sixwheeledbeast

May just be a placeholder and the symbols don't represent the password length? Question is does it work.

They need to be in Areas A and B a bit like what you did in Zone Setup but in Keypad and User

Well the DVR is acting like an email client (so Outlook, Thunderbird etc) you don't (usually) need to mess with router settings for outbound traffic. You wouldn't port forward or DMZ a PC to send mail for example. Therefore I imagine your email provider has somehow changed how they accept your DVR's messages, this could be a list of things your password or server is incorrect or some new 2FA feature or a security settings or spam settings blocking a type of client. You'll have to break down the problem to find out where in the chain sending the email fails. Generally I wouldn't ever bother with emails from CCTV as it's unreliable and easy to defeat, more hassle than it's worth for the effort IMO.

Email host rejecting your SMTP requests? Some change at the host end like 2FA?

Keypad and user needs permissions to arm those areas. It's default setup to have separate keypads for separate areas.

Yes exactly and the red light is indicating that it's triggered too.

Find out why... You have a short on a cable or possibly some issue with some equipment.

No voltage on all the PIR's? They are poly fuses one maybe hot.

What model panel? Wired or wireless?

Zone Setup > Select Zone you want > Area Clear the (Area) A and replace with B using 1 and 2 keys. Repeat Areas may not be the best way to achieve what you want. Areas you should consider as separate self contained alarm systems controlled from one panel where as you may want part sets.

Zone Wiring is the menu option. I'd also recommend swapping them out if the PIR's are in decent condition, alternatively replacing the PIR's for something with built in ones if not.

Don't link zones out you program them out. 4k7 is the shunt resistance and 2k2 is the EOL resistance.

Hot is an understatement. Not a good idea to do that. Going to be a pain to replace as it's surface mount.

What's that got to do with the topic?

We don't see the international models much over here. Are you certain there was a component that came away from the board? There are often pads spare for all sorts of things, do you actually have a component that fell off. Meanwhile working out what is causing your "service alarm" from the log maybe useful. Normally the written phrase "service" on the screen would indicate a service timer, not to be confused with the service light which appears for a number of faults.

Your options come down to:- Carefully clean the keypad with some plastic cleaner (results may vary), I think they where an off white colour anyway from memory. Find a second hand one from the usual online places. Or the best option would be to upgrade your system, its no longer manufactured so support will be limited.

The alarm fairy must be downvoting your posts too.

You worked with pyro much then

How exactly?

You keep bringing that sideways callpoint up. OOI what would you have done if you had to swap the callpoint instead of ADT?

Mele Cow? ...

Any TS I suppose M series too.

Pub cellars, spirit rooms, stock rooms, detached garages, expensive artwork the list goes on... Also often put old school stuff like foil on glass and lace wire on 24 hour then you wouldn't get calls from customers at 16:55. Still yet to find a panel that does customer friendly 24hr Omit like a TS.

I believe the term from memory is all signs should be "adequately illuminated and recognisable". Consider signs will include more than fittings. This can be achieved in a number of ways, the easiest practice would be maintained fittings throughout a premises.

It's not the power supply current it's mainly the standby time. You would normally calculate current for alarm and quiescent condition for all of the kit and measure it as part of the design. i gave you the exact model number above. The SMPS is standard on all the metal cab Premier kit.