sixwheeledbeast

Could be some part of the tamper circuit? Where does the other ends go?

I can't for whatever reason. You can attach images in the post if you need

So the alarm was/is maintained then? Seems odd to not know you had the firmware upgraded after you moved in (that FW is about 3 weeks old). I would probably drive a normal alarm sounder/speaker straight from the alarm. If it's a sounder best to to use the "Bell trig output" or an output programmed as "Bell (SAB)- Area type" Lighting would need to be a relay as you plan, you can use any output you like on any of the expanders or panel. Would be fine using "Alarm - Area Type" for this. It's all in the manual but you should find the right options from my post above.

I assume by earth you actually mean the black negative battery lead. Battery lead terminals on a Veritas are marked as BATT + and - I can't see your image so not sure if you are talking about something else.

What model Premier? What firmware? What current do you plan to pull from the output as there maybe other options depending what you are trying to do. Output programming should be as simple as finding the right output in System outputs and selecting your Area and Type (probably you want "Alarm") leaving the default attributes

Nope. It's probably not hard to access but it's not "public"

Just find it unusual, a lot of manufacturers try to distribute there firmware on a need to know basis, to make it harder to access. They are maybe concerned that someone could RE it and find some exploit, I am not saying it's a good or bad thing just unusual. I suppose exploits for IP devices are more what people are looking for, Hik took the method of obscuring there firmware files when they realised people where finding exploits.

Interesting that they have there firmware on a public FTP.

Even so the above still applies. Things like this need to be done in writing just to cover both parties. You wouldn't normally be allowed to modify any parts of a rented property as part of a TA. What happens if the alarm fails and is continually in alarm while the tenant is away for a few days. Who takes responsibility for the damage done when the local authority authorises forced entry to silence it? Currently you could it's the landlords responsibility but if you mess about with it then it would become yours.

Logan did you read any of the posts above? i understand your trying to be helpful but there is a much bigger picture you need to think about in real world situations. Ownership, liability and responsibility in this case for example.

If there is an existing wireless camera I can't believe that the tels wouldn't be sent over the wireless with the camera and the receiver have some connection for that. What use is a PTZ without tels?

It this a question or a statement? Just send tels up the coax.

iD system so if the old contact and biscuit have gone, you'll struggle to get it working. All the parts are obsolete and hard or expensive to find.

There are plenty of landlords that have a system for when the property has no tenant and wouldn't include it in the lease. I agree with above regarding getting written permission if you want to go that route, but expect to take on the responsibility of it including having it serviced annually, any repairs and faults etc.

You shouldn't play with it, get your landlord to sort it out.

PoE standard is 15w per port for PoE and 25w per port for PoE+ (Type 2)

Yes it is

You'd need an external power supply and use the EOL zone and output bit like a Powermax, been a while since I worked on one tho. They don't take the expander module from the 30, just a relay board.

Upto you on the aesthetics really, clips look terrible on render like that. Personally I'd be thinking white 20mm conduit female ends straight into vandal resistant domes. Drill through the corner for the back one. This is all if you can't do it from inside of course. I imagine if someone did it on cost, cable ties down the drain pipe lash it across the flat roof but you did say you came here for professional advice.

Larger PoE Devices maybe PoE+ aka Type 2 (25W) this means you may need an injector depending on your switch or NVR.

Most drives recommended operation temperature is 5 - 50 C, however the hotter they are the more likely you will get a failure. I wouldn't put anything like this in a loft you have the temperature changes but also dirt and dust being sucked into the machine. They are a server treat them like one.

External grade cable probably in some containment like tube if low level would be good practice if you need to run externally. Would normally try to keep the cables internal where possible, rarely needs "loads of holes" if your a pro and know what your doing. I don't see where you mention having the NVR in the loft but I do agree for the reasons above. These vague questions are tricky to answer really without seeing the job.

Usual protocol would be like any distribution system, numbered references for ports and/or cables and then a separate schedule. For security reasons this separate paper/spreadsheet schedule would only be available for the people that need it.

Ah, that's possibly the default now then. Wouldn't think it's that just make sure Guard Attribute isn't on. Yes, they filter DIY into another queue but you should get through to someone. Your unlikely to need the lead again so it's up to you if you want to bother. Option A is the simplest route, depends if it's critical to have the entrance area as instant alarm on full set, or if waiting for the timer to end is fine. If the Entry timer 2 can be kept short then it's probably not an issue.

You shouldn't need the Entry/Exit 2 Attribute on that zone as Guard Access. The report is that Guard Access would not function at all after you part set several times but would work correctly again after the next full arm. If it is definitely the issue your options are:- a) Do not use Guard Access Zone Type and use the Entry/Exit 1 or 2 Zone Type. Using E/E 2 only has the benefit of selecting a different entry/exit time to the full set. b) Purchase the kit required to update the firmware (flashing lead), contacting Texecom seeing if you can get a copy of the latest firmware to you and flashing it and hopefully not messing it up. c) Get someone in the know to do Option B d) Purchase and install a Smartcom which has the option to firmware upgrade via the app now I believe. e) See if where you sourced the kit from will help