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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. I have never seen a high resistance issue on a soldered cable connection, whereas I have been to a few call outs (takeovers) for bad closed splices. Taking connection quality aside you still can't improve on soldering and shrink when it comes to the size of the completed connection either. There's also moisture protection with solder and shrink... it takes a little more time but if you must joint a cable it's worth the time to do it the best way possible. The ideal solution is replace the cable where possible obviously.
  2. Stuck in engineers because the battery is faulty? IIRC the display should show nothing with the day light on if unset and clear. System needs checking to may sure the charging circuit isn't faulty otherwise it's just going to damage a fresh battery.
  3. Exactly, any crimped connection has only friction to maintain a good connection (lowest resistance), even with the friction of the copper twisted together. Issue with crimped type connections is they rely on exact pressure over the crimps surface area to have perfect friction, too much pressure or unequal you get conductor damage and too little you get a poor/loose connection and insulator. Those generally have engineers put there side cutters through them and pushed into a passive, no consideration of a perfect connection. The same issue applies to your red yellow blue crimps however, I would only ever use a proper crimping tool with these for the connect conductor size. This provides the perfect crimp.
  4. Just generally,. You want shocks more central, where contacts are more suited to the edges of the frames. Not saying there aren't places you can fit them just IMO separate units provide redundancy, make replacements easier and can be positioned more ideally for most scenarios. As for sound bombs I never have fitted or would never recommend them, horrible things. I said in your other post that I recommended replacing the supplied speaker for something like a CQR Alto.
  5. You can't beat solder and heatshrink, both from function or aesthetics. I wouldn't recommend butt splices at all just asking for trouble, if nationals use them or not that's up to them but your just asking for high res issues.
  6. I'd go for separate shocks and contacts, I find the combo units are rarely in the right place for either detection type.
  7. You don't, the signal is not good enough. Try repositioning the sensor
  8. Probably same quality as the 9.70 one on the bay
  9. Easily diagnosed by using the same cable out of the conduit.
  10. Sounds about right for branded. If you can go up to 12x1000 I have seen branded ones for around 30 online. It's often cheaper to go a little wider as the length increases, I used to get 6x460 in SDS before they got so expensive but now find I use my 10x600 mostly
  11. They are fairly expensive for good branded ones. Don't believe 800 is a size you can get, normally jump from 600 to 1000 long. As they get used rarely I have a couple of cheapish 3pc sets in 1m and 1.5m. I think they are 12, 16 and 24mm and where about £25 and £45 a little while back. When I say cheapish something like Silverline, Toolpak or Bluespot brand IIRC, top branded I wouldn't be surprised if they where 50-70 each?
  12. If you have swapped everything around to test for faulty kit (looks like a possible faulty balun to me) I would then be trying to isolate the camera on a fresh battery to check for ground loop or voltage issues. If the camera is bolted straight onto the galv you may have a ground loop even tho you are running baluns. Doubt an STP (tho Cat 6 isn't STP as standard) or conduit would interfere with a single balun run.
  13. I wouldn't recommend taking over a PX if you have never used them before. Also you will need to replace all the EOL modules and possibly some devices if you swap the controls.
  14. They are the special parallel Guardall EOL's, highly doubt it would be faulty and could be tested with a meter.
  15. PIR type sensors should be mounted facing perpendicular to the risk not at it.
  16. Maybe Bosch BluLine Pet DT's right through so you have options? You can then choose either pet alley mode or do perimeter protection in pet areas which is the preferred.
  17. I only use Optex or Bosch myself therefore minimum quads as standard in any "living" rooms. Dualtech for harsher environment like garages etc. Sensors would normally cover a full 12mx12m room so two in one room is unnecessary unless you have blind spots. Consider ditching the tiny internal sounder built into the Poly cab and fitting a proper one elsewhere, something like a CQR Alto extension speaker or the like. Contacts minimum on any entry door others optional unless in pet areas. Wouldn't recommend glassbreak, better with shocks if your doing windows but consider bird strikes on large bi-folds and windows. If you have any sense your unlikely to have much of an issue screwing whatever to the wall it's the design, knowing how it all programs and fits together you would likely come unstuck on. Expect may hours of reading manuals, pressing buttons and terminology only alarm monkeys speak before you get something near working.
  18. CQR Pro https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/cqr-8-core-alarm-cable-white-p-738.html
  19. I would fit a Poly panel in this instance. I have used an expander for short wires but I fail to see how it would help in this case. While the Metal cab has more room inside looking at the distance from the cable entry to the PCB you would be better with the Poly Cab IMO.
  20. I wouldn't extend them there is enough there for a Premier. Just open up the plaster and containment for what you need then mount the panel to cover the hole.
  21. Thought the old school engineers did the spark and rattle test?... I think ACT is pretty much industry standard TBH, Yuasa one is a lot more expensive.
  22. Also I wouldn't bother with 4 or 6 any more. Much easier to standardise on 8C, spare cores can always be useful.
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