sixwheeledbeast

You do realise that you will need to apply for planning permission if you have a signwritten illuminated box. Unless your in some sort of closed private communal area where it is not in public viewing. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/advertisements If you are not planning on having a company maintain your system and will DIY going forward I would suggest you either:- Leave it blank as it's not worth the hassle and offers no extra security in this instance. Apply for planning permission for your lightbox sign, before looking around for second hand boxes or just inserts on selling sites.

If you don't mind the terminal strip floating around yer.

There's not much to it, you either send it back and have to wait and pay again or... a) remove all the electronics from both cases and swap them over b) snip all the black wires on the new unit close to the PCB, remove PCB fit and wire the terminal blocks like in the original.

It will not work using a sounder where you need a speaker and the casing is the same. On that one you could even reuse the speaker as they are the same impedance.

If you want you can reuse the old electronics in the new casing, it's likely not worth the cost to send back and replace for the right model. Just be careful you don't break anything when swapping the insides over.

You have a Soint loudspeaker and have purchased a Soint sounder. It there a reason for replacing it?

I agree but maybe handy if you service UPS's

Sounds like the tamper switch has gone faulty in the bell. I think you need to consider bringing this new system forward if you can. You will most likely end up disconnecting it from the panel and breaking it off the wall. Just disconnecting it from the panel will trigger it, best case 15 minutes of sounding worse case until the battery dies.

That's the stuff but it's all stuffed in a bigger universal grey cab so that the router and other cabling can all terminate in there.

Last few new builds I have been on have all been FTTP, plastic cab in the toilet at high level.

I have no idea who is to blame here obviously we can't see the issue so it's impossible to call. It's possible he didn't like the confrontation so intentionally wound you up. Maybe keeping out the way unless you where needed was the "path of least resistance" (pun intended) Either way it wouldn't surprise me that Openreach would blame anyone but themselves for a fault or have minimal electrical knowledge most reactive calls in these industries have been made plug and play.

The door contact is most likely still active when the system comes to arm, this is what is causing your "arm fail". I can tell you now it's something your maintainer will need to resolve, it's not going to be something you can fix. "Area in Exit A" Would indicate that you are arming the system and no zones are currently active. "Zone 10 Active" Would mean the alarm believes the door is open. Normally these type of things happen when the mesh network is not happy, this could be an array of things. First thing I can think of if this is an entry route door, I have had an issue once where when a door had a poor signal security the message to the panel had a little bit of delay. This was due to the message passing through poor signalling hops, increasing the settle time a bit cleared this up completely. That was a pretty large old house tho. Another option is that the contact is set to the wrong radio mode for whatever reason, unlikely unless someone has messed with the default settings. If I was coming to this without knowing the system and found nothing obvious like above, I would recommend to fresh start all the radio equipment and possibly replace the radio expander. This would resolve it if the engineer makes sure it's commissioned correctly and the signal security is good on all devices. In reality it probably doesn't all that work but it's belt and braces so to speak. I would say you either have poor signal in that area for whatever reason or the system is unstable as not commissioned correctly, They are the most likely causes. It can be difficult to pin down these intermittent issues, no doubt on the day an engineer turns up you can't reproduce it. It would also appear that you haven't got system faults setup via the RedCare (It's probably a "Redcare Secure" unit using pins), I would ask about this if you don't know why you are not receiving fault messages. I would normally expect a police calling system to have keyholder only response on "system faults" and "system tampers", that way if someone is tampering with your system you are notified.

Panel speaker is programmed for Area A only OOTB

They're waiting in the safe room with a shotgun

Was it fitted inside, it hardly looks used?

I would probably start by proving the headset by swapping them over, then maybe check the wiring if the fault follows location not equipment.

The issue with diallers is they often take a hit when the phone line has a surge. You can normally tell an SD1 is faulty when it misbehaves or looses it's memory while you program it. I wouldn't say the SD1 has a higher failure rate to any others I have seen. It does sound more like a line issue or the acknowledgment type is programmed wrong.

You can't just spec a system from a list like that. Everyone would recommend different solutions and manufacturers anyway so you wouldn't be able to compare.

Engineers App is "installer" only. Anyone can download the normal free apps even if you have a panel or not. Other manufacturers have subscription models which need you to go through an installer.

Any maintained system will be more reliable than a non-maintained system, but that wasn't the original question. I fully agree that a DIYer can spend weeks or months doing something that an installer can do in 1/2 day but clearly the OP has done this before so is willing to take a punt.

Not really 99% of them end up in the bin. If your an installer your expected to already have a copy or know the system well enough. Depending on what system model your fitting the Ricochet expander maybe best in the loft and I would wire the keypads.

I don't believe much has changed since you fitted your last system other than the panels don't come with installation instructions any more. The COM-WiFi is discontinued but it has been replaced with the Smart-COM which has a bit more functionality and slightly more polished app. I am not one for apps but consider even without the app you should end up with something more reliable, secure and still supported going forward. If the system you have now is unreliable and you felt competent enough to fit your last system then you have nothing to loose IMO. Replace all the electronic bits, test any wires and reuse if they are in good condition. Loft isn't normally the best place for a control panel, but I suppose it just means you will need to be replacing the battery a little more often.

Option 12 to 2 Option 22 to 1 Clear the panel down to day mode. Use the Part button to test it works

You can program systems to do whatever you need but the best solution is using the part set. The correct term for Texecom panels is "Guard Access" or "Inhibited Entry". You will need to reprogram the Part set function for Zone 2 to be Entry/Exit and the full set for Zone 2 to be Inhibited Entry

I suppose they are talking about the HKC Quantum