sixwheeledbeast

Zone Setup > Select Zone you want > Area Clear the (Area) A and replace with B using 1 and 2 keys. Repeat Areas may not be the best way to achieve what you want. Areas you should consider as separate self contained alarm systems controlled from one panel where as you may want part sets.

Zone Wiring is the menu option. I'd also recommend swapping them out if the PIR's are in decent condition, alternatively replacing the PIR's for something with built in ones if not.

Don't link zones out you program them out. 4k7 is the shunt resistance and 2k2 is the EOL resistance.

Hot is an understatement. Not a good idea to do that. Going to be a pain to replace as it's surface mount.

What's that got to do with the topic?

We don't see the international models much over here. Are you certain there was a component that came away from the board? There are often pads spare for all sorts of things, do you actually have a component that fell off. Meanwhile working out what is causing your "service alarm" from the log maybe useful. Normally the written phrase "service" on the screen would indicate a service timer, not to be confused with the service light which appears for a number of faults.

Your options come down to:- Carefully clean the keypad with some plastic cleaner (results may vary), I think they where an off white colour anyway from memory. Find a second hand one from the usual online places. Or the best option would be to upgrade your system, its no longer manufactured so support will be limited.

The alarm fairy must be downvoting your posts too.

You worked with pyro much then

How exactly?

You keep bringing that sideways callpoint up. OOI what would you have done if you had to swap the callpoint instead of ADT?

Mele Cow? ...

Any TS I suppose M series too.

Pub cellars, spirit rooms, stock rooms, detached garages, expensive artwork the list goes on... Also often put old school stuff like foil on glass and lace wire on 24 hour then you wouldn't get calls from customers at 16:55. Still yet to find a panel that does customer friendly 24hr Omit like a TS.

I believe the term from memory is all signs should be "adequately illuminated and recognisable". Consider signs will include more than fittings. This can be achieved in a number of ways, the easiest practice would be maintained fittings throughout a premises.

It's not the power supply current it's mainly the standby time. You would normally calculate current for alarm and quiescent condition for all of the kit and measure it as part of the design. i gave you the exact model number above. The SMPS is standard on all the metal cab Premier kit.

Panel and two expanders will most likely be over for two expanders. Would be thinking PSU200XP.

If you read the post and the quote again I think you'll find the content is different...

We do not allow posting of installation manuals as per our guidelines. It would not be normal for an end user to be given an installation manual. There is nothing in the installation manual you should require as an end user. "Working fine" is relative, it may seem to set and unset but you wouldn't know without it being serviced if the system would operate as designed.

I would start with checking the voltage and charging current from the battery leads, followed by general other voltages. 11v is too low so you either have a duff or flat battery or the panel is dragging the battery flat. Never been a fan of Risco stuff so if I found something was broken, I would be looking to replace. The keypad is unlikely to last much longer I'd imagine.

It's best to use humbug devices as a last resort. They are handy for locating the type of fault initially but if you can solve it in the field that's the best. As I say take the time to remove the cameras and add/test them, like I said in post above.

All models/years are capable, can put Discos to shame on some trails. Sisley was the 90s model, top of the range 4x4 version. Oh snap, the one above is missing the bullbars and has the more modern grill, but you get the idea.

24Vac supply may remove interference. This is often due to there design isolating a ground loop from via the PSU. Similar effect to isolating a ground loop via "humbug" loop isolation on the signal cable, just on the power side. You didn't mention much else about the installation either, UTP or coax, power supply locations, camera types and transmission type, any tests etc. Tearing like in your OP would always make me think ground loop, hence my post.

I wish

Pandakar Always liked the Panda.