sixwheeledbeast

As above really Onvif should be compatible but your most likely to have the least messing about if you fit a Hik. Trap you to a plug and play platform like that.

It's all down to the machine really, as the price of the machine goes up often the p/p comes down and the amount of pages before service increases.

You can pick A4 Mono Brothers up for less but the p/p is more if you use genuine ink.

If you know what you have first then you can check with insurance IMO. With signalling already fitted it's likely to have been insured before with what's fitted, low chance that the risk has changed. Obviously it would be the opposite way round if it was a new installation.

I don't think anyone here can help you with this type of DIY tat.

"Upping" sounds like you have the type that is not compatible with your connection. You need to check the things as per my post above.

Checked for Firewall or NAT issues?

If he actually means Redcare STU it will need a BT (Openreach PSTN) line to connect to the Redcare exchange. Most likely it's some other GPRS/GSM based BT Redcare product (aka Agile or Secure) which if dual path would just need any PSTN line or Ethernet connection. Worth clarifying with there office what unit and ATS grade you are having reconnected and will be paying for. You will also want all the ARC details and update keyholder details paperwork which will likely be on it's way to you.

Either wait for it to stop, force it to stop or power it back up and try the code.

PE is recommended for ducts or any outside work, "proper alarm cable" is 7x0.2 stranded tinned copper per core. It's stranded for a reason. DEOL would be my preferred solution.

No. They do not support programmable outputs you get what you get. Which doesn't include any part set. It's just a basic domestic panel not designed for this type of interfacing. Really it would be best swapped for a Premier 24. The only messy workaround I can suggest would require to use some external logic and possibly engineers access. You would have to remove the strobe wire and trigger it with the bell trigger. Then switch on the option for Strobe on Full Set (it s on as default). You can now use the Armed plus the Strobe outputs into your own logic to tell if the system has been full or part armed. if [Armed && Strobe Pulse] == Full else if [Armed] == Part I doubt it's worth the messing TBH.

Try and set the alarm with the circuit open then close the circuit to set the alarm off? Maybe try the 3 other zones too, you will have to program them in like zone 1. If nothing is changing state then it maybe knackered, I can't think of any other reason. Something seems broken if the panel is showing Ready but the NO circuit is closed.

So does Zone 1 change state when you open and close the circuit?

All wireless has the potential of jamming. Two way intruder alarm equipment will have jamming detection so for example on Ricochet after a period of time the device will poll fail which if the alarm was armed would trigger the alarm. Ricochet is mesh but you may get the distance in one hop with it being open air. Alternatively they do external radio passives or use more contacts. With mesh the more devices the better. Proper tinned copper alarm cable would be fine for any normal powered device on a 100m run tho you should have PE stealth if outside, if it's just a reed switch type contact there would be no power anyway.

MDT are no longer. The panels model with matter regarding LED/LCD compatibility.

People put any old tat on ebay. It would be the only place to buy it, if you think about it that way. Bit like second hand Sterling keypads and iD biscuits for example...

As above the devices are on 24 hour alarm, you need to use the key to disable the alarm first.

Pretty sure Visonic ADT is not compatible with off the shelf Visonic.

Zone Type = Instant Zone Wiring = NO Partition = 1 Program your zones as above Remove ALL wiring from controls apart from Mains. Check they are all Secure. Use wire links between your Z and Zcom to check the zones go active when linked.

To give some actual advise... We do not give out defaulting or codes here for security reasons. The control panel is pretty old and I assume you have no record of it's service history? Most 4 zone Optima's in the wild are at the point were they have done there time. They are either unreliable, keypad worn out, black burn marks on the PCB and plastics and/or take over 3 weeks to charge a battery properly. The most sensible suggestion would be to swap the control panel and possibly sounder for something modern that comes with instructions you can read over a cuppa. If you are not confident in doing this maybe get someone to come and have a look and quote an upgrade.

Type "Null" if there is no zone type it's not active.

Sannce are one of the Chinese rebrands that have there root password in Mirai.

It would be pretty rare to have a duff panel, if your going to blow something you would likely only break one circuit. having all the circuits do the same makes me still think a programming option. As I said I know Texe stuff pretty well but we rarely see international series over here, so I couldn't point you to the exact programming option from if that is what the issue is. My advice for testing panels zones would be to remove ALL other wiring (to remove possibility of a ground loop) and only use short pieces of wire and/or resistors to test your circuits. I imagine you need to be in walk test/zone status or some other mode that would trigger if a zone where activated.

Well do they change state in any of the modes?

It won't be firmware. It's all down to zone configuration somewhere. Nobody will ship a panel that has firmware that mean the zones dont work. Even if that was possible it would have been found upon installation and sent back not left screwed to your wall.