sixwheeledbeast

You can't just spec a system from a list like that. Everyone would recommend different solutions and manufacturers anyway so you wouldn't be able to compare.

Engineers App is "installer" only. Anyone can download the normal free apps even if you have a panel or not. Other manufacturers have subscription models which need you to go through an installer.

Any maintained system will be more reliable than a non-maintained system, but that wasn't the original question. I fully agree that a DIYer can spend weeks or months doing something that an installer can do in 1/2 day but clearly the OP has done this before so is willing to take a punt.

Not really 99% of them end up in the bin. If your an installer your expected to already have a copy or know the system well enough. Depending on what system model your fitting the Ricochet expander maybe best in the loft and I would wire the keypads.

I don't believe much has changed since you fitted your last system other than the panels don't come with installation instructions any more. The COM-WiFi is discontinued but it has been replaced with the Smart-COM which has a bit more functionality and slightly more polished app. I am not one for apps but consider even without the app you should end up with something more reliable, secure and still supported going forward. If the system you have now is unreliable and you felt competent enough to fit your last system then you have nothing to loose IMO. Replace all the electronic bits, test any wires and reuse if they are in good condition. Loft isn't normally the best place for a control panel, but I suppose it just means you will need to be replacing the battery a little more often.

Option 12 to 2 Option 22 to 1 Clear the panel down to day mode. Use the Part button to test it works

You can program systems to do whatever you need but the best solution is using the part set. The correct term for Texecom panels is "Guard Access" or "Inhibited Entry". You will need to reprogram the Part set function for Zone 2 to be Entry/Exit and the full set for Zone 2 to be Inhibited Entry

I suppose they are talking about the HKC Quantum

I think this article covers many of the issues with DIY rubbish. From what I can tell it would be advised to seek a professional, just from looking at your list of "think I needs".

I have used Elmdene stainless ones on listed buildings in the past. Anything white plastic would normally stand out. If the issue is aesthetics then it would be down to you to decide on the definition of "a little more discrete".

If it's in a position that is or has become inaccessible safely with ladders I always recommend a new bell in a repositioned location. It's then on the customer if it where to go wrong at 3am and you can't access it safely.

Yale is a DIY product they are not going to provide you with options you get what you get in the kit.

So it's a fairly small system which makes sense. You have to consider it's your security and safety that you are purchasing so cost should be down the order of priorities when choosing a company. The servers to push the notifications obviously cost money to run. Different manufacturers have different ways to cover this cost, some cover it with the kit price others are subscription. I am just pointing out that many customers have a false sense of security that push apps are like monitoring which is not the case. Not a problem, do let us know how you get on.

As you say it's still entry level so don't expect the world. It is likely more reliable than the Visonic which I believe is discontinued now anyway. I have known some Visonic systems to be "reliable" but the failure rates on some of the siren models where terrible, this is why I asked about the model number. £500 seems on the low side I imagine there is only a small quantity of kit required. Either way a security company should know what there doing and will provide support for the product going forward. Watch those app costs and bear in mind it's only push notification so not polled (in a none technical term it's only as reliable as the internet connection it's hooked to). I don't care for apps myself but many find them handy.

Ody 1, 2 and 3 have small plastic bits that can fatigue and break after being in the sun. Would suggest Ody 4 or 5 if you go Texecom.

What model siren? Are the batteries you where sent faulty? Date is manufacture date AFAIK, you would need to meter them. It's possible the siren is faulty you can normally prove this by deleting the siren from the system and then they won't learn back on again. You could also have an issue where the siren is out of range of the controls, you could try removing it from the wall outside and try to resolve next to the panel. They are not the best of things and when fitted by a spark they normally fit and run leaving you with the battery issues. Best to seek an alarm installer. It's most likely fixable but if you can't fix it yourself I'd say your probably wasting your money getting someone to fix it, pull it out and get something reliable that's 2 way radio.

Texecom have "Dual Code" Attribute on users.

Solid cored cable can snap/fatigue over time. Terminals are more than big enough for all the powered devices you'd need on the Texecom stuff, in fact I would say they are better than most other panels for that. I have no idea why zones are linked out with a 1/2W resistor, best to be programmed out.

Flat external siren battery. Alarms need maintenance, wireless alarms need batteries. Unlock paddock on keyfob will silence for 4 hours or if you home set it the default setting will not beep.

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SMK keypad can bend the backplate slightly if the wall is uneven. It's intentional that the tolerance is close the idea is if the keypad is pulled from the wall the metal will bend at the mounting point. A repair washer on the tamper fixing screw is the best remedy, alternatively give the tamper leaf a tweak but you can do this too far which will bend it back on itself if your not careful.

I can't see an issue for integration with an access system for example, as long as the last person out confirms the arming procedure.

Doesn't conform as far as I am aware.

Sounds like they are both addressed to keypad 1 so i would be amazed if any keypad works correctly. I don't think the time updates if the keypad has power saving switched on but they don't normally come with this on. You need go to Engineer Utils > Confirm Devices. Then go set keypad 1 as BCD 1 (on off off off) and then keypad 2 as BCD 2 (off on off off). After this the display will update to having two keypads and confirm this with enter twice. by enter I mean Yes

"white dish"