sixwheeledbeast

So you need only one Area and one Part Set within that Area. Hall will be Access Zone Type. Quick Arm is in keypad Options and you press Area.

Why do I want something listening to everything I say to offer a reaction? People have lost the idea of automation. Devices should know what to do automatically, I don't need a pet.

North American market AFAIK. I still see most of this stuff as a gimmick, with the potential for security issues. Most automation I would use can be done either via custom outputs on an alarm or simple relays, contactors, photocells and timers. Anything more fancy I would consider looking at GPIO on a SBC, at least you can ensure the thing you connect to the internet is up to date with the latest security patches.

...or just over saturated with other brands of voice activated tat. https://hardware.slashdot.org/story/18/11/28/0332219/lowes-to-sell-off-its-under-performing-iris-smart-home-automation-business

It wouldn't be normal for an installer to give out the engineers code, other systems may use the same one so for security reasons it would be kept private to that installer. Depending on the situation installer may come out to default the code (FOC or more likely for a call out fee). Unless the panel has a locked NVM you wouldn't need the engineering code to switch your maintenance. Anyway before all that the first port of call is to check on the SSAIB website that the company in question is SSAIB approved. If they are not report them to SSAIB for this false claim. As above you should contact SSAIB if you don't get the service you expect, it's in SSAIB's interests to have your certificate issued to it's likely to get resolved quickly. The benefit of using an approved company is you can contact the Inspectorate if you are unhappy with any outcome of any complaints regarding the company. Same for either SSAIB or NSI approved companies.

Police see it as a waste of time taking most CCTV evidence to court, especially if the perp has a good barrister. Seems to mostly be used as part of other supporting evidence. Fitted a couple of systems as part of a joint LA/Police scheme in an area, they collected evidence over several months before they would even consider court proceedings. DIY stuff you may as well save your money, your unlikely to get a clear enough image of anything useful and will certainly not stand up in court. This tat provides a false sense of security, that may lead to you being less secure.

DIY tat, all sold as a gimmick.

Like a thick black potting compound the ones I recall

Think of the wires as pairs... You need them in pairs, so test them in pairs.

All the SAB modules I used in the past where dipped, surprised to see one without. Should have a 15 minutes cut off to conform, you don't want the council charging you for getting a summons to silence your bell. The basic circuits on Ron's site are not designed to connect to intruder style bells, maybe adapt the circuit so the relay contact sinks a -ve via the alarm panel when coil is active? The other feature bells have is they self activate when the tamper is opened (hence the term Self Activating Bell). If you are going basic with the charging you could use a LM317T to set the voltage then use a 1 Watt resistor in series like you say. Issue being it will only keep the battery "a float" while the battery is charged. To charge a battery that has been drained you ideally need a constant current with a higher voltage than operational voltage; it would take forever or may not fully recharge otherwise.

Most alarms send a -ve back to the panel via a microswitch (hence the phrase "tamper return"). Either way IMO it would make sense for the field wiring to terminate to the PCB (for service and fitting reasons) even if you are just soldering a microswitch off the back.

I'd keep the spares for future. i agree with H either:- *the keypad is not mapped *the zones are the wrong zone type *the detectors have the wrong values set *the cable is damaged Time to get the meter out and check all the connections.

So no anti-tamper protection?

Would normally be a single -ve applied for the trig.

Possibly an SCB, from looking at the traces in the photos. Battery negative runs into the contact of the relay? Says Leyland on the buses but they don't all go there...

Yes, a 4047. I find a 555 much more flexible in a smaller package. You are right tho it's the right chip for a 50% duty cycle multivibrator. I was thinking of a 7.2V NiCd/NiMH like most alarm bells do. While it is listed as Li-ion charger circuit it would be suitable for other cells. Actually, I would say it's more suited to Ni cells.

You mean 555 timer? Coupled to a 4017 if you needed 3-10 scrolling LED's, like Night Rider effect. I ask because i would have used a 555 and CR network for and astable, it's such a useful IC to have in your parts bin. 10K, 10K, 47uF in the CR network is pretty close to 1Hz, handy values to have when your breadboarding stuff out. Sometimes it's fun to use what you have around.

I doubt a picture of an SAB module would be much help, most are painted and you wouldn't be able to work out the traces. I also wouldn't expect for the alarm you are making you need to go into that much depth either. This is a circuit with some basic components (including my favourite the 555) that you may want to look at for a charging circuit. http://www.edutek.ltd.uk/Binaries/Circuits/Li-ion_battery_charger.pdf The Op-Amp need 3V head minimum, so if your charging a 7.2V NiCd on a 12Vdc supply you will be fine to adjust the values to suit. I assume you used a CD4069 Hex Inverter chip for your flasher?

Replaced a few with Optex LX series in the past, if you need replacement.

NAT loopback is provided or can be enabled on some routers to allow a LAN address to access a server/port that is forwarded to your WAN. Some consumer end routers may have a firmware upgrade that will enable it, like some Netgears. Higher end stuff it may work OOTB or need to be setup or switched on manually. Basically avoid cheap ISP provided routers.

Should really be dual streams to stop this, so record at the best for the LAN setup on domestic that straight forward. Then other low quality stream for WAN connection so you don't use all the upstream bandwidth. There's a lot more than throwing it on the wall if you want it to work with no issues.

Sounds like it could be a lash in, even if the kit is any good? Looks like Hik copy/rebrand to me... 2MP-4MP is more than suitable for most domestic setups. Don't buy security on price, get quotes from several places and go with the one you are most comfortable with most likely not the cheapest.

Yes Normally 20mm QB

Do not switch the mains fuse off, you will only trigger the bell eventually when the hold off voltage drops. Battery will be unlikely to last any period of time. Get some replacement fuses of the correct size and replace them. You can then silence the system with your temporary repair. Any tampers would only trigger the system internally if the system its unset. Strobe may also flash until tamper is cleared.

What use is a keyholder in the south of France?