT branded Visonic would be the "final cash grab", if you want to phrase it like that.

Anti-clockwise twisting with left but right handed, I do the same but without the OCD...

Maybe a spit gun but not staples...

A switch with an access point is possibly the term your looking for. Or maybe just an access point plugged into the current switch. Every site is different when it comes to WiFi signal, so many variables to work with. In a standard house the router is often in the worst place for WiFi signal due where the master socket is. Often disabling the WiFi at the router and having a decent wired access point in a central location best solution with minimal kit cost.

That would indicate to me that it was unreliable or had an issue and they just killed all the internal sounders and left it. I suppose you will have to see.

Maybe the keypad or cabling to the keypad is faulty? To power down the system you will have to deal with the bellbox hold-off, this will run for 15-20 minutes every time it looses power or has a trigger (the bell itself controls this time). If your competent it maybe time to consider upgrading the controls while your messing out diagnosing what is broken. Bellbox batteries are generally not worth replacing just replace. Being cheap you may find it's just the keypad but probably just kicking the can down the road if something else fails, hard to say without looking at the overall condition.

All these tampers should be in series, colours don't mean much they just mean you can identify them at both ends not what they terminate into, investigation and a multimeter is the answer. Find all the tamper pairs check them all individually, after you find and fix whatever is open, make sure they are all in series. Will only clear with lid closed too. If it's out of your depth maybe consider having an engineer look at it, most would recommend upgrading to something more modern without a global tamper.

It's a Pre-2K Veritas the programming options are very different to modern ones. Part set was option 02 IIRC. Seems like it may have lost all it's memory which is more concerning, has it been serviced and had replacement batteries in that time? We don't provide manuals, codes or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

You were posting help for Scantronic systems less than 24 hours ago... hmm

I would expect something like right click properties and then find the update drivers option? Would suggest it's best to let Windows do it if you can, especially as it seems to know it need updating.

Most likely it's down to the COM port selected, try different combination of physical ports and COM port until you get a connection? Setup > Modem > PC-COM If it's the fancy newish black lead I would expect the FTDI driver to install automatically on first connection, but I don't really play much with Windows.

Seems I was right. Something clearly doesn't add up here, good luck with whatever this thread was suppose to achieve.

I don't like this attitude, condescending to rule out everybody else's opinion as childish because it doesn't align with your opinions. Maybe your not but it comes across that way. Remember most trade contributors have decades of experience screwing boxes of electronics to walls with some effort of providing security and detection. If this is the type of answer you are looking for then it's a different topic of conversation about the industry as a whole, it's a massive bag of worms difficult to put in one post... You contradict yourself in the same post, your not in the industry but they replied to your support ticket. I'm not surprised BTW. I don't think any company can truly ignore a request for support it just looks bad, this is where they have to strike some balance and were installers would prefer they at least had priority. It's always been the same anyone can get hold of any kit, I don't feel you can withhold basic support in this instance. Just like with any other products not in the industry. The issue is you can't teach someone how to fit a "pro" alarm system via a support ticket or a forum, engineers have had years of training or apprenticeships to understand how it all fits together and apply it. This is were prosumer or DIY falls apart IMO, it's not just about the product it's about the knowledge and application of it. The "pro" gear has also had years of tweaks, specifically for the UK market to make it adaptable for every installation and engineers are trained and get support on it. You can't condense years of installer knowledge on security into a prosumer product or make a DIY install manual. The grading thing your asking about is sort of irrelevant for this instance, you can only fit a graded system as a company. It's the whole fitted system that "becomes graded", the component parts of the system have to conform but the system is graded as a whole. So outside of the industry it means very little unless you understand what each grade means and have knowledge of each standard that parts correspond to. We also have different variations on top of the EN standard in the UK too, we refer back to BS4743 and then we have BS8243 as some examples. The other points Al alluded to is who tested the kit conformed? Has it had third party testing for the UK market? At best it's unproven along side established products. The UK market is very different and why I believe lot of this "tat" is pitched as prosumer/DIY were I could see a company fitting it in the rest of the EU. It's also pointless to try and break into a market that has plenty of options with a new product that does similar to what your engineers are trained on. Also any product could claim it's two way but only have one component two way (cough, powermax tat) this is where marketing comes in. Unless you understand how this type of kit functions in a activation, what the spec sheet or marketing says means very little.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-54903754 I am sure a new manual will fix it, every DIYer reads the manual, right?

Sorry don't get excited, I don't recall working on one either, but just a word of caution I suppose. You have to consider it's a life safety system, its one thing fumbling though programming on intruder worst case in most instances if something was wrong would be a fail to operate and possibly damage or stolen items, not advised but it's not life. It depends on if you are just providing operational checks or if your expected to repair faults and re-commissioning, you would only need Level 2 access for the former. I know you didn't put yourself in this position when sales want to takeover any old tat but it is worth mentioning to them it's kit that none of the engineers know how to use properly, if something needs adjusting. Your right not everyone knows everything about every piece of kit but this is why companies have a list of preferred kit, try to stick to it and train there engineers on it. Leaves less to go wrong.

Yep agreed would use motion for adaptable framerate but not for alarms. There is more to video motion detection than just area masking too,

It would be best to keep "discussions" on topic, however this thread has started to go rogue already... AJAX more expensive DIY tat with a posh website and consumer marketing waffle. People will buy anything if its got a shiny app for it. Only PSU or external standby battery options, meaning your relying on a hidden nokia sized lithium battery in a power cut seems "secure"

I rate the Bosch ones but still I would only retro them, best to design the system for pets with perimeter kit from the start. Use programming to adapt the system and omit sensors not use sensors that are designed to detect less.

Considered an enhancement to be in Firefox 84

Your saying people with years of experience on the topic are missing the point...? Nothing is going to stop a determined burglar but that doesn't mean Ring isn't expensive DIY consumer focused tat.

I am not saying to omit the PIR's completely just that I wouldn't consider pet ones.

if you have perimeter protection then you would be best programming the system around pets, pet sensors can have mixed results and with starting from design stage you are better not using them. i normally look for sealed optics generally fitting Optex but other brands like Bosch have sealed quads. Buying from ebay isn't ideal if you have no idea what your testing for, although if you have the panel wire it all up, program and bench test it first. Don't rate the light up external sounders but with the main manufacturers they are more chosen on aesthetics and branding for installers really.

That's the most worrying thing yes it can be an external source, it could in theory be a legit site that has loaded a bad advert via a third party. Safaris WebRTC support is limited so this is where the "scanning" of the local network was required, I read it that the timing attack would be done on any browser if WebRTC didn't give out the IP. The exploit needs to know the browsing computers private IP to start the attack and make it look like a SIP request to trigger ALG. This timing attack method takes time so I would expect to see a delay in website/pages loading. If successful it would provide access to anything on that subnet behind the firewall, beyond that it would depend on what's on the subset that can be accessed from that PC. I see what you mean, if things could be done in the browsers this would roll out to people pretty quickly. Disabling settings in the router or any patching/upgrading firmware is very unlikely to be done by the average person and take while to get released. I would say for now disabling ALG if you don't need it would be sensible tho.

It's not necessarily just a browser issue, as I understand it javascript via a browser is just an easier way to execute it. In summary it finds the internal IP of the browsing computer via WebRTC. If WebRTC is not available a TCP timing attack is performed to detect valid subnets trying to establish the machines internal IP. Used in conjunction with "an abuse of the TURN authentication mechanism causing IP packets to overflow" a valid SIP registration connection is requested. The SIP connection request tricks ALG in the router to open a requested port for the attacker to exploit further. The router will now forward any port requested by the attacker who now has access via the compromised PC. A simple solution would be to disable Javascript on your browser but so much of the web uses scripts this wouldn't be viable for most. Disabling WebRTC from within your browser would be one way to limit your private IP being broadcast to the internet but this exploit employs other methods to try and establish this information. Disabling ALG on your router (normally under NAT) for example should stop it completely, however you may have issues with routing SIP connections or other services that require ALG like RTSP. It may also be possible that ALG implementation in affected routers be patched somehow, the proof of concept was on a Netgear R7000 not sure if testing has been done on every brand, something to keep an eye on. According to the developer:-