sixwheeledbeast

You would only install multiple devices on one zone where you have no other option, situations like protecting a double door or roller shutter with two contacts. Having them on separate zones would mean you could have a confirmed alarm from one action which is not permitted for police calling.

This guy https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/43399-texecom-nvm-locked-panel/

Anything in the engineers menu would need the code and knowledge of how to set it up, this code would need resetting. As per our guidelines we do not provide defaulting or engineering manuals here.

"power burning, heating up relay"? A pull up resistor would dissipate the wattage across it as heat. Either way I think we are getting off topic you can test this with a meter it wouldn't need a load. If it's not switching then it's either not programmed correctly or blown. The reason it's common practice for installers use relays is for separation with any auxiliary device.

If you've never had it serviced in 20 years then standby batteries will be bust (hopefully not leaked acid all over the insides) and possibly damaged to the charging circuit. All you need is a power cut and you have no system. Maybe a good idea to have it looked at if you value it's purpose. Don't be surprised if recommended an upgrade or find something is bust, even if it appears to be setting fine.

That is correct it's something the installer would program for you, assuming a third setting can be done. Do you have an issue getting hold of your current maintainer? I assume you have it serviced regularly by someone.

As per our guidelines we don't provide that information here. i can only suggest you try codes you may think it could be. If the system is misbehaving due to a power outage then something is wrong with it and it's in need of a service visit, they will be able to reset the code for you at the same time.

Good practice on any radio tat IMO.

There is loads of options for what it does, pulse, toggle, pressing the star on the fobs, all in the "Define Outputs" settings. It maybe set to disabled? +ve applied IIRC but will not supply much current, as they are not designed for supplying power to much.

Don't fit Enforcer but there will be some "access" or "walk through" setting for entry pirs. There shouldn't be any concern with false alarms if so it's not fit for purpose.

If your going by the regs:- 50mm separation between all ELV and LV cabling. "Additional insulation should be provided" if they need to cross over each other, preferably perpendicular to minimise any interference. Seems a fair bit of mess for one alarm cable? Would have looked at going upwards or if really required a thin chase into the cove, disappears with cork.

It should just be the case of replacing all the electronic bits and no rewire if the wiring is fine. The cause of the tamper alarm would need to be diagnosed before, but it maybe something simple or that would be replaced anyway. Although from the pictures it doesn't look the most professional of installs so I'd highlight "should" there.

I have known old passives to have there tamper switch go faulty if they get knocked a little.

We are talking of Vista gear in the era just after Baxall went under and they were chopping between multiple OEMs. As far as I am aware those things where pretty expensive and from a Japanese OEM back in the day? It's not a speeddome it's "metal mickey" thing. I agree it's not worth fitting tho, you have no PTZ control and the resolution will be terrible (540TVL?) so without tels images will be near useless. As I say you'll get an easier and better install with your average modern turret or eyeball, unless you want it as a collectors piece.

Pretty rare thing even in their day. Your going to need some DVR that can support it's tels for it to be any use to you even if you plan on being fixed view. Likely easier getting a small eyeball or turret than messing about, although it's probably got some deterrent factor about it. The wires will likely be voltage, 485 tels and a bunch of alarm/preset inputs, which you have probably worked out but I don't have any pinout reference for them to say 100%.

It depends what colour wires the installer used there is no standard. You have also likely blown a fuse. If your struggling to copy the "colours" from my post above your probably better getting someone in. Is the kitchen fitter paying?

NC/C == Alarm T/T == Tamper

You have lost some network devices, you will have to confirm them again in said menu. If you don't know why they are missing don't just confirm it because you may disable whatever modules and therefore detection that are missing.

There all potted and only can have the magnet in one place so I suppose easier to design?

Testing with a DMM with resistors in place is not going show useful values IMO. Resistors wrong way round you should be finding with normal walk testing as part of the other commissioning procedures. Likelyhood of this is much lower with built in resistors becoming pretty standard. Staple through a cable would fault on EOL and if DP the value wouldn't seem correct for the cable length and again you would be closed or tampered so would find that on a walk test. When everything was DP having the devices contact resistance was useful but with EOL and built in its pointless for reference in the future.

Resistance readings are pointless if your not testing only the pair without resistors. Double pole you would check through the sensor too but the values mean nothing if your measuring through EOL's. What would be the point of having you meter calibrated if your taking reading from the panel. Who says the panel is accurate or will be accurate in the future.

It depends if you have a procedure of locking panels, there is no loss of hours it's systemic as you to maintenance. It just means you have more codes for your engineers to remember which inherently means they are often written down somewhere. Unique codes or POTD is a better option, could be accessible via company login as I outlined above. If all of your customers have the same code and that is shared via some Facebook group or whatever, how can you say that any of your systems haven't been messed with between visits. The only reason it's any less of an exploit is you have to be onsite at the keypad to program most panels at the moment, if this was online security you'd have lost control of your whole estate in 10 minutes.

I don't think that thread is suitable for reference being a different panel. If you have a Premier 24 then you will be fine replacing it with the same keypad. It's been a very long time since they where supplied without the hard plastic covering as I said in the thread you linked. You will need to replace the backplate but the fixing holes will be the same. Should ideally be in "Confirm Devices" when replacing/changing network components. Has the system been serviced in that time? There are batteries that need periodic replacement and other checks you would normally be advised to do annually.

You can disable keyfob panic IIRC

You have the engineers and user codes the wrong way round I'd guess.