sixwheeledbeast

One of those 700L rebrands I believe. If you can find a keypad just swap it over, although you maybe better just upgrading for something that comes as a panel and keypad if you feel competent to do that.

I recall it as 15 minute activation not 30 minutes. Seen as the bell timer would be 15 minutes the alarm current after 15 minutes will be different on an SAB. Was sure the standard says something along the lines of "12 (24) hours standby including one full activation"? Still useful chart tho, not a bad thing to be overspec standby capacity wise.

Texe have a wireless smoke kit that will work independently but it's not Exodus brand it's Rick O Shea. I would use something like Aico 180 Series for low voltage supply. Fire alarm controls a bit overkill for your standard domestic house.

Only issue with Texe ones is they rely on a working alarm system and have no redundancy if the alarm fails, in any fault or fire condition. Just something to consider.

From what I can find out Iso-Tech are RS rebrands, most seem discontinued and now rebranded as RS Pro. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/digital-multimeters/8732367/ As I say above if your looking for a quality meter new you can't beat the Fluke 117. I wouldn't be without the Non contact, Auto-V and Lo-Z features now. If I where looking again I'd consider the 117/323 combo kit can be handy to have a clamp meter in some situations.

You forgot to replace the fixed housings for Swann bullets... It's one way wireless and not worth the electricity to power it. Just as effective to throw some dummies up with flasher modules if you want cheap.

Why Texe? Would have to be RR if you consider the kitchen or garage sensor to be exposed to dust, car fumes, cooking fumes, steam etc. OH would detect a smouldering fire quicker tho.

Yes technically "wrong" too. Cut the cable and you have no siren. Even as a second line of defence, on low risk it's a waste of time fitting Yale DIY IMO.

Pile of DIY rubbish not designed to be wired, would be better to reuse the existing wiring and upgrade what you have IMO.

If you went for a drink the following day you could have picked a meter up for £20.

Popular and nicked from work or out of engineers vans...

A or T next to the zone name in the walk test.

Can't beat a Fluke 117 for general purpose DMM.

38mm is used most, I guess DNO asked for 50mm? Can they get them to order? Quick look online most 50mm hits are in Ireland. https://www.amazon.co.uk//dp/B01NA0U7NP

Builders merchant or electrical wholesaler. I would expect them to have 38mm ones in stock anyway.

The installer would be liable if found to be on the banned list, rebrand or not.

Ah, you maybe right. Not sure if it's all of the range tho. Only the banned manufacturers list (Hik, ZTE, Huawei plus a few others), not everything Chinese.

5G network is still up in the air I believe. There's plenty of kit that's not Hik or Dahua you just have to shop about. Axis, Pelco, Bosch, Techwin, Vivotek, Honeywell to name a few. They don't have a preferred kit there is just a list of blacklisted manufacturers AFAIK. I think it's right we should question the integrity of equipment installed.

The manual is 150+ pages of stuff for engineers reference. Most manufacturers don't provide an engineers manual for the commercial grade stuff. Considering most manuals will end up in the bin, as you only need one per engineer, it makes sense to only provide them to companies on request.

This is possible however, you can make tampers user reset so worth a try, In the long run you will need to find another installer that supports Scantronic to takeover your system and it's maintenance.

:shudder: Reminds me of them awful Scantronic Homelink panels, bell was replaced three times before it got ripped out for a wired one.

I fail to see why you would want mechanical devices that are quieter and can wear over a piezo.

There's no offence. People come here asking for advice and opinions from people in the trade, if people here think there is no better alternative then why would you not explain your reasoning to that? I read the post as "is there a better way", answer "no, and here's why". In the many years being here I can say we often have to decode "XY problems" from people on the public side. Maybe this comes across as answering a question with a question but you can only give advise on what you know for certain. We haven't even got into an argument about why you wouldn't use a tampered junction box but we don't know the full picture, for example. ;)

System is locked out in tamper due to a fault or multiple of them. I would recommend having the system serviced including battery replacement.

I have never seen a high resistance issue on a soldered cable connection, whereas I have been to a few call outs (takeovers) for bad closed splices. Taking connection quality aside you still can't improve on soldering and shrink when it comes to the size of the completed connection either. There's also moisture protection with solder and shrink... it takes a little more time but if you must joint a cable it's worth the time to do it the best way possible. The ideal solution is replace the cable where possible obviously.