sixwheeledbeast

It's an old Bentley Alpha 2/4 probably been in service for 40 years or more. "Know anything" is a bit too open ended question really.

Replacing a 2 Zone Bentley (ok in it's day) for a relatively budget G4 panel seems a bit of a downgrade. Decent panels would have give you EOL options. Years ago cable was relatively expensive so you often had situations where only the cable with cores required was used in each run. 6core to a PIR then 4core from there to a door and the like. Could also be what they had in the van to get it working, or some dodgy repair, who knows. Really it just needs those zones re-cabling instead of messing IMO,

Depends some do some don't. Your not going to be able to power it from some DIY Ring alarm thing so you'd have to cobble some flasher circuit together either way.

Some old LCD Gardtec not work bothering with?

Building work would be a good time to get cables in, you are the only person that can say what your priorities are. Speaking with your chosen installer about your plans, they can work something out for you.

The system is a Honeywell Domonial by the sounds of it. I don't know much about them (maybe discontinued now?) You should find an installer you are comfortable with to look at your system, if you don't like the quote ADT gave you. Personally I wouldn't support it and would recommend an upgrade, especially if it's never had any regular maintenance since it's been fitted.

Comfort LED yes

It's just for aesthetics really, often awkward and messy to wire and need cable down the middle of the window for ideal positioning. If it would look tidy or not retrofit would maybe wire.

Nope, use the Texecom Impaq ones unless I have to use proper Vipers for replacement (aesthetics/latch line etc) Mostly wireless shocks now if customer needs perimeter.

Sometimes the comfort light can stop if they haven't been triggered in a while, pretty normal for Vipers.

They flash red all the time with comfort on, latch line is solid light

You would only install multiple devices on one zone where you have no other option, situations like protecting a double door or roller shutter with two contacts. Having them on separate zones would mean you could have a confirmed alarm from one action which is not permitted for police calling.

This guy https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/43399-texecom-nvm-locked-panel/

Anything in the engineers menu would need the code and knowledge of how to set it up, this code would need resetting. As per our guidelines we do not provide defaulting or engineering manuals here.

"power burning, heating up relay"? A pull up resistor would dissipate the wattage across it as heat. Either way I think we are getting off topic you can test this with a meter it wouldn't need a load. If it's not switching then it's either not programmed correctly or blown. The reason it's common practice for installers use relays is for separation with any auxiliary device.

If you've never had it serviced in 20 years then standby batteries will be bust (hopefully not leaked acid all over the insides) and possibly damaged to the charging circuit. All you need is a power cut and you have no system. Maybe a good idea to have it looked at if you value it's purpose. Don't be surprised if recommended an upgrade or find something is bust, even if it appears to be setting fine.

That is correct it's something the installer would program for you, assuming a third setting can be done. Do you have an issue getting hold of your current maintainer? I assume you have it serviced regularly by someone.

As per our guidelines we don't provide that information here. i can only suggest you try codes you may think it could be. If the system is misbehaving due to a power outage then something is wrong with it and it's in need of a service visit, they will be able to reset the code for you at the same time.

Good practice on any radio tat IMO.

There is loads of options for what it does, pulse, toggle, pressing the star on the fobs, all in the "Define Outputs" settings. It maybe set to disabled? +ve applied IIRC but will not supply much current, as they are not designed for supplying power to much.

Don't fit Enforcer but there will be some "access" or "walk through" setting for entry pirs. There shouldn't be any concern with false alarms if so it's not fit for purpose.

If your going by the regs:- 50mm separation between all ELV and LV cabling. "Additional insulation should be provided" if they need to cross over each other, preferably perpendicular to minimise any interference. Seems a fair bit of mess for one alarm cable? Would have looked at going upwards or if really required a thin chase into the cove, disappears with cork.

It should just be the case of replacing all the electronic bits and no rewire if the wiring is fine. The cause of the tamper alarm would need to be diagnosed before, but it maybe something simple or that would be replaced anyway. Although from the pictures it doesn't look the most professional of installs so I'd highlight "should" there.

I have known old passives to have there tamper switch go faulty if they get knocked a little.

We are talking of Vista gear in the era just after Baxall went under and they were chopping between multiple OEMs. As far as I am aware those things where pretty expensive and from a Japanese OEM back in the day? It's not a speeddome it's "metal mickey" thing. I agree it's not worth fitting tho, you have no PTZ control and the resolution will be terrible (540TVL?) so without tels images will be near useless. As I say you'll get an easier and better install with your average modern turret or eyeball, unless you want it as a collectors piece.