sixwheeledbeast

The cabs are similar and got refreshed while on the original version. The date sticker has been removed... sus. I assume the green sticker says 8.xx ? One Network with OP 4/5 = 88 What label?

It's a Premier 88, not Elite. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/control-panels-all-c-36_102_41/texecom-premier-elite-88-control-panel-p-369.html Don't buy junk from ebay...

They are usually panhead self tappers, if I were to guess a size 6ga 1/2" ? The lid screw presses against a tamper lever which must be closed for the system to clear. Even if you put it back together correctly, it's also possible the system requires an engineer reset due to the tamper fault; even tho it maybe out of contract with ADT.

We do not provide defaulting or manuals here as per our guidelines. It's possible it's decommissioned for a reason, they aren't designed to be just switched off and on from the fuse and just work. Best to have an installer recommission it, but expect them to recommend an upgrade.

No!!

I think the point is you can get bad copies of anything on Amazon, Ebay or the like. They need to be disposable reputable batteries to be confident it's a device issue.

Are they disposable batteries? I have had Scantronic contacts flatten batteries in 9-10 months regularly but never as little as 6.

Well defaulting the panel will mean you need to reprogram everything from scratch so I'd start there... Maybe concentrate on removing what you did and getting it working again if your not sure? Wired incorrectly is likely for Zone 9 but you don't say what they are wired into.

I mention this to customers they rarely remember until they call to say it's not working... It's the same for any equipment that serves your services to the internet. CCTV is another example. Just copying the SSID and Password doesn't always work for all equipment, the cipher type maybe different on the new router so you can have issues. Best to remove the device and reinstall.

You don't mention much about the system, I'm assuming it's a Texecom Elite with a Smartcom and that it's connected with Wifi. If so and you have replaced the router as per what the ISP have said then yes it's very likely a new router will require the Smartcom reconfiguring. If the system was setup with wired Ethernet it should remove this issue. Sounds like you also need a new installer if unreliable, the app is tied to the installer they are not end user serviceable. Although suddenly and 6 months in the same sentence seems odd...

There isn't one, C&K is long obsolete. Panel and keypad required.

What happened before it started sounding? Data cable or something on the network is likely damaged causing the keypad to lock out. Would need investigating further, there is no magic off switch.

Maybe consider the spec, I know it seems easy to throw stuff where it is now. As much as you may wish to DIY, correct placement and design could see significant savings with better and more usable footage.

It will only record in analogue resolutions even if converted, not recommended. Some machines are "hybrid" so you map IP's to the channels, this usually requires PoE elsewhere and detecting cams from the WAN. Just replace the lot with new Samsung. Seems a shame to get rid of a decent DVR but if 960H isn't good enough now (new cams?), you need to start again.

Not much you can do as an end user if you don't know the code. Removing the mains should have made it run on batteries and then trigger the outside siren if it's completely dead. If not of that happened then something is broken. Alarms need servicing regularly this may not have been done and other things maybe faulty. Either leave it powered down or call an alarm company/engineer to service and reset everything.

There is more to a siren than it's backlight...

I actually would say they are well designed even tho I don't use that model. Anything with a backlight will die eventually and at least the led strip is removable/replaceable.

I have fitted a few systems with HA integration of varying degrees. Most of the time if they had no HA the alarm could to what they wanted anyway.

I know my point being, disconnecting the cameras is an issue or disconnecting the network could be an issue; I don't see them as suitable options. It's all down to the kit, I know some kit would completely fail setup like this. If the switch doesn't come up you have no video. Your then relying on the intruder I'd assume. A normal ARC CCTV system would be self contained and have alarms per camera themselves. This seems like video confirmation but your covering areas outside the intruder... Possibly a bit pointless all this ARC CCTV stuff in the way it's implemented to get police response anyway? Anyway hard to say as we don't know the full details of the systems but removing power from equipment is never a reliable solution. You have no way to prove the equipment is up or will come up when you need it. I don't worry but I have concerns and to my best to protect my security and privacy but everyone is different. Many seem to be happy telling everyone what amazing meal they're having on holiday via social media...

Depends on the kit... If the system is still recording they'll need to have playback access anyway to check on alarms. Disconnecting cameras would trigger video loss alarms, if the system is missing if they check on it they may think there is a fault. Your also adding a single point of failure to the system. The most sensible solution would be a privacy mask on the cameras triggered by I/O.

ECS is required for site work and most contracting. It's not training tho NSI/SSAIB are company approval, you can't have this as an individual. Tavcom courses for training but people are suggesting you get your CV into local companies.

If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.

It could be anything as above. From my experience with them they can FA if they get bounced on the floor by accident. I assume these are new and you haven't dropped them at any point? Isolate the circuit from the device to prove the controls and wiring, then swap the working with the suspect to rule out the device.

To expand on above. Most likely the interference reed is picking up the magnet because of how it's mounted. Not every door frame lends itself to having hassle free G3... Does the site need Grade 3? If not don't use it. If a Grade 3 system have the interference reed trigger a fault not tamper to rule out an intermittent tamper issue. Probably just millimetres off being in the sweet spot, if the instructions have been followed exactly.

Chance of panel being duff is low. I'd have defaulted and isolated things at the time. With only engineers keypad on, if it's still the same then consider panel or firmware.