sixwheeledbeast

Most modern panels have an access control type feature, maybe alright for the odd door but generally you would use a separate system you have redundancy then.

You don't need Wintex to program a Premier. In fact I can't think of any intruder you can't do from the keypad somehow.

No your good if you followed all the instructions. Other than that participate on the forum where possible, people who want to contribute positively to the forum doesn't go unnoticed

If you have followed all the instructions on the vetting page "Vetting" will get to it. It is the Christmas period so people are here less frequently. For future reference the thread is here. https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40034-forum-trade-application/

Should have it nailed if you do it fulltime for around 3 months

If you need further help than above

I think the Texecom manuals are pretty complete, you may have to read the full thing if you don't know what you are looking for. You don't explain what model system you have so, I can only give you generic advice. On panels that have keypad zones you would map the keypad zones to "zone numbers" preferably ones that are not possible to have on the system via Keypad Setup. Then program that zone number for your attributes in Zones. SmartCOM is one per site you need 2 of the 3 COM ports possible, generates a UUID and it overwrites the ARC profile itself when setup.

If your into messing about as a DIYer with Montex you can setup polling. It's a lot to setup and the polling server needs to be offsite to provide any functionality. It's still not a complete replacement for a professional monitored system, hence why you don't see it much.

GSM-Com - They have allsorts of features, you can remote control outputs and use Wintex/Montex with them too. I'd be surprised if the Menvier one is duff, PSTN dialler can get a surge up the line but otherwise it's pretty rare for this type of equipment to die. I'd maybe default it and check out if the SIM is ok, sim will die if PAYG and don't make outgoing calls in a while

Yep they where available Pre-Elite, just uses a COM Port and programs off the keypad.

Why not one of the Texecom modules designed for the Premier?

https://gizmodo.com/rings-security-woes-cause-some-tech-review-sites-to-rec-1840634944 I do fully agree that most of this will be user error and they are right to stand by there original reviews if they wish. It still doesn't mean I would trust a platform designed to have back doors in it, myself.

They have a photocell built in but it's optional you can roll the pot off.

Can't beat a LX402 short range IMO. JW has had a few gunked up indoor HKC passives outside on test IIRC, if your the one getting the false alarms and your not expecting any warranty then whatever.

Tamper Ring as above it activates the bell trigger if the bell tamper is opened it's a Gardtec thing. Most systems would let the SAB deal with self activating which is the same as off.

It's a different attack surface hosting a service versus browsing the internet. When you plug these things in you are essentially hosting a server but they wouldn't sell them if the user had to do all the administration required.

https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/epg4xm/amazon-ring-camera-security Much of the same Hik only improved security in retrospect it's the same thing just in consumer land.

I'd be looking at the 232 convertor too. Sometimes they just don't work transparently enough.

At least replacing the battery may stop the beeping even if the thing does alarm then lock out and become unusable.

https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/carolinehaskins1/data-leak-exposes-personal-data-over-3000-ring-camera-users

Well if the main panel, keypad and bellbox all powered down at the same time the system hasn't been serviced in a long time. Best to leave it powered down and get it looked at when the mains is restored. I'd probably be looking at replacing the bellbox and probably the controls.

it won't reset with the tamper open

Tamper still open then?

They're not expensive new.

Some tamper switch faulty or open I would assume. Is everything back together properly?