sixwheeledbeast

Another benefit of the Bosch is flexible mounting height even in pet setting.

1) Throws error after trying numbers for the amount of times set in programming indicating something is probably wrong with the line. Use coms diagnostic menu and/or butt phone to check. 2) Engineers reset is on for confirmed OOTB 3) Related to above switch it off. 4) If you have a Com2400 why is it set for Com300? This may relate to issue 1.

Probably

Maybe I misunderstand the issue but customer service should be provided by the installer.

I don't see an issue for charging for that service either, it's not like there aren't other options for remote on Texe. JL has said on here that other services will stay the same this is additional.

No. You need to be in front of the device to test during setup or adjustment. Remote adjustment offers nothing here IMO.

Depends on the job and the windows. End game is the customer is protected and happy with the system. Done a good few hybrid with shocks wireless and everything else wired. Many think your going to rip there house apart to get cables in and most times there is no need.

Yep and went bust with not many people knowing the code IIRC.

I suggest if you have not had the system looked over in a while to get someone to do a full service replace and batteries required and while there on site I am should they can change this to suit.

Probably it supports Pelco P and D

They are a commercial grade system designed to be fitted by trained installers. Its no surprise you would have difficulty if you don't understand the terminology used or what each menu means. If you are really lost I can only suggest you find an installer that maybe able to help you out. If you wish to continue with the DIY I would suggest you take a break from it and have a cuppa with a read of the FULL install manual if you are lucky enough to have a copy. To continue to give you DIY guidance you need to break the issue down into questions a bit more and would need to know more about the exact kit you purchased and how you wired it. Forget about the app it's not a consumer product like that, programming will be done via the keypad. Enrolling is covered in manuals you have to follow the exact procedure with the receiver in enroll mode otherwise devices will be ignored. Patience will be the key, if you read other threads on here even keen DIYers spend months asking questions before getting something close to working.

Just link them all like the white lines on the PCB

Whats on Zone 8? It's likely unrelated to the bellbox being a Zone

Wired in phone cable not great... Not only the Piezo wires but Test jumper on and battery jumper off also.

Terminals seem pretty self explanatory depends what you are doing with it.

Also additional note on the contacts I would keep the circuits separate unless it's required for multiple contacts on the the same opening door. I.E a double fire escape. Circuits on the same zone only provide you problems when there is a fault, it is general practice to keep them separate with a few caveats like above fire escape.

If you are talking about external sounder tampers they work completely differently. Very few have EOL resistors. Most are a closed loop that "sends" a negative through all the tamper circuits of the bells and brings them back as a "tamper return". Some external sounders have weird multiple tamper wiring configurations, you also need a SCB or LC compatible bell or extra PSU to have multiple of them. I would start a separate thread for your sounder issue with details of the models of kit and maybe pictures of the terminals.

You have the wrong contacts. Either use separate circuits or get contacts compatible with double door configuration. You can't just string them together to make up the values, shunt resistors need to be parallel with the detection reed and tamper is in series with the whole circuit (preferably at the furtherest point of the wiring). In using non standard values with the panel, you will often loose the ability for different wiring configurations as it's a workaround anyway.

Use quads as a minimum here as well. Same as above Optex or Bosch Bluline on the rare occasion I have to use a pet sensor. Consider many pet sensors mask or desensitise an area this can make them slow to respond in some environments. I fit Texecom controls and I never buy kits, they package the minimum stuff up for DIYers but there is never a job they fit well on, even some of the smaller kits. I purchase specific tested products from different manufacturers for the applications they go in, otherwise you may as well buy a kit from B&Q would be easier to install too.

When you purchase an alarm system from a company you are essentially buying a service not a product. The companies will support specific control panels for many reasons, they maybe knowledgable and trained with that manufacturer, have stock available at short notice the panel generally fits the companies operations in well established places. Asking someone to install a system they can't support or have no knowledge of is a bad idea, you will likely get a poorly installed system with at least teething problems. You honestly need to decide which route to take, are you DIYing or are you having it installed. If the latter then of your quotes go with the company you feel most comfortable with, forget about the brand (just make sure it's 2 way if wireless).

http://theintercept.com/2019/01/10/amazon-ring-security-camera/

Not for a 590 tho.

Sorry if you are disappointed with by comical remark (maybe more comical to people in the trade, I suppose). Unfortunately it's not a panel I would ever plan to install or takeover so I can offer minimal assistance with what you have posted so far. I look after very little Risco stuff and I'd like to keep it that way, they are pretty horrid to work on as mentioned above. Did the system failure happen at a specific time? As you seem to consider a cable fault maybe possible, unusual on a fairly new system unless installed poorly. Maybe start with wiring the keypad on a new short test lead to the controls and power up again? This is assuming you have a manual and programming access to not lock the panel out (engineer reset on tamper)

A system that you press enter and it Installs itself... maybe it will catch on.

Again manufacturers will use different chips depending on there functions. I think I mentioned in a previous thread about RonJs circuits but it depends on what your plan is to achieve. RonJ's circuits are a great start for good features from basic components, if you want to get more complex then I think using a SBC like Arduino will be more flexible for you and have greater scope in the long run. One benefit of using a SBC is if the project is a failure you can easily re-purpose for the next challenge, much better than having random chips on the shelf that will never be used. It depends on what you want the project to do, the best and most satisfying projects are the ones with practical applications. Equally you can always set yourself a task to complete. The link in my last post has code examples for an Arduino keypad, the keypad uses a grid membrane. A challenge could be to make a functional LCD keypad unit that will transmit to your Arduino over a 6 core alarm cable, for example. This challenge will need you to make a circuit to encode a membrane grid, transmit then decode it for the Arduinos inputs much like what we spoke about with the Accenta. You can design whatever protocol or transmission you like. As you say I see no problem in starting with your idea of a keyswitch alarm using Arduino and take it from there, maybe I have given you some ideas.