sixwheeledbeast

As per the OP, BS5839 states that as fire alarms are a safety system, cables must be segregated from all others and therefore have there own containment or segregation within tray or trunk. In reality interference will be minimal if kept with ELV circuits but that's what in stated in the standard. Not seen Scotmod around for a while, so bumping this old thread may not answer your question. However, the way I read it is that by conforming to BS7671 you cannot get interference, I don't agree.

It's a Gardtec i am amazed you can still read the display after 16 years...

Only ever had Fike stuff FA from light levels

Optical is more of a general purpose detector, ionisation would be more suited to bedrooms heat for kitchens and garages. Ionisation normally have a lower life expectancy. Mains ones could get expensive. Would use 180 Series myself.

Most manufacturers of detectors set a 10 year life expectancy, however they should be functionally tested regularly (a test button is not functional test). You would be lucky to get 4 years out of a Fire Angel and then they are for the bin. If you replaced the smokes for a modern type something like an Aico you could keep the alarm connection, have stand alone sounding and be able to swap the heads in the future. I would say the only issue you have is the smokes are so old you can't get replacement heads for them. All of this doesn't consider regular testing that you would get from having smokes connected to the alarm on a service, you wouldn't have that with the Fire Angels.

Not sure, but it's possible they have a custom BT firmware on them, not just down to 868 freq.

£5 smokes are going to be ionisation which may not be the same or the correct type of detection.

Still missing something here, why disconnect them in the first place?

May come in handy, plenty of TS and M stuff I have in service.

Only ever fitted one LEC6, on a TS700 a long while back. As you say it just thinks it's 3 keypads anyway.

Why remove them if they work? Surely it would be more sensible to replace them if you need. Alarm company are unlikely to be impressed if you remove stuff, you also risk the possibly of having no alarm at all if you can't remove them correctly. RE call out would be 1-2 hours work I imagine.

Normally smashing at things makes it worse. Hopefully it only needs a new cover.

The thing with the Pyronix Logo on falls out if you poke it, then you can access the only lid screw.

Freebie demo kit sent to someone that it's planning on using Eaton?

Still pretty common on Honeywell stuff, makes easier for swapping out faulty stuff without re-terminating. Issue can occur if wiring is terminated without it being mounted to the board can make the insides of the terminal block twist.

Have you tried local companies to see if any support Pyronix?

I'd be looking to bother the city authority to get the street lighting repaired as a first step. I still reckon PIR bulkhead type fittings taken from some supply in the lobby area would be the way to go if you had too. It's just pointless having spaghetti wiring up to the fourth floor, the lights going to do nothing from up there

You would need multiple PIR's to cover that area. I imagine that cheap light will die quickly. Do the street lights in the centre of the car park not work? I would say bulkhead type fittings with motion on each side of the porches would be suited better.

I still think the comment stands UK or not. If I where the landlord I wouldn't want someone modifying the electrics, especially in a HMO It sounds like it needs a separate PIR unit wired to the light location, depending on the setup you may need a few PIR locations and a 2way or intermediate. Hard to recommend something without understanding the full picture and also would be designed for UK wiring regs which maybe irrelevant. Light output should also measured in Lux which will give you a better indication than Wattage

I doubt you will find and all in one unit that would do something that. Before you even consider anything I would contact the landlord and explain that you feel the need for better lighting in the area. It's not your responsibility to be adjusting the electrics in a flat

Work with the hand your dealt, always best way to win the game.

I rate the Elmdene ones for G3, you can wire them in a way so the magnetic interference shows as a separate masked signal. Had a few sites mainly engineering units where tampers would happen, most often in the day, tried most of the available G3 RSC's and found this was the best solution. Obviously G3 contacts have stricter mounting criteria (orientation, distance, alignment) over G2 but they are all designed to be mounted to a metal shutter directly as per the instructions.

Fitted upside down?

Yes most modern panels would be fine. Texecom Premier would be a pretty straight forward swap with them having compatibility with any keypad zones or EOL values. If you are getting somebody in to do it, I would let them spec which controls they support tho.

Logic 4 is likely to be 4 core era, possibly has a mechanical bell.