sixwheeledbeast

All part of other companies, it's survival of the fittest in this game. Aritech = UTC Castle = Hik Menvier = Eaton

Or a friends fancy if-fone... :shrug: Ideally you would have an isolation point before anything electronic and with lighting you would have a switch, you wouldn't test without isolating bulbs electronics etc, much more awkward with sockets that are part of the installation itself over an accessory that can be isolated. I have started to see a few USB charging euro/combi plate modules on domestics sharing a double gang with data/phone, more expensive way to do it but keeps things separate from the main installation and you can isolate them without removing the outlets.

Scary thing is how much it's been raping your expensive smartphone circuitry and batteries while you haven't noticed.

Map7 on the zones would do the trick, now where did I park my DeLorean.... Sounds like a nice job to swap out with new controls and a smart PSU, split that detection the best way possible. You'd have a good base to start from then, with no weird 30 year old software glitches or NVM memory loss issues.

Remove zone from the PCB replace with a link and test the circuit with a multimeter in the meantime?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183993670048 There are others similar available but very useful to have one in your tool kit if your around these devices a lot, confirmed there accuracy with my multimeter initially. Say you have a house full of them and you have an intermittent issue on your power circuit, there is no way to have the circuit powered with no load and no easy way to do testing as a megger would blow them all up. It's an unlikely issue but you could add hours on to an electrical job disconnecting them all back to a standard installation before you even start looking for a wiring issue etc. To the OP you will find that the closer you get to the rated output (trying to charge 3 devices) the more the voltage will sag, meaning they will take longer to charge than they possibly would if you charged them individually..

I feel they have far too many issues to be worth it. A lot of them are shoehorned into the outlets free space with no thought on quality of the power supply. Even if they supply the correct voltages from new (a lot of the cheap ones don't) as it ages the voltage will creep up and will not last as long as the outlet would itself. There is a tiny amount of tolerance with USB voltage before batteries take a hit, cheap car chargers can be just as bad for this. Cheaper brands it can effect the IR of the device, some brands known to make the USB ports live in a failure of the PSU. On top of that there is also the issue you can't switch them off (from a safety or power POV) without doing so at the CU, lack of support for larger devices and/or smart charging. In short a bad idea IMO.

I am not keen on the USB built in sockets. You also have to be careful you don't overload them too, the rating on them is for both ports. I'd get a three output one thats on a plug top

It would not be advised to remove wires from the alarm system if you don't know what your doing. Removing power from the controls should normally trigger the alarms hold-off making the external alarm sound as if it where tampered with..

JB lid tamper? Have you tried with two links in the 4600 terminals?

Best to have a charger with a good amperage two outputs with two leads. Are we talking mains here or vehicle?

For anyone finding this post in the future taking the alarm apart and pulling the battery out is not the best idea at 4 in the morning, your just making things worse even if it's in alarm already.

I think JW thought all your latest posts where connected to the same question (XY problem). It's can lead you down the wrong path asking questions around the problem like this. No worries if that's not the case . I often find with a lot of these situations the lines between what the regulations say and what engineers have picked up gets blurred. Opinions on what is right, wrong and rough overshadow what the written text of the regulations you are fitting to say. Now don't get me wrong there are some things in the regs that you may interpret differently to someone else but they are the where it comes from so best from the horses mouth sometimes.

Mechanical protection doesn't relate to EN50131 that would be covered under BS7671 and all connection boxes must be tampered at any Grade above 1. Masking is obviously a Grade 3 requirement. All the standards are there but they are copyright protected you purchase them from the BSI website, your company should have a copy. The best you will get without reading the standards is the manufacturers quick guides that are about, I think the Castle one is in the Downloads section.

Nodoby raads the bit in the mibble

I would expect a 32GB card to work no problems. That is conveniently the max size Windows formats to FAT32 and the cut off for SDHC and SDXC. Beyond that if larger SDXC cards work I'd expect it to be fine upto 2Tb unless they have designed some weird size/file restriction into it.

I was assuming it was broken over a duff battery but yeah I have also replaced batteries on them in the past.

You'll have to keep an eye on places like ebay. The stuff is long discontinued especially 4600 Series with the DIP switches for programming. Most places would be looking to upgrade the system to something a bit more modern, with better two way comms.

I don't know the i-on but I would imagine most devices like that will be FAT

Maybe it's down to how transparent the company is on there downtime?

I was told it was a CENLEC/IEC thing and our wiring regs have changed over the years to incorporate that. It was only appliances that where harmonised so about being able to use the same processes across Europe I would imagine, before my time tho.

Assumed the original comment was about the new harmonised colours for mains. I also think they where daft at the time, mainly for turning a neutral colour into a line colour but it's done now and in line with all countries in and around Europe so can't really complain.

The idea behind switching the router off is to minimise the chance of push notification and recording data to cloud/disk, or in case they didn't find the NVR before being disturbed. Polling is where the alarm system, on a regular basis (ideally every minute or so) contacts a server (usually a monitoring company) to make sure the alarm messages are received. If the system was compromised either before or during a break in a message would be received at the server to say the site has "failed to respond" and you can be notified.

There's a surprise

We can't give you exact step by step instructions on how to disable your alarm. As a guide you would need to remove the external sounder first this will involve a ladder and some ear protection as you will trigger the sirens by doing so. Then you can remove the inside without disturbing the neighbours too much. You will also need some electrical knowledge on how to make the mains supply circuit safe before and after the main panel is removed. I would suggest if you are not comfortable working with tools at a height, being surprised by loud sirens or working with mains electrics to consider having an engineer out to decommission it. Out of interest is there a reason for it's removal?