sixwheeledbeast

Or her boyfriend Peter File...

https://twitter.com/Jessica_Holley/status/1204505193003573250 If you don't want to jump through all the WP GDPR gates.

Even if setup with a unique password. Ring have been sharing images and location data to US police forces. They have even been offering doorbell versions free if you agree to submit all data directly to the local force.

It's just a Galaxy. Honeywell are a conglomerate that buy up names and asset strip them.

I would suggest you contact the installer or a local company and have the system serviced. No point changing the code if you don't know if everything works. There are also parts that need maintenance, voltage checks and replacement batteries.

All the advise above regarding positioning seems very sensible hard to say from not seeing the property. Yes it is true that Risco doesn't get a lot of love from many installers here and you are correct that everyone had there preferred hardware, there are many reasons that contribute for this, every company is different. Generally I would say that Risco is like Marmite. Some places it's all they fit. I personally avoid the stuff, they can be a headache to program, missing some features for me and contacting Risco directly for parts which can be an issue if urgent. One positive with the Risco gear is they use the same batteries throughout, although this does mean chunky contacts as above. I personally lean towards fitting hybrid systems with a wired bellbox and wire as much as I can but again this is just a preference. As a end user you should consider the alarm as a service not a product, the system will need maintenance. You need to be comfortable with the company, the product should be less of a consideration in this scenario. Asking a company to fit something else will only lead to a headache they may not be trained on it for example. I would say the general advise here is get at least 3 quotes, consider all there points and go with the company you feel most comfortable with, not just the cheapest. If you are still most comfortable with the company above then it's the right way forward for you.

Is a katana considered reasonable force now?... To stop this thread from straying of the topic any more ... either option will probably do the job you want. Engineers fit what they know to be reliable, everyone will recommend a different manufacturer so we cant choose one for you. Your alarm is an important purchase so cost should be a lower factor in your decision. You will pay more in the long run if it's unreliable. Good ratter?

Well all the Texecom Premier stuff is hybrid so supports wired and wireless anything, if that helps. I would have thought Pyronix would be cheaper but I suppose it's depends if you get what you want from a Texe kit.

Same here 3m tall modular IR beams, good kit worked in dense fog and frost.

Some sort of factory reset button or hardware switches on the back to change output? It's Floureon it's a pile of junk that none of the trade members here would use or know much about.

As far as I was aware it is possible with it's own ACU using the "intruder outputs". Having the access arm the system without some user action is not going to conform tho.

Most likely they have had a broadband issue since your last visit, star wiring is considered an issue that contributes to interference on the line and poor internet speeds. Generally when this comes to alarms it's because the line has been taken from a spur/star before the line reaches the master socket NTE5. This was never an issue years ago and line engineers would happily spur a line, so it maybe nothing to do with your connection but further within the phone extensions wiring. You will have to work out the layout of the phone lines and where they come from, then how to make sure everything is supplied from the master socket and filtered correctly. This will also depends on which type of master socket you have and the layout of the wiring. If you don't want to get involved, best to tell the customer you need a compatible block terminal fitted adjacent the alarm panel.

If the mesh is borked you can get a loading/waiting animation indefinitely.

Well yes i suppose I took it as not starting the exit timer at all. The OP needs to expand to help any further.

I hope you have PSU's on the system too and it's not all running off the panel. If all the zones are closed i see no reason why the system shouldn't set. Parts set are pretty straight forward you need to get the system arming first.

Anything that is connected to the internet has a risk. As engineers we do our best to keep things secure and hope that the manufacturers have made secure ways to deploy them. People expect to be able to plug anything in with no care for if it will be exploited down the line, no software updates or maintenance. I would actually agree with Logan and say that I wouldn't want a security system connected to the internet. Especially considering what people call "smart" at the moment, isn't what it's cracked up to be.

Unless it's one of those cheap 1 way ones with supervision switched off.

Yep and cranking the sensitivity to maximum would just create false alarms.

Security systems need bespoke design, there is so much to think about it's an important part of the job when you get someone in to assess the risk of the property. There is only so much advice you can give without seeing the site. General rule of thumb from what you have said above, you need to protect all rooms on the ground floor plus any higher risk upstairs rooms. If you have pets, any room they are in while you need the alarm set would be best to have perimeter protection over motion detection, this makes appropriate coverage more expensive. Contacts will only operate if the fixture it's mounted to is opened as intended.

Similar they mostly sell as kit's anyway.

Made no sense to have so many products that do the same thing. 64W made sense IMO.

I'd use an Elite 64-W LIVE with either prox tags or smartkeys myself but I imagine everyone has there own preferred equipment.

Wrong on so many levels