sixwheeledbeast

I didn't recommend the beam it's a good product but just explaining the costs. Maybe the Takex is the right product if you know how to put it together. Anyone can throw an alarm panel at it. I have used Ricochet contacts to send signals back for example. Again this all goes back to X Y Problem.

Takex and Optex are similar quality kit. The Takex unit and the Optex with it's separate C form compatible transmitter unit will likely be similar cost wise. The idea with the Optex unit is you can choose any 3.6V C Form compatible transmitter or series a few beams on the same pole onto one transmitter. It also means you can select a radio frequency best suited to the country and application. Again we are talking professional grade perimeter protection here.

Well yes EN50131 refers back to BS4737 in a lot of cases.

We are talking professional grade kit designed to work in all weathers and through dense fog, not a £12 doorbell. Maybe ebay or online electrical retailers have something less pro that will suit your door bell scenario, if your not worried too much about reliability.

Everything gets old eventually

More items are using 868 now as 433 was congested. 868 is now very close to 4G mobile too. Your better to safe your money than fit DIY tat I would normally fit wires where possible but that doesn't mean a professional grade two way security system wouldn't be stable.

Minimum, maximum can be about four years if never activated. The is an option in the Master User Menu it gives you a period of time to replace batteries, TBH I have seen the option but never tried it, not had time to flash the test panel recently. It has to be enabled in the engineers for the option to be enabled to the master user only.

I agree there is XY Problem here. Is it just for chime? Can it be connected to an alarm? If you can only do radio you need some type of receiver house end.

Lets hope the charging circuit isn't knackered this time then.

*Sequences Shortened

If the PIR's don't trigger the lights everytime they will be on Auto, so sleep on activation. Batteries in the PIR's are Lithium CR123. Wireless smokes are AAA's. Texecom come with Duracell as standard. Smokes and PIR's should definitely get a year. Shocks and Contacts normally 2 years. There is a user battery replacement option on the Texe but it depends which firmware version. They are replacing like for like then, you'll have to see how you go but I would look at another option or resite myself.

Zone 2 - 7=0 8=0 9=1

It's a table of options you switch on and off. So toggle 7 on or off then refer to the appropriate tables for keys 8 and 9 Default 7/8/9 option is Normal night Circuit so it depends what you want.

To me it seems a case of using wireless for ease over considering the potential false alarms. If there wasn't an issue you wouldn't be concerned how they work. The devices themselves are pretty decent in the correct environment, they are manufactured in partnership with Apollo. I have only seen one failure and that was a week after someone had all there internal doors off to sand and paint them.

If they are the wireless ones there is only a multisensor option and I wouldn't call them suitable for a kitchen.

Looks good or maybe this https://www.loxone.com/enen/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2017/07/EN_Datasheet_200112_outdoor-motion-sensor.pdf

Plenty of 12VDC options. Was thinking LX-402 initially. What are you trying to achieve? Dual Tech/False alarm/pet immune is a bit vague? You have not mentioned anything about switching current and voltage. Sounds like something a IR beam may do a better job at.

They are certainly a big footprint compared with other devices but they tick all the boxes on reliability and functionality.

It most likely this post is spam, however, I gave the OP be benefit of the doubt and didn't mark as a spammer. Some of us are nice like that.

If they are Exodus smokes on a Texecom Premier system I would consider a replacement for Aico low voltage. This is unless the site warrants a "proper" fire alarm system installing which maybe what the alarm company are alluding too. It's possible the devices are contaminated and need replacing, I'd expect them to be replaced periodically as part of maintenance if on brigade every 5 years. Also possible they are the wrong type of detection, the generic Exodus "blue" multisensor isn't suitable in kitchens and orangery's IMO. Beams are an option but they would have to be compatible with an intruder alarm, kit like fire beams are designed for a fire alarm as referenced above. TBH I would have at least made the system KH only and replaced the heads in the time being until you resolve the issue. Sounds like so far you have had people come and look but do little in reactive response. Either way your in the hands of the alarm company really.

Yep

Yep wireless only tho. They are labelled up as a Grade 2 item funnily enough. There's also a stand alone receiver module so you can stick em on any controls.

I don't fit Galaxy but would be surprised if they dropped the 2-20. Control panels are very rarely faulty from experience, you need to rule out external factors as throwing a panel at it is relatively expensive and will piss the customer off if it's something else. There could be something shorting to ground and dragging the system down, or maybe even the battery is faulty but appears ok if you test it. Not an exhaustive list of what it could be tho.

Depending on the system I much prefer the Aico low voltage option now. I would consider for it to be an auxiliary/ancillary it should have some way to function on it's own, which is not the case with your standard 12v smoke. I would argue that the fire detector being considered ancillary is not a good idea, ancillary by definition makes it less important than the system it's ancillary to.

Fire alarm systems need to conform to BS5839 which intruder alarm systems on there own aren't designed for. A graded intruder system is only graded by it's lowest grade component if you have no signalling it's impossible to be G3 even with all Grade 3 components