sixwheeledbeast

The manual is 150+ pages of stuff for engineers reference. Most manufacturers don't provide an engineers manual for the commercial grade stuff. Considering most manuals will end up in the bin, as you only need one per engineer, it makes sense to only provide them to companies on request.

This is possible however, you can make tampers user reset so worth a try, In the long run you will need to find another installer that supports Scantronic to takeover your system and it's maintenance.

:shudder: Reminds me of them awful Scantronic Homelink panels, bell was replaced three times before it got ripped out for a wired one.

I fail to see why you would want mechanical devices that are quieter and can wear over a piezo.

There's no offence. People come here asking for advice and opinions from people in the trade, if people here think there is no better alternative then why would you not explain your reasoning to that? I read the post as "is there a better way", answer "no, and here's why". In the many years being here I can say we often have to decode "XY problems" from people on the public side. Maybe this comes across as answering a question with a question but you can only give advise on what you know for certain. We haven't even got into an argument about why you wouldn't use a tampered junction box but we don't know the full picture, for example. ;)

System is locked out in tamper due to a fault or multiple of them. I would recommend having the system serviced including battery replacement.

I have never seen a high resistance issue on a soldered cable connection, whereas I have been to a few call outs (takeovers) for bad closed splices. Taking connection quality aside you still can't improve on soldering and shrink when it comes to the size of the completed connection either. There's also moisture protection with solder and shrink... it takes a little more time but if you must joint a cable it's worth the time to do it the best way possible. The ideal solution is replace the cable where possible obviously.

Stuck in engineers because the battery is faulty? IIRC the display should show nothing with the day light on if unset and clear. System needs checking to may sure the charging circuit isn't faulty otherwise it's just going to damage a fresh battery.

Exactly, any crimped connection has only friction to maintain a good connection (lowest resistance), even with the friction of the copper twisted together. Issue with crimped type connections is they rely on exact pressure over the crimps surface area to have perfect friction, too much pressure or unequal you get conductor damage and too little you get a poor/loose connection and insulator. Those generally have engineers put there side cutters through them and pushed into a passive, no consideration of a perfect connection. The same issue applies to your red yellow blue crimps however, I would only ever use a proper crimping tool with these for the connect conductor size. This provides the perfect crimp.

Just generally,. You want shocks more central, where contacts are more suited to the edges of the frames. Not saying there aren't places you can fit them just IMO separate units provide redundancy, make replacements easier and can be positioned more ideally for most scenarios. As for sound bombs I never have fitted or would never recommend them, horrible things. I said in your other post that I recommended replacing the supplied speaker for something like a CQR Alto.

You can't beat solder and heatshrink, both from function or aesthetics. I wouldn't recommend butt splices at all just asking for trouble, if nationals use them or not that's up to them but your just asking for high res issues.

I'd go for separate shocks and contacts, I find the combo units are rarely in the right place for either detection type.

You don't, the signal is not good enough. Try repositioning the sensor

Signal issues?

Probably same quality as the 9.70 one on the bay

Easily diagnosed by using the same cable out of the conduit.

Sounds about right for branded. If you can go up to 12x1000 I have seen branded ones for around 30 online. It's often cheaper to go a little wider as the length increases, I used to get 6x460 in SDS before they got so expensive but now find I use my 10x600 mostly

They are fairly expensive for good branded ones. Don't believe 800 is a size you can get, normally jump from 600 to 1000 long. As they get used rarely I have a couple of cheapish 3pc sets in 1m and 1.5m. I think they are 12, 16 and 24mm and where about £25 and £45 a little while back. When I say cheapish something like Silverline, Toolpak or Bluespot brand IIRC, top branded I wouldn't be surprised if they where 50-70 each?

If you have swapped everything around to test for faulty kit (looks like a possible faulty balun to me) I would then be trying to isolate the camera on a fresh battery to check for ground loop or voltage issues. If the camera is bolted straight onto the galv you may have a ground loop even tho you are running baluns. Doubt an STP (tho Cat 6 isn't STP as standard) or conduit would interfere with a single balun run.

I wouldn't recommend taking over a PX if you have never used them before. Also you will need to replace all the EOL modules and possibly some devices if you swap the controls.

They are the special parallel Guardall EOL's, highly doubt it would be faulty and could be tested with a meter.

Red for bed..

PIR type sensors should be mounted facing perpendicular to the risk not at it.

Maybe Bosch BluLine Pet DT's right through so you have options? You can then choose either pet alley mode or do perimeter protection in pet areas which is the preferred.