sixwheeledbeast

It may get it working for now. Really it's the charging rate to check not just voltage.

They are designed not to be disabled. Get up a ladder and smack it with a hammer...

The system isn't working correctly. It likely hasn't been serviced in a long time and either the battery is faulty and/or the panel charging circuit has blown. This would need repairing or the whole system decommissioning before you can isolate the power without triggering the outside siren.

Load Default button held down? NVM issue? Network Errors? What does the log say? Clearly something is wrong. I wouldn't be impressed as a customer with the answer, I don't know. Isolate things and work backwards until it's stable.

The comment regarding Grade 4 shows complete misunderstanding... Curtain PIR, Beams, Foil, all probably much better options. Make sure your glassbreak supports bulletproof/laminated glass consider how the shutter will affect detection, if you ignore us. Chubb may want to rip half of it out if it's not to spec anyway.

DIY can't do Grade 3. Double Knock doesn't conform to any standard. Motion detection fitted correctly can cover a window area if the window was broken. Hence the question is a glass break the correct detection for the task, most often they are not.

Was there a question? Replace and/or resite the breakglass if that's the most appropriate equipment to use, it's not fit for the job as is.

As we say above, if a blinking LED is the only think provided by the manufacturer this should only be used as a visual human indicator not to control something. We do understand your problem and while it can be done with engineering something; either from discretes, semis and logic or even software on a SBC, we are looking at a different level. Being involved in safety and security systems we are looking at the risk of something like this, maybe this isn't how it works over the pond but modifying kit like this would put the liability on you if it failed. If the manufacturers design it to have a failure output to use then this would be tested to the standards required and if that failed you would take it up with them. Your kit wouldn't be tested to the same standards and while you are understandably trying to keep your kit electrically isolated from the manufacturers it would still be classed as a modification removing any conformity the equipment has. Over here it happens, companies will build projects using all parts that are 'xy' rated believing the end product they supply has that conformity. It's not how it works all the components may have never been tested with each other before. For things that are not critical maybe this is never discovered, but if something fails in a critical system questions will be asked, most likely in court. Even something as simple as mixing manufacturers of electrical breakers within a consumer unit, if a fire occurs this maybe to blame. Manufacturers are not going to be testing conformity of there kit with every other manufacturer just to make sure you can use what you have on the shelf...

Can't rely on automatic detection of a flashing LED for a safety system, as above if the equipment doesn't have a fault interface your peeing in the wind.

Alarms aren't magic they don't switch on and off like that. They require commissioning and decommissioning by an alarm engineer. They are designed so they can't be bypassed in a power cut without activating. If they are maintained regularly alarms do not activate during a power loss and can run from backup for 8 hours or more. You should contact the installer, failing that find some other installer to "decommission" it. Or if DIY go up a ladder and mess with it at your own risk. Not sure if considered "brutal" as would be messing about up ladders with possible high voltages.

In basic terms it could be anything. A multimeter and knowledge of how to use it would be a start. System is likely in tamper lockout, find the tamper find the fault.

Who told you it needed a battery? Has a fuse blown? Does the charging circuit actually work? Have you put the lid on and reset it?

The risk is just too great to allow third party access for the functionality you get IMO. It wouldn't be allowed in an IT setting and they are more likely to have full time admins looking for suspicious activity.

Those konnected.io things aren't a proper alarm, so don't expect them to be 100% compatible with alarm sounders... Never fitted one but I suspect it one of those things that takes a 16Ohm input and makes it into a soundbomb piezo thing.

Even got classic NiCD battery not the newer NiMH...

I think I still have a clear one knocking about... I wonder if it sells.

There are planning permission issues for installers fitting illuminated boxes on most sites anyway. I wouldn't ever fit them, in fact I have removed a good few of the LED strips from these Ody X's over the years. Given some more time now from the OP I'd say 25% that I removed have eventually become flaky or failed. Pretty simple to remove, it's a clever design having it modular like that; although I suspect they may have been running a bit hot. Have seen two different LED types one better than the other. The modules that do continue to work, nicely modify into decent camping lights...

Oh a Citadel XR2... so an Accenta. Bell comes with instructions follow the ADE one. Five wires, negative strobe.

and you can mix SEOL and DEOL? Some panels set it for the whole system not per zone. Don't know the Flex.

Does a Flex support SEOL or even DP for that matter?

DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.

You say it's not an option... but that's what I would do. Wouldn't entertain all that stuff on one zone.

Keeps all passwords in a book, won't do internet banking but has CCTV... Daily Mail reader? It's understanding what the risks are, some are lower priority than others to a lot of people. I don't trust anything with my data and if some data is required I consider what would happen if it was mishandled. Happy to not use whatever it is if there is no trust, for work I use the same standards, wouldn't fit anything for a customer I wouldn't use myself. There is a big difference between knowing you like wearing M&S dressing gowns and identify theft, but either could be possible depending on what data is collected over time.

Do not feed the monkeys...