sixwheeledbeast

Is a katana considered reasonable force now?... To stop this thread from straying of the topic any more ... either option will probably do the job you want. Engineers fit what they know to be reliable, everyone will recommend a different manufacturer so we cant choose one for you. Your alarm is an important purchase so cost should be a lower factor in your decision. You will pay more in the long run if it's unreliable. Good ratter?

Well all the Texecom Premier stuff is hybrid so supports wired and wireless anything, if that helps. I would have thought Pyronix would be cheaper but I suppose it's depends if you get what you want from a Texe kit.

Same here 3m tall modular IR beams, good kit worked in dense fog and frost.

Some sort of factory reset button or hardware switches on the back to change output? It's Floureon it's a pile of junk that none of the trade members here would use or know much about.

As far as I was aware it is possible with it's own ACU using the "intruder outputs". Having the access arm the system without some user action is not going to conform tho.

Most likely they have had a broadband issue since your last visit, star wiring is considered an issue that contributes to interference on the line and poor internet speeds. Generally when this comes to alarms it's because the line has been taken from a spur/star before the line reaches the master socket NTE5. This was never an issue years ago and line engineers would happily spur a line, so it maybe nothing to do with your connection but further within the phone extensions wiring. You will have to work out the layout of the phone lines and where they come from, then how to make sure everything is supplied from the master socket and filtered correctly. This will also depends on which type of master socket you have and the layout of the wiring. If you don't want to get involved, best to tell the customer you need a compatible block terminal fitted adjacent the alarm panel.

If the mesh is borked you can get a loading/waiting animation indefinitely.

Well yes i suppose I took it as not starting the exit timer at all. The OP needs to expand to help any further.

I hope you have PSU's on the system too and it's not all running off the panel. If all the zones are closed i see no reason why the system shouldn't set. Parts set are pretty straight forward you need to get the system arming first.

Anything that is connected to the internet has a risk. As engineers we do our best to keep things secure and hope that the manufacturers have made secure ways to deploy them. People expect to be able to plug anything in with no care for if it will be exploited down the line, no software updates or maintenance. I would actually agree with Logan and say that I wouldn't want a security system connected to the internet. Especially considering what people call "smart" at the moment, isn't what it's cracked up to be.

Unless it's one of those cheap 1 way ones with supervision switched off.

Yep and cranking the sensitivity to maximum would just create false alarms.

Security systems need bespoke design, there is so much to think about it's an important part of the job when you get someone in to assess the risk of the property. There is only so much advice you can give without seeing the site. General rule of thumb from what you have said above, you need to protect all rooms on the ground floor plus any higher risk upstairs rooms. If you have pets, any room they are in while you need the alarm set would be best to have perimeter protection over motion detection, this makes appropriate coverage more expensive. Contacts will only operate if the fixture it's mounted to is opened as intended.

Similar they mostly sell as kit's anyway.

Made no sense to have so many products that do the same thing. 64W made sense IMO.

I'd use an Elite 64-W LIVE with either prox tags or smartkeys myself but I imagine everyone has there own preferred equipment.

Wrong on so many levels

Considering the mix up just with just your speaker, I would think twice about DIY. Unless your willing to take the risk of many hours/weeks learning on the job and no guarantee of a working alarm at the end of it. Words of caution if you do DIY:- External bell strobe unit has very high voltage, this and having to disconnect a sounding box on the wall up a ladder is not the most pleasant experience when you have no idea what you are doing. Be careful. Obviously the control box has mains voltage in best to isolate if your not good with electrics.

Yep common misconception that power cuts should make the external alarm activate. It actually means the system hasn't been serviced and isn't working correctly.

No knowledge on positioning, images are poor. Interesting how the image is inverted, I'd say that's intentional. As for the others it's a shame people seem proud of poor workmanship.

The fixed root password has been leaked on Sannce kit, give it a month or so and it will fuel the botnets.

The cost of basic CCTV is:- Your privacy - basic systems are likely to be hacked or have known exploits, have no maintenance or software updates going forward. Your internet - hacked systems generally become part of a botnet where they use all your bandwidth and grind your internet speed to nothing. Your electricity - Fancy mining bitcoins for someone else? Even if your system isn't exploited to mine bitcoins, what use is basic when you need to use it in evidence. Your time - it's likely DIY or basic CCTV will fail and have no support. Your money - you could have put that towards something that would be useful in an event. Many people have gone basic and regretted it after an event. I'd expect 4 cameras to be at least 1k if it's anything upto a spec worth fitting.

Metal Grade 3 edition, not what I was expecting from thread above...

The government website there is just a summary, nothing is vague it's all in the legislation.

Non illuminated bells are fine as they are small enough to be permitted under the town and planning act. Illuminated bells have no permission like this they are all included no matter the size.