sixwheeledbeast

That's how you would do it yes (I would do this as standard myself), they have a small internal speaker mounted behind the PCB but wired into terminals on the PCB. You need to find a suitable extension speaker and take an alarm cable from the controls to that location. Something like a CQR Alto 16Ohm Speaker would do.

Part set bell delay would likely be the option your looking for. Double knock is never a great idea, even more so with wireless when they may not activate again for a while.

I usually fit the Elites so GDB-0001 but if it's a quad then it's better than non-quad, which I would never fit. Beam Pair would be excessive IMO, but you could beam pair with the existing instead of buying two. Still think I wouldn't be throwing money at it until I have an idea what the issue is first.

You never know there maybe wireless interference but you have to start somewhere and you have no evidence of that. PIR's cannot detect through solid objects whereas the microwave part of a DT can. Your looking for something that could cause a sudden change in temperature of >5C within the 90 viewing angle of the passive.

Yer I wouldn't use any of the wireless kits apart from 0005 on the odd occasion it has most of what I need. Agree with above, looks like the most sensible position, I'd swap it with one from another room for now. If the fault reoccurs in the same room swap for a quad or possibly DT.

It's all down to what you consider the issues maybe the environment and the equipment. Being wireless you have less options kit wise. There's standard, quad and DT options we don't know what's fitted, or if it's just something simple you can diagnose from a quick inspection.

From what I remember the wording is along the lines of "non system operators should not be given any indication of coverage or status from the CIE or detection devices" There is a caveat that the user or engineer can activate these indications for testing but after 120s of leaving the test it returns back to off/banner message. This is mandatory at Grade 3 and recommended based on risk for Grade 2 IIRC.

Intermittent issues and things like this are where engineers earn there salt. Being experienced you generally have an instinct of what it maybe from the environment or system log and then you can use your tools to see if you can confirm this (multimeter tests, reproducing the issue etc) When it's down to placement problems you would minimise this at installation time, steel wouldn't be of a concern from a false activation POV but could reduce signal to the panel, you can check for this tho. As an installer coming out to the job if all the tests were inconclusive you would likely just swap it, as a return visit would cost more to the company then a passive and battery. Doing nothing would help no-one here. It's a different situation for yourself, I would be thinking about re-siting it with a new battery initially. Other tests you could do is to mask it off completely proving that it's not detecting something in the room or swapping it with another room. Plenty of options and things to try to pin it down, but what we would do is probably different.

Doesn't seem like a controls issue to me.

Tolerance of USB 5V is +0.25 nowhere near 7.4 It's a bit like those old scanny or optima panels you go to. It shouldn't be powering the passives and charging the battery at 14.8V, you know it's likely to let go at some point but couldnt say when, but the customer is happy its setting fine. I'll be down to the device how well it takes the overvoltage, but this would usually be given off as heat which isn't great for a lithium battery. These are the modules I am on about, they are rated for a 32A breaker. You would IR test a new installation with them dissed then connect them up, existing job you could IR @250 or dis them to test circuits @500.

All part of other companies, it's survival of the fittest in this game. Aritech = UTC Castle = Hik Menvier = Eaton

Or a friends fancy if-fone... :shrug: Ideally you would have an isolation point before anything electronic and with lighting you would have a switch, you wouldn't test without isolating bulbs electronics etc, much more awkward with sockets that are part of the installation itself over an accessory that can be isolated. I have started to see a few USB charging euro/combi plate modules on domestics sharing a double gang with data/phone, more expensive way to do it but keeps things separate from the main installation and you can isolate them without removing the outlets.

Scary thing is how much it's been raping your expensive smartphone circuitry and batteries while you haven't noticed.

Map7 on the zones would do the trick, now where did I park my DeLorean.... Sounds like a nice job to swap out with new controls and a smart PSU, split that detection the best way possible. You'd have a good base to start from then, with no weird 30 year old software glitches or NVM memory loss issues.

Remove zone from the PCB replace with a link and test the circuit with a multimeter in the meantime?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183993670048 There are others similar available but very useful to have one in your tool kit if your around these devices a lot, confirmed there accuracy with my multimeter initially. Say you have a house full of them and you have an intermittent issue on your power circuit, there is no way to have the circuit powered with no load and no easy way to do testing as a megger would blow them all up. It's an unlikely issue but you could add hours on to an electrical job disconnecting them all back to a standard installation before you even start looking for a wiring issue etc. To the OP you will find that the closer you get to the rated output (trying to charge 3 devices) the more the voltage will sag, meaning they will take longer to charge than they possibly would if you charged them individually..

I feel they have far too many issues to be worth it. A lot of them are shoehorned into the outlets free space with no thought on quality of the power supply. Even if they supply the correct voltages from new (a lot of the cheap ones don't) as it ages the voltage will creep up and will not last as long as the outlet would itself. There is a tiny amount of tolerance with USB voltage before batteries take a hit, cheap car chargers can be just as bad for this. Cheaper brands it can effect the IR of the device, some brands known to make the USB ports live in a failure of the PSU. On top of that there is also the issue you can't switch them off (from a safety or power POV) without doing so at the CU, lack of support for larger devices and/or smart charging. In short a bad idea IMO.

I am not keen on the USB built in sockets. You also have to be careful you don't overload them too, the rating on them is for both ports. I'd get a three output one thats on a plug top

It would not be advised to remove wires from the alarm system if you don't know what your doing. Removing power from the controls should normally trigger the alarms hold-off making the external alarm sound as if it where tampered with..

JB lid tamper? Have you tried with two links in the 4600 terminals?

Best to have a charger with a good amperage two outputs with two leads. Are we talking mains here or vehicle?

For anyone finding this post in the future taking the alarm apart and pulling the battery out is not the best idea at 4 in the morning, your just making things worse even if it's in alarm already.

I think JW thought all your latest posts where connected to the same question (XY problem). It's can lead you down the wrong path asking questions around the problem like this. No worries if that's not the case . I often find with a lot of these situations the lines between what the regulations say and what engineers have picked up gets blurred. Opinions on what is right, wrong and rough overshadow what the written text of the regulations you are fitting to say. Now don't get me wrong there are some things in the regs that you may interpret differently to someone else but they are the where it comes from so best from the horses mouth sometimes.

Mechanical protection doesn't relate to EN50131 that would be covered under BS7671 and all connection boxes must be tampered at any Grade above 1. Masking is obviously a Grade 3 requirement. All the standards are there but they are copyright protected you purchase them from the BSI website, your company should have a copy. The best you will get without reading the standards is the manufacturers quick guides that are about, I think the Castle one is in the Downloads section.

Nodoby raads the bit in the mibble