sixwheeledbeast

May come in handy, plenty of TS and M stuff I have in service.

Only ever fitted one LEC6, on a TS700 a long while back. As you say it just thinks it's 3 keypads anyway.

Why remove them if they work? Surely it would be more sensible to replace them if you need. Alarm company are unlikely to be impressed if you remove stuff, you also risk the possibly of having no alarm at all if you can't remove them correctly. RE call out would be 1-2 hours work I imagine.

Normally smashing at things makes it worse. Hopefully it only needs a new cover.

The thing with the Pyronix Logo on falls out if you poke it, then you can access the only lid screw.

Freebie demo kit sent to someone that it's planning on using Eaton?

Still pretty common on Honeywell stuff, makes easier for swapping out faulty stuff without re-terminating. Issue can occur if wiring is terminated without it being mounted to the board can make the insides of the terminal block twist.

Have you tried local companies to see if any support Pyronix?

I'd be looking to bother the city authority to get the street lighting repaired as a first step. I still reckon PIR bulkhead type fittings taken from some supply in the lobby area would be the way to go if you had too. It's just pointless having spaghetti wiring up to the fourth floor, the lights going to do nothing from up there

You would need multiple PIR's to cover that area. I imagine that cheap light will die quickly. Do the street lights in the centre of the car park not work? I would say bulkhead type fittings with motion on each side of the porches would be suited better.

I still think the comment stands UK or not. If I where the landlord I wouldn't want someone modifying the electrics, especially in a HMO It sounds like it needs a separate PIR unit wired to the light location, depending on the setup you may need a few PIR locations and a 2way or intermediate. Hard to recommend something without understanding the full picture and also would be designed for UK wiring regs which maybe irrelevant. Light output should also measured in Lux which will give you a better indication than Wattage

I doubt you will find and all in one unit that would do something that. Before you even consider anything I would contact the landlord and explain that you feel the need for better lighting in the area. It's not your responsibility to be adjusting the electrics in a flat

Work with the hand your dealt, always best way to win the game.

I rate the Elmdene ones for G3, you can wire them in a way so the magnetic interference shows as a separate masked signal. Had a few sites mainly engineering units where tampers would happen, most often in the day, tried most of the available G3 RSC's and found this was the best solution. Obviously G3 contacts have stricter mounting criteria (orientation, distance, alignment) over G2 but they are all designed to be mounted to a metal shutter directly as per the instructions.

Fitted upside down?

Yes most modern panels would be fine. Texecom Premier would be a pretty straight forward swap with them having compatibility with any keypad zones or EOL values. If you are getting somebody in to do it, I would let them spec which controls they support tho.

Logic 4 is likely to be 4 core era, possibly has a mechanical bell.

It's all easy if you know. 999 seconds =~ 16 minutes

You have set the Part Set Bell delay to 16 minutes like above.

Would need a Fire Risk Assessment done as part of the building work.

I don't see why public being there would make it mandatory, I can't recall that as a statement in regulations. "All commercial premises must have appropriate fire detection" that doesn't necessarily mean it's mandatory to have a fire alarm system installed.

You'd be using the comms output instead of the bell trig. I still believe Part Set Bell Delay or a Custom Output are the best two options.

That is another way but would require a little more setup over what I posted in post2 you would need adjust pulse timers then. Also have the issue of the bell not triggering on a tamper if you use "intruder".

Toggle switch like that is far from ideal. If it fails, you forget to switch it or it is found in a break in, your alarm is useless. The design behind a self activating bell is that everything is contained within it and only controlled by the panel so they are harder to defeat in a break in. I would suggest a small part set bell delay is the most appropriate.

Wind up merchants at it again.... I don't believe the do but they are in the unit round the corner.