sixwheeledbeast

Most eyeball cameras have optional conduit backboxes or rings? A boxed PSU? What's up with a normal JB or the Dantech one. Would have to get graded to be useful.

Handy for when you need to use conduit. I always prefer to lose the wiring in the cavity where feasible, less chance of some muppet smashing your work up with a FLT. Most use Dantech for CCTV PSU's

I have always rated Dantech stuff TBH.

Ah yes Elmdene Setswitch are the ones I remember fitting, rarely used them TBH but handy to have none the less.

What was the type that had no button you just needed something ferrous to trigger the switch?

Arnie surface had an option for a buzzer much bulkier that that I recall.

Some detectors allow you to wire in 0.25W resistors across the terminals of the device, others have jumper selectors, depends on the make and model. Lots of options but just make sure they are compatible with your panel.

I am sure it's something that could be resolved by a competent engineer that knows Eurosec. I don't particularly rate Eurosec stuff myself. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/ may be helpful. I wouldn't be surprised if you are recommended a more modern panel by most engineers who come and have a look.

As you say there was complacency on both sides there. It could have been that the circuit was switched off but not properly isolated and someone else has switched it on. When you see an un-terminated cable you expect it to be dead especially if someone has told you it should be dead. As people that work with electrics regularly know it's your responsibility to always check for dead ideally with a voltage tester, it's always when you get complacent that these incidents happen.

Inductance is measured over a conductors parallel length, this is why you may cross cables perpendicularly but they must have separation/segregation when parallel.

I would fit Quads minimum in the house and DT in the Garage. I rate Optex myself

From what I remember it was just for the Ultimate to get 2x iD BUS lines.

As per the OP, BS5839 states that as fire alarms are a safety system, cables must be segregated from all others and therefore have there own containment or segregation within tray or trunk. In reality interference will be minimal if kept with ELV circuits but that's what in stated in the standard. Not seen Scotmod around for a while, so bumping this old thread may not answer your question. However, the way I read it is that by conforming to BS7671 you cannot get interference, I don't agree.

It's a Gardtec i am amazed you can still read the display after 16 years...

Only ever had Fike stuff FA from light levels

Optical is more of a general purpose detector, ionisation would be more suited to bedrooms heat for kitchens and garages. Ionisation normally have a lower life expectancy. Mains ones could get expensive. Would use 180 Series myself.

Most manufacturers of detectors set a 10 year life expectancy, however they should be functionally tested regularly (a test button is not functional test). You would be lucky to get 4 years out of a Fire Angel and then they are for the bin. If you replaced the smokes for a modern type something like an Aico you could keep the alarm connection, have stand alone sounding and be able to swap the heads in the future. I would say the only issue you have is the smokes are so old you can't get replacement heads for them. All of this doesn't consider regular testing that you would get from having smokes connected to the alarm on a service, you wouldn't have that with the Fire Angels.

Not sure, but it's possible they have a custom BT firmware on them, not just down to 868 freq.

£5 smokes are going to be ionisation which may not be the same or the correct type of detection.

Still missing something here, why disconnect them in the first place?

May come in handy, plenty of TS and M stuff I have in service.

Only ever fitted one LEC6, on a TS700 a long while back. As you say it just thinks it's 3 keypads anyway.

Why remove them if they work? Surely it would be more sensible to replace them if you need. Alarm company are unlikely to be impressed if you remove stuff, you also risk the possibly of having no alarm at all if you can't remove them correctly. RE call out would be 1-2 hours work I imagine.

Normally smashing at things makes it worse. Hopefully it only needs a new cover.

The thing with the Pyronix Logo on falls out if you poke it, then you can access the only lid screw.