sixwheeledbeast

It's best to use humbug devices as a last resort. They are handy for locating the type of fault initially but if you can solve it in the field that's the best. As I say take the time to remove the cameras and add/test them, like I said in post above.

All models/years are capable, can put Discos to shame on some trails. Sisley was the 90s model, top of the range 4x4 version. Oh snap, the one above is missing the bullbars and has the more modern grill, but you get the idea.

24Vac supply may remove interference. This is often due to there design isolating a ground loop from via the PSU. Similar effect to isolating a ground loop via "humbug" loop isolation on the signal cable, just on the power side. You didn't mention much else about the installation either, UTP or coax, power supply locations, camera types and transmission type, any tests etc. Tearing like in your OP would always make me think ground loop, hence my post.

I wish

Pandakar Always liked the Panda.

It will need some investigation work to find out where the interference is getting on the system. From what you have said I would start looking for a ground loop initially, so a good start on commercial is things like the cameras mounted on metal surfaces. Ground loops are the type of thing that can effect multiple channels when there could only be one channel at fault so disconnect any with a fault until all is clear. Testing for AC in the mV range on the cable is another way to locate. Test and reconnect until you narrow it down.

Manager code should have an option to edit all codes. User code would only be able to edit there own.

It's all in the programming....

We do not give out defaulting information here. I can only suggest you get your "approved Risco installer" back. It would be unusual for a panel to get scrambled like that, even a Risco one. It's possible it may have been damage by a power surge.

Yes it's likely the system hasn't been serviced in a while and the standby battery is shot. Karizma is pretty old and obsolete they are also known to have issues with the NVM over time especially when they haven't been serviced. Also the detection is on a BUS (iD) wire configuration which is pretty uncommon. If you are doing a bit of work in the house and plan to use the alarm, it's worth considering the upgrade options.

If you go Texecom then use a Premier 24 Poly not an Excel

Getting back on topic... It's not good practice to run speaker circuits within the same cable as other circuits. I don't believe there is a rule for this apart from some manufacturers say you must not do it. Main concern in the wild is normally the other way, as in getting annoying data noise from bus devices out of your speaker.

I'd say new battery check the voltages, see how it goes but don't expect it to be reliable.

I think I could guess the code looking at the keypad... We don't provide defaulting codes or procedures here for security reasons. I would suggest you isolate all power then power up with a new battery then mains. Then make sure everything is back together and try and guess a few user codes you may have used, hopefully this will silence the tamper and allow a reset. It is possible this will trigger the external bell if you can't clear the fault so I'd want to have some ladders at the ready incase that goes rogue.

From what I know it is frequency they are all still 868, so a subtle change.

We don't allow defaulting information here. I can only suggest you ask the person you bought it from. Also do note that the ADT Visonic panels only accept ADT devices, they run on a slightly different frequency I believe.

I agree with above all too easy for the stuff to snap and create faults especially if it's been in a while.

Wouldn't fit anything that hasn't got sealed optics.

Better passives with resistors built in is an option too.

Sounds to me like there is still a tamper. Check the lid spring isn't missing and that it clicks when the lid is closed if that's the only thing that's been opened. All lights on normally means your in a menu waiting for a function and unrelated to the tamper fault while your in "day mode"

I'd say a call out would be considerable less time and money than the price to purchase a load of kit your not sure how to fit yet.

ADT dummy box more of a deterrent than a working system? If that was the case hardly anyone would fit a system. [Logan: ADT is whole different topic you can't compare a national to a local like that, start that topic somewhere else, please] Considering the knowledge you have shown about the components and operation (areas/zones) of the system and my experience giving advice here, you'll probably struggle to DIY. Minimum requirement will be batteries (probably replacing the bell at the same time) system checks with a multimeter (knowledge how to do these), walk test, beel test, operation checks etc etc. Even then you will have to hope the programming is to your liking, otherwise you'll have to learn how to program a system with limited access to manuals or the terminology in them. Someone that knows how to program a Menvier could likely recommission everything in less than an hour. Consider all this before you leap at the task of DIY, your playing with a safety system that could annoy your neighbours when you can't shut it up in the early hours, you've then lost some of your deterrent factor.

Doesn't have to be a sophisticated crook, bellbox attacks happen. All the components in a properly fitted system are designed to detect any tampering and sound an appropriate alarm.

TS series is pretty reliable if you don't need a hammer to operate the keys on the keypad yet. Power it up check all the voltages new battery see how you go. Maybe replace the bellbox as the battery could be busted (won't recharge)