sixwheeledbeast

DM was overpriced and look what happen to them for not innovating and trying to compete.

Especially ADI

High and low sensitivity in panel end and pulse count is per sensor, they are completely different things.

Nope on the PIR's

I wouldn't if you can avoid it, inertia things with 1/2AA batteries they're expensive for what they are too. In practice it's the right idea to go perimeter, just unfortunate the kit your working with.

You can lower the pulse count but you'll loose the pet friendly mode. Yes they are one way, so also sleep for a few minutes in normal operation mode. It's one way and pet friendly I wouldn't expect much guaranteed protection from it.

They're are not great pickup on the default settings and are useless outside the strict mounting height in the manual.

The intruder panel would control the heating from the systems set status not the beams. You can open a can of worms here, every installer would use different kit from different manufacturers to do the same job, difference is if you know how to install and program it. Most top end commercial panels are capable of controlling auxiliary kit if you know what your doing.

Security is about layers start from the core and work out. If the perimeter system fails to operate or false activates and cries wolf all the time your left with nothing for your investment (both time and money). You can buy all the "best kit in the world" and apply it wrong you'll still have a poor system.

I wouldn't class anything Hik "premium" myself. They don't sell/support proper Hik to end users so they can't aim to confuse end user, even if they change the model numbers all the time. Agree with above, there are so many mistakes to fall into with DIY CCTV, maybe have a look at some of the other CCTV threads here.

Ding! But I prefer beams over beans tho

Spotted your initial post but I wouldn't personally use hardly any of the kit you posted about. It also seems like a bit of an odd setup to be asking these questions. Sounds like some early warning system that may false alarm a lot, as above. I can help with the Optex beam question a little, the SL version comes with an extra external housing and has more power options (i.e you could wire power). Would say all the extra features would be unnecessary for domestic situation tho, they are both decent wireless beams with more than enough beam range for most domestic applications.

Box cameras are all designed to be standard fit to a box housing, assuming the heater functions and there's no corrosion on the housing no need to swap it. They have two types of lens mounting C and CS if you are reusing the lens.

Assuming everything else is fine it's just a simple but possibly awkward to get at box camera swap?

I am glad you found the forum useful, forums are generally for discussion on topics which you were a part of over your 10 posts. Multiple people in the trade answered your initial question within 1 hour during the weekend, which you would do well to find anywhere else. If you would like some over-opinionated social media bull, lecturing, false information or useless memes, feel free to ask your questions on twitter or facebook in the future.

There maybe a clause in the employers contract to waiver the work time regulations due to unforeseen circumstances where necessary by the company. Nationals would normally be flexible enough to allow at least part of the next day in lieu, smaller companies wouldn't normally have the resources. It shouldn't be us versus them when it comes to employers and employees, it's an unprecedented situation. Working together with everyone to find balance between making sure you all have a company to go back to and not breaking these regulations will benefit everyone.

Why have a working systems at all if you just consider them a deterrent? Nobody said anything about a fortress, but all about layers some things maybe simple. Security is a balance of cost over risk, not using what you have paid for to it's full potential is a waste of money while not fully decreasing your risk. At the end of the day it's your decision, but just consider the years of experience put behind the advice given above, people always seem to re-evaluate after the horse has bolted.

One thing I can guarantee is there are plenty of systems out there installed but never serviced, just waiting for a power outage to annoy other neighbours across the country. If your very unlucky, it doesn't stop and your away; expect the local authority to force entry and leave you a bill for silencing it on your behalf. In addition to above post, I know of issues where insurance would not pay out due to the customer being in the garden during a forced entry at the opposite side of the house while alarm not armed. They often prefer breaking in to occupied houses as they have knowledge of where you are, less chance of surprises.

Your alarm shouldn't sound outside if the power fails if it does there's something wrong with it, you can explain that to your neighbours too.

So I would say you should part set the system. There is no engineer "function code" to switch it off. As I say it's a basic panel, see the rest of my post above for options. The chime on mains fail is two upwards tones very similar to the chime sound. Systems would usually be recommended for full operation checks every 12 months.

It's a feature of the later Veritas versions, older versions without this I have known to completely drain the battery out, with nobody noticing if the mains is disconnected by accident or whatever. It won't beep if the system is set as above so you could set the system omitting all the zones (including 0) if you want to walk around the house. There is also a pot on the board to reduce advisory notes, not sure if this mains fail beep is considered "advisory" on an R8, but this will lower your entry exit notes too. Disconnecting the speaker isn't an option it's likely the only thing that will make a sound in a break in, hopefully the outside box works but that's a whole other question if it's not been maintained. It is a basic panel so expect to compromise, how often do you have a power cut to bother worrying about it is the question?

1 way all jammed up pretty normal as above

Risco being Risco? You could try a power cycle if you have the confidence to reprogram everything if it does wrong. Best option would be to get someone that knows Risco to sort it out.

No idea I remember a model with a small transformer inside you wired flex to em. PITA.

Panel will lockout if in tamper, you need to disconnect the PIR's panel end and close the tamper loop up then it should clear.