sixwheeledbeast

That's not an out of the box option on a Premier. It's not something that you would normally do. You would need to use custom outputs to do custom things. Something like have a stage for Bell SAB and a Inverted stage for Part armed. Alternatively if it's concern for waking the neighbours in the night you can set the part set bell delay timer to whatever time you feel.

Considering the hype around the stuff for the last few years, I have never seen a system in the wild. Or know of any companies fitting the controls as standard.

It's likely you need to set zone 1 as entry and remove the default guard on part set like H says above.

Any 16 Ohm Loudspeaker like a CQR Alto for example.

Speaker is built in located under the circuit board but it's possible it's not working.

You have to set the zone type as Double Pole/EOL and you need to wire it correctly, that being using the outer terminals of the four in the keypad and your 4k7 and 2k2 wired in the contact as per the instructions in the manual. >65k means open circuit aka tampered.

On the topic of £10 profit. This is worth a watch, even if your employed or a customer similar things apply. There are things a lot of people don't consider from the other POV, like how much it costs to send you as an employed engineer to a job in the first place. Or how much time has gone into that job before you rock up in your van. Similar considerations from a customers POV, if your looking at a system on price alone then consider how much of that price is related to kit quality. Businesses can only survive by making a profit after paying the wages.

Only fitted one a good while ago, Had to fit stainless bell to suit the job. I believe they are pretty decent. I can only imagine the other wire would be a battery link (maybe answers your OP, why you have no hold off triggering) but maybe someone that has fitted one more recently can help.

I wouldn't say temporary fix, more permanent damage.

Good luck if you can survive and build a business doing all jobs with a 20% discount. Something will catch up with you eventually.

Alarms if fitted correctly are designed to time out to limit noise pollution. There is no guarantee that it would stop tho. I have known systems to keep ringing out in certain fault conditions.

20 minutes if BS, 15 minutes if EN

As you can see people don't agree. It's all down to if you see it as a box pushing game or a service industry IMO. You can push as many shiny new boxes as you want but customers want a good service, it's the peace of mind and trust in your system and installer people should focus on.

I still say a good, well maintained, fit for purpose system wouldn't need ripping out. People are too quick to add to the E-waste pile IMO. It's easy to say you swap your car or phone more regularly than your alarm but most of this consumer stuff is designed with a short lifespan in mind and you are trapped to a platform. A lot of my electronic equipment is 10 years old but its well looked after, I'd only plan to replace it when it's unserviceable.

Doesn't mean the standby battery is large enough tho. Depends if that was checked when it was fitted.

If it's well looked after it's unlikely to need replacing. Either way the wires could be reused if in good condition. .

Alarm systems need regular maintenance to avoid issues like this, SLA batteries have an expected life of 4 years for good quality ones. I would suggest you have the system serviced by the installer. Alternatively if you are feeling competent to DIY, it would be sensible to check the voltage and charging rate with a multimeter, when you replace the battery otherwise you will be back up there again next power cut. It is up to you if you want to isolate the mains before opening the cover, most engineers would not but they would also be unlikely to poke there fingers near the mains terminals.

Merged thread, please do not repost the same topic again. It just fragments questions for future reference and search results. This is covered in the site guidelines. Thanks

Digi Output 7 is most likely already setup for your needs, you may just have to invert it in the output menu.

Some installs need labelling especially if you have a lot or it isn't you coming back. I would argue some installs are not worth labelling. For example if domestic I would often wait until all the devices are up and flash them on the battery while wiring up so they can then be labelled in the finished controls. Sometimes old skool is still the best.

I personally still connect the set even if you only use one, it's good to see if the device has been activated even if unset. As above FTA is a stand alone bus that doesn't go back to the controls. You will likely need to invert any outputs as PE24 only has -ve sinking.

Self Contained Bell, uses it's own lead acid battery to sound the siren when triggered from panel. Self Activating Bell, uses the panel voltage to sound the siren when trigger is low, or "hold off" voltage is removed which "self activates" the bell from it's NiCd. Many modern SAB's have a SCB style mode.

SCB where designed that way. Tamper return will be +ve if the HO is +ve, you can see the tamper link is still fitted

So it's for an old SCB then

I would test with a meter first but I assume:- 12v+ = +ve 12v- = trig HO = -ve ST = tamp return B = beacon? strobe Failing that the 999 D'COM terminals are likely negative sinking panic and intruder.