sixwheeledbeast

As you say it's still entry level so don't expect the world. It is likely more reliable than the Visonic which I believe is discontinued now anyway. I have known some Visonic systems to be "reliable" but the failure rates on some of the siren models where terrible, this is why I asked about the model number. £500 seems on the low side I imagine there is only a small quantity of kit required. Either way a security company should know what there doing and will provide support for the product going forward. Watch those app costs and bear in mind it's only push notification so not polled (in a none technical term it's only as reliable as the internet connection it's hooked to). I don't care for apps myself but many find them handy.

Ody 1, 2 and 3 have small plastic bits that can fatigue and break after being in the sun. Would suggest Ody 4 or 5 if you go Texecom.

What model siren? Are the batteries you where sent faulty? Date is manufacture date AFAIK, you would need to meter them. It's possible the siren is faulty you can normally prove this by deleting the siren from the system and then they won't learn back on again. You could also have an issue where the siren is out of range of the controls, you could try removing it from the wall outside and try to resolve next to the panel. They are not the best of things and when fitted by a spark they normally fit and run leaving you with the battery issues. Best to seek an alarm installer. It's most likely fixable but if you can't fix it yourself I'd say your probably wasting your money getting someone to fix it, pull it out and get something reliable that's 2 way radio.

Texecom have "Dual Code" Attribute on users.

Solid cored cable can snap/fatigue over time. Terminals are more than big enough for all the powered devices you'd need on the Texecom stuff, in fact I would say they are better than most other panels for that. I have no idea why zones are linked out with a 1/2W resistor, best to be programmed out.

Flat external siren battery. Alarms need maintenance, wireless alarms need batteries. Unlock paddock on keyfob will silence for 4 hours or if you home set it the default setting will not beep.

Article https://www.comparitech.com/vpn-privacy/the-worlds-most-surveilled-cities/ Spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bKBFiVXNzrgtW95j66Tpcj2OYmL-Gj-mKxvVvEN8aI8

SMK keypad can bend the backplate slightly if the wall is uneven. It's intentional that the tolerance is close the idea is if the keypad is pulled from the wall the metal will bend at the mounting point. A repair washer on the tamper fixing screw is the best remedy, alternatively give the tamper leaf a tweak but you can do this too far which will bend it back on itself if your not careful.

I can't see an issue for integration with an access system for example, as long as the last person out confirms the arming procedure.

Doesn't conform as far as I am aware.

Sounds like they are both addressed to keypad 1 so i would be amazed if any keypad works correctly. I don't think the time updates if the keypad has power saving switched on but they don't normally come with this on. You need go to Engineer Utils > Confirm Devices. Then go set keypad 1 as BCD 1 (on off off off) and then keypad 2 as BCD 2 (off on off off). After this the display will update to having two keypads and confirm this with enter twice. by enter I mean Yes

"white dish"

Duvet is "down" in French ... The duvet was originally from Scandinavia, when the shop Habitat bought them over to the UK late 60's they where sold as "Continental Quilts". So an English name for copying something "foreign", it may catch on...

Yes we'll just call them duvets like normal people.

One issue would be the bandwidth of your network when it comes to planning out a system. If the scene is the same size then 2MP vs 4MP is double the data, double the pixel density but also double the bandwidth on your network. You can imagine how this increases exponentially as you increase camera res. It can be useful for a better image if you need to zoom in on recorded footage when looking at an incident. This all depends on what the coverage is tho, many instances a 2MP is more than enough pixel density to cover the scene so that it out ways the bandwidth and cost of the cameras. As for the monitor aspect of the question (pun intended), you need to consider if the output will support higher resolutions. You can also have issues with aspect ratio if the camera image is becoming stretched on the screen the image will look less clear even at a higher res. Monitors are sold by there graphics display resolution and ratio whereas cameras are most often sold as megapixel which is a different measurement.

Have you made sure you have clipped the detector front in fully? If it has built in resistors are they disabled? Is zone 11 mapped to something? Is there a reason why zone 10's COM is in the Zone 11's one?

Aico Ei650i if you can afford the extra cost there's an RF interlinked option.

Good news its available

The two detection methods are designed to have separate circuits (aka zones), as long as the cable length and lid are tampered it doesn't matter how the tamper is detected. Zone types are whatever you need them to be they are not set by the type of device they're defined by the systems design. As I said in my post above I don't see the point in bothering with the shock that's on the entry route in most domestic cases. The device is more designed for confirmed protection in vulnerable areas of a domestic property that may have pets, or to make sure a back door is closed before arming the system; for example.

I have always had some sort of integration with other things in the house using the alarm panel. Most is standard outputs using status or zone mimics. Years ago you could see the alarm system becoming the central security hub but the way the market has gone consumer driven, I can see small embedded servers/routers in each home becoming the "central hub". Issue I have with this though is security, it can't be a fit and forget product if your going to connect it to the internet. They are better as a stand alone system and interfaced as we do now. I still feel the whole smart home thing is backwards, companies make the most money from selling your data and while people allow this to go on, smart home technology will never move on. They have no interest in making or developing a product that isn't harvesting your data in some way. "Smart home" isn't smart if you are telling it to do something, that's just having a gopher. It should react to what's going on and your actions to assist without prompt, not using an app or remote. In it's current form anything more "smart home" than standard outputs from an alarm seems pointless IMO.

I don't know exactly how the circuitry on the PCB is designed but they aren't like a Galaxy/DSC for example with just a common -ve reference. Certainly the PE48=> is capable of Double Pole and has it's own 4K7/2k2 resistors built into each circuit on the panel for reference against the circuit. The PE24 has a completely different PCB. As I say the Texecom will support upto 3 EOL devices on one pair/circuit if you wire and program it correctly.

That is just the threshold at which the panel can measure resistances. The threshold for different zone status depends on which "Zone Wiring" option you select. 4k7/4k7 was added to mimic those control panels like Aritech, so they where not designed to read any random values, only mimic other panels. This means the thresholds are different for each setting the most flexible and reliable setting is the Texecom ones which have been designed to support multiple shunts on one circuit. A more likely solution would be to tape a 6 or 8 core to the existing cable and pull it through having two cables to ones device is a bit unorthodox. You could just fit the shock plus contact elsewhere and use a normal contact, or not use the shock part at all. If you have only 1 zone spare on the panel then you are mapping 2 keypad zones to 2 panel zones with wiring, as I said above this will conflict.

I would hope most here don't need a reference to resistors in parallel and series... Mr. H is giving you a subtle hint that you can make a 2k3 resistor from 2x 4k7 resistors to diagnose the issue. While there is a possibility 4k7/4k7 mode "could" work short term, if both detectors where active at the same time the 14k1 could be detected as a tamper which would be less than ideal, see below for correct way to solve this. You can program the panel to detect different resistor values but they only support one shunt and one EOL if you use anything other than Texe values. It needs to be wired like the manual (Section marked as > Zone Connections - EOL - 2 Normally Closed Devices) TBH I fail to see the point of using a shock with contact on a front door that's part of the entry route. If you want to use the panel zones I would suggest you don't map the keypad to them anything wired into them may conflict. You will need to leave engineers menu to "save" the mapping and zone type changes. I suggest using say zones 23 24 I believe there was some python code kicking around on github that works with the ComIP module, I doubt the SmartCom is supported but I haven't tested it.

Needs wiring properly with the correct resistors programmed as Double Pole/EOL.It will never work wired like that. New Systems come with a bag of resistors. Has the keypad zone actually been mapped to a panel zone and programmed correctly? Spring on the lid may need a little tweak but I wouldn't expect a solid click with a spring and tactile button. TAP SMS is pretty dead and unreliable maybe best using your RPi to send an email or the like. Bear in mind comms like this are considered for low risk applications as the link isn't polled. If using a SmartCom then this supports Push notifications to phones. I wouldn't recommend using an alarm to "switch on" the cameras either it's just asking for a FTO.

No the company is based in San Jose. While we mainly deal with UK stuff we do get questions from all over the world.