sixwheeledbeast

Date code on the box seems to be Mid October '93 Don't know much about them.

Been given 2 of these, both new but tatty boxes Before I consider them as WEEE I thought I'd document them for the nerds here. Didn't find much info on them from searching.

They are not ideal but they don't really do a lot hence the cost. Shuffle the pins around but you'll get less speed and wattage

Most wired sirens are compatible with wired systems but keeping the same manufacturer means you are likely to have instructions for how to connect there own. Have you proved it's actually the siren at fault?

Tell me something I haven't been ranting about for years...

Having listened to the podcast already it's not related, images came from social media. It will take a defence lawyer to get the evidence thrown out on possible deepfake grounds, for change to happen. If you handle evidence properly with decent kit it shouldn't be an issue.

Don't believe stainless for cable tackers is a thing. Regular galv or painted white is all I have ever seen.

IXP is for third party kit. IProx can't be wireless so I don't see why keypad would be, also a wireless keypad will depend on what other wireless equipment you fit as to if you have capacity at the expander.

I'd be surprised a house with a flush keypad fitted would only need 3 sensors... If your having a company in it's no good recommending kit, they will use what they support. If you found somewhere reliable that supports Galaxy then less repair work. Usual recommendation is 3 quotes, go with the place that makes you feel the most comfortable NOT just the cheapest.

Sound bombs are bin fodder. It sounds like something that has high enough risk that I'd be thinking needs signalling.

There can be unforeseen planning permission issues and they are unnecessary light pollution. You can fit them without connecting the backlight on the X's, but can purchase the twin siren non-X ones for similar price. Covering a new box with what I guess is some old C-Type cover would remove the deterrent of a shiny new box and reduce sound output. If you are thinking of not buying a lid for this sounder it just will not work, they need a compatible lid.

It's a wired panel that could be expanded into wireless with extra kit but it's NOT wireless or hybrid OOTB.

Support for products are for trade installers. 1 Mostly, PCB and Software same. Cab allows larger standby and larger output PSU. 2 iProx will work 3 It's extra outdoor reader, pretty sure it's one external reader per iProx 4 No tags come with iProx 5 Smartcom is compatible but need a trade account to register for Cloud only "DIY option" is GSM-COM 6 Either but neither is Prox 7 This is where you start to seem completely lost - it's just another keypad variant with Prox and yes you'll need a keypad. 8 You haven't got a wireless system, most bells will work but I wouldn't use a backlit one. 9 Again not wireless system and a random Enforcer passive...!? I think you should seriously consider getting a quote for someone to do it, if you value your time and security. Your not sure on product types or what is compatible and how it goes together. Very little of it will come with a manual, some older stock may have a quick leaflet but not the panels. Whatever your trying to do with this iProx stuff will rely on good programming knowledge to get working, I'd query the design.

You can't escape without fixing all the faults.

Not much will work in a faraday cage obviously. Metal will reduce range. Mesh is better with more nodes, so having single devices to repeat through like a bridge is not ideal. Having a couple of contacts local end, direct to devices in the remote building much better. If this isn't suitable I'd say it needs a self contained system and would steer towards that option anyway dependant on usage of the buildings.

Can't see any issue with 25m just straight to devices.

Either separate systems or wireless depending on distance.

There isn't assuming it's decent Cat5e. Ethernet goes ~100m, what you can power depends on kit. You could use a midspan if more power is required.

There is plenty of DIY junk on the market. As you may have discovered from the other threads no installer would fit it. As pointed out there is no wireless power so if batteries you'll be forever replacing them. One issue often overlooked at a DIY level for CCTV is that if connected to the internet you are hosting a server, therefore open to attack. Cheap stuff has poor software and security not chance of updates. It will be backdoored very quickly allowing others to monitor you while mining themselves some bitcoin with your electricity...

Also branded as Honeywell/Intellisense/Tate/C&K/Securit... Completely obsolete and not worth fitting, no alternatives so you would be looking used if you really wanted to keep the panel. I'd try and sell it and fit something modern, sensors too.

There is add-on third party tat available but it wouldn't be recommended. More cost effective to upgrade the system, most decent systems with apps are engineer install only or subscription. Subscription push apps and monitoring shouldn't be confused they are different services, as is the pricing of them. If you want a message server to be reliable someone has to pay for that service somewhere... If it's serviced regularly and reliable so it doesn't cry wolf. Most decent neighbours would get a message to you.

Carefully as above and mount with walldogs

Yep, "Non volatile" as in it should remember settings even with no power.

If it's lost memory it's not FFP and needs removing. Can't be considered reliable if an NVM forgets.

Would need upgrading, Veritas is really basic. Smartcom for Premier app needs an installer account. You'd need prox keypad if your calling prox tags "keyfobs", maybe you mean something else. Sensors should work they'd probably be double pole, but I'd replace them anyway.