sixwheeledbeast

They are fairly expensive for good branded ones. Don't believe 800 is a size you can get, normally jump from 600 to 1000 long. As they get used rarely I have a couple of cheapish 3pc sets in 1m and 1.5m. I think they are 12, 16 and 24mm and where about £25 and £45 a little while back. When I say cheapish something like Silverline, Toolpak or Bluespot brand IIRC, top branded I wouldn't be surprised if they where 50-70 each?

If you have swapped everything around to test for faulty kit (looks like a possible faulty balun to me) I would then be trying to isolate the camera on a fresh battery to check for ground loop or voltage issues. If the camera is bolted straight onto the galv you may have a ground loop even tho you are running baluns. Doubt an STP (tho Cat 6 isn't STP as standard) or conduit would interfere with a single balun run.

I wouldn't recommend taking over a PX if you have never used them before. Also you will need to replace all the EOL modules and possibly some devices if you swap the controls.

They are the special parallel Guardall EOL's, highly doubt it would be faulty and could be tested with a meter.

Red for bed..

PIR type sensors should be mounted facing perpendicular to the risk not at it.

Maybe Bosch BluLine Pet DT's right through so you have options? You can then choose either pet alley mode or do perimeter protection in pet areas which is the preferred.

I only use Optex or Bosch myself therefore minimum quads as standard in any "living" rooms. Dualtech for harsher environment like garages etc. Sensors would normally cover a full 12mx12m room so two in one room is unnecessary unless you have blind spots. Consider ditching the tiny internal sounder built into the Poly cab and fitting a proper one elsewhere, something like a CQR Alto extension speaker or the like. Contacts minimum on any entry door others optional unless in pet areas. Wouldn't recommend glassbreak, better with shocks if your doing windows but consider bird strikes on large bi-folds and windows. If you have any sense your unlikely to have much of an issue screwing whatever to the wall it's the design, knowing how it all programs and fits together you would likely come unstuck on. Expect may hours of reading manuals, pressing buttons and terminology only alarm monkeys speak before you get something near working.

CQR Pro https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/cqr-8-core-alarm-cable-white-p-738.html

I would fit a Poly panel in this instance. I have used an expander for short wires but I fail to see how it would help in this case. While the Metal cab has more room inside looking at the distance from the cable entry to the PCB you would be better with the Poly Cab IMO.

I wouldn't extend them there is enough there for a Premier. Just open up the plaster and containment for what you need then mount the panel to cover the hole.

Thought the old school engineers did the spark and rattle test?... I think ACT is pretty much industry standard TBH, Yuasa one is a lot more expensive.

Also I wouldn't bother with 4 or 6 any more. Much easier to standardise on 8C, spare cores can always be useful.

It's cheap CCA Type 3 garbage, you get what you pay for. Only use CQR pro here.

I was just going to say Greggs have there own facility company do it.

Most companies will put your company logo on for free if you order a batch

Bellboxes take a beating; either by weather, temperature or burglars. Discrete components are more resilient to this.

Bentley Symphony was the first microprocessor IIRC?

24 would be fine

It's like an "international" version of a Premier, not so popular over here but still produced AFAIK. No prox tags on any version, I imagine unlikely to be able to upgrade it to the latest version with such old hardware either. Most are easily replaced with a PE48 as only go upto 832. Check for a plug on expander and remote expander versions for compatibility tho.

Can't beat a wired system, I'd at least choose something hybrid so if you have an issue with the wireless you have options.

They are a pretty basic panel you have to wire the sensors into the correct zones. Zone 4 is likely just un-configurable, so full alarm all the time.

Are the tampers on the box closed correctly? Don't know the panel or the bell too well but seems right.

Don't link them out, program them out. You should get resistors with the kits and they are DEOL default normally.