sixwheeledbeast

Has it ever worked properly? New installation? I would guess it's only one lighting zone, therefore you only have the option to trigger all the lights. I'd be checking the PIR and input wiring from the sensors to rule out a duff controller if it's been in a while.

Good while ago but I recall a job where install lad purposely fitted panel TS700 IIRC at high level in the warehouse because the service lad that was from that area was a lazy feck...

This thread is over a decade old. Manuals are available both in this thread and in the Downloads section. I suggest you open a new thread in the public forums if you have an issue.

It's not worth installing Win10 on older hardware, the UX will be pants, if it even runs at all.

When a sounder is unsafe to access it's worth considering decommissioning/re-siting/replacing

Been Windows free for over a decade now. As long as it's been documented then it's up to the customer to upgrade for stuff in the field.

Maybe, that wasn't the question tho.

It's a NiMH pack inside the "high voltage" strobe case, which has large plastic tabs to open. Some are stuck with pads to the PCB, others are cable tied.

Last day of support for Windows 7 today, for anyone not aware. It's estimated 32% of the market share is still Windows 7. Very relevant here, I can imagine many engineers with older software working on Win7 https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-7-end-of-life-support-information

Looking at the logo it's fairly modern

Someone's anniversary?

A lot of DIY junk is one way, less to go wrong means a false sense of security and more positive reviews.

As I mentioned in my original post, everybody would use a different manufacturer for different reasons. As a DIYer your going to get limited support, no matter what product you get, many come without installation manuals as they are aimed at trade only. While we are all chipping in I'd fit an Elite 48 with whatever extra modules you need, in fact did exactly that last week 9800 for a PE48. The cab is 3inch taller and half inch wider, so fitted great over the hole in the plaster where the 9800 cab came out, if that's a concern. As for the wireless side, one way means the detectors spam a messages to the panel in the hope they are received. Two way each message is confirmed to be received between the detector and the panel. Texecom is mesh which is two way with the added benefit of messages can be send via other detectors.

I would assume the idea of having all the zone inputs is to control lighting based on occupancy. It doesn't specify say it supports EOL zones even tho it's electronically possible and looks like it's for the American market which have different types of system to us over here. The way I understand it the alarm panel would be redundant, would you want an alarm and keypad with no zones connected to it powered up, seems daft. RasPi is $35 and capable of doing OpenHAB, I am comparing like for like, over things like WW1 or SIA. The IP module that comes with the panel makes sense if you have that option but again I see this as an integration enabling product not a signalling one.

I don't see the point in that type of thing, if you know what you are doing with a decent panel you can mimic zone outputs. Also how well will it work with EOL circuits, what about battery backup? Anyone that way inclined would just use a RasPi piggybacked off the alarm

This type of question has been covered many times over the last few years. Have a look at some of the pinned topics in the DIY section, for starters. You firstly need to decide if you need an installer or if you are doing the job DIY,. Keep in mind an installer will have you up and running in about a day whereas DIY you may have months of trial and error it depends how much you value your time and your skillset. Hybrid panels are common, for which manufacturer everyone has a different opinion. As for your other functionality, I don't see a need in integration with smart speakers, bear in mind your system will only be as secure as it's weakest component. CCTV would normally be installed as a separate system for redundancy, however you can get systems that are intruder with camera but they will be limited in functionality and positioning.

Please don't post the same thing twice. I have moved it to the DIY section for you.

GalaxyGuy is the one to help you with SelfMon. It may just be that your port is closed as you say. Port forward instructions here ISP provided routers are generally junk

https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/y3mdvk/ring-fired-employees-abusing-video-data Interesting, Amazon reckon only 3 people have access to customers video data now. i would have expected it to be a lot more.

It's not a replacement if you have no idea if it's compatible

No spare that's the one for the cab and we are assuming it's the U clip/nut not the bolt/screw

If you fit a lot of Texecom speak with your rep they should be able to sort you out. If not they are called U clips, you will need to find the right size I think they are M5 from memory

If your going to crack a nerdy joke, at least get the punch line right.... /summon minecraft:zombie ~ ~ ~ {CustomName:'"veidy"'}

We don't know what the problem is so I don't see how cycling the power is useful at the moment. System could be maintained or panel could be engineer reset on tamper for example. Keypad locking is stored in the keypad so if it is this, removing the power would just put the system into alarm with a locked keypad you can't silence it with.

Its only for locked keypads not frozen ones. Keypad will beep and display KEYPAD LOCKED on any button press.