sixwheeledbeast

I would expect a 32GB card to work no problems. That is conveniently the max size Windows formats to FAT32 and the cut off for SDHC and SDXC. Beyond that if larger SDXC cards work I'd expect it to be fine upto 2Tb unless they have designed some weird size/file restriction into it.

I was assuming it was broken over a duff battery but yeah I have also replaced batteries on them in the past.

You'll have to keep an eye on places like ebay. The stuff is long discontinued especially 4600 Series with the DIP switches for programming. Most places would be looking to upgrade the system to something a bit more modern, with better two way comms.

I don't know the i-on but I would imagine most devices like that will be FAT

Maybe it's down to how transparent the company is on there downtime?

I was told it was a CENLEC/IEC thing and our wiring regs have changed over the years to incorporate that. It was only appliances that where harmonised so about being able to use the same processes across Europe I would imagine, before my time tho.

Assumed the original comment was about the new harmonised colours for mains. I also think they where daft at the time, mainly for turning a neutral colour into a line colour but it's done now and in line with all countries in and around Europe so can't really complain.

The idea behind switching the router off is to minimise the chance of push notification and recording data to cloud/disk, or in case they didn't find the NVR before being disturbed. Polling is where the alarm system, on a regular basis (ideally every minute or so) contacts a server (usually a monitoring company) to make sure the alarm messages are received. If the system was compromised either before or during a break in a message would be received at the server to say the site has "failed to respond" and you can be notified.

There's a surprise

We can't give you exact step by step instructions on how to disable your alarm. As a guide you would need to remove the external sounder first this will involve a ladder and some ear protection as you will trigger the sirens by doing so. Then you can remove the inside without disturbing the neighbours too much. You will also need some electrical knowledge on how to make the mains supply circuit safe before and after the main panel is removed. I would suggest if you are not comfortable working with tools at a height, being surprised by loud sirens or working with mains electrics to consider having an engineer out to decommission it. Out of interest is there a reason for it's removal?

I don't know the Enforcer but even with two paths or a backup by using two modules it not going to help in a targeted attack without some polling functionality. You can have all the connections to off-site but if there is nothing checking they are functional they could be compromised without you knowing. Installers would install signalling units that have a polling feature if any path is down you would be told.

You should know by now there's always a silent P in Bath.

Where is Edinborough? Nice way to give the game away that your a southern tourist. I assume you mean Carlisle, Cumberland to me, all northern areas have there little shithole somewhere especially in and around the city.

Use right for all of the above, left hand is for holding on and swinging from the branches obviously.

Being right handed phone in the right makes more sense to me :shrug:

The crocs on IBTs are fine for faston connections but if your battery has threaded terminals then your suppose to use the "3532" clamps for more accurate readings. Maybe this is what he's referring to? There's a few threads in the trade forums talking about battery testing and what different people do Measuring float charging current wouldn't give you the full picture of battery condition. There is a possibility the unit needs calibrating if you've had it a while and it's consistently failing new-ish batteries.

On a similar note with the rise of keyless car theft crook locks and drive bollards are back in fashion, those keys would go with the house ones.

You threw the padlock key out the window? Re prox tags I have always recommended to have the tag on your car keys separate from your house ones. They have there pros and cons but they are mandatory for proper monitoring anyway

BNIB?

Most systems have options prox tags or an app, you don't need to have the keypad on show just on the entry route. It's possible to have a setup where it would be used only for programming or with UDL maybe none at all. They could also interface into whatever you want if within reason if you know what your doing, it just needs engineering its not plug and play like consumer pitched tat. The Texecom range of keypads are widely considered very good in aesthetics there's a massive range of them too, colours and finishes. Keypads are still a thing for the same reason remote controls are still a thing, they do there job efficiently and cost effectively with no compatibility issues. I can't see a pretty touch screen being any more useful, ideally interactions with these systems are minimal and programmed in a way to be simple for that customer. Smart is just a buzz word to push tat, I have yet to see any of these smart labelled things do anything "smart" for the user. As for the manufacturers they make there money tracking everything you do, very smart marketing and a different industry altogether... Security installers fit kit designed to the UK standards, doubt any of that "smart" stuff your thinking of could pass these or would hold up in a break in. I can't agree with your ugly, dumb and expensive comments either there's so much kit out there how could you have seen it all fitted professionally.

Rain on Friday night?

Why not run your own cables and get a small decent approved company to fit some decent kit? Not saying all companies would all be up for that or that they may want some disclaimer about existing cabling faults, but worth asking. Fitted a few DSC in the past for an integration job, specced by a HA company.... Uses an interface with a serial bus so the HA can see all the devices live, the rest was all done on the HA side. It was just weird foreign tat IMO nothing special. All these North American panels are just not designed for the UK market, they may work as an alarm but not conform and support will be limited from manufacturers and installers. JW listed most of the usual UK market panels, Galaxy Texecom Eaton etc. Have you actually decided if your DIYing or not because that's the first step really. Talking manufacturers is useless if your still thinking your getting someone in.

It's just some zone state detecting tat, sure I have seen other things do this cheaper maybe some raspberry Pi hack on thing. There's no reason you can't have a panel with enough outputs on zone mimic either.

I would agree with PJ the first question ask is if the system specificly requires monitoring for insurance or if it's just for keyholder only. There are no regs for sharing equipment so difficult to make both systems conform to each others. When it comes to cost it's a life safety system so if the RA says the fire needs comms then I wouldn't see sharing the intruder being an option to offer at all. Battery standby

They are for different markets there won't be an exact equivalent