sixwheeledbeast

I suggest if you have not had the system looked over in a while to get someone to do a full service replace and batteries required and while there on site I am should they can change this to suit.

Probably it supports Pelco P and D

They are a commercial grade system designed to be fitted by trained installers. Its no surprise you would have difficulty if you don't understand the terminology used or what each menu means. If you are really lost I can only suggest you find an installer that maybe able to help you out. If you wish to continue with the DIY I would suggest you take a break from it and have a cuppa with a read of the FULL install manual if you are lucky enough to have a copy. To continue to give you DIY guidance you need to break the issue down into questions a bit more and would need to know more about the exact kit you purchased and how you wired it. Forget about the app it's not a consumer product like that, programming will be done via the keypad. Enrolling is covered in manuals you have to follow the exact procedure with the receiver in enroll mode otherwise devices will be ignored. Patience will be the key, if you read other threads on here even keen DIYers spend months asking questions before getting something close to working.

Just link them all like the white lines on the PCB

Whats on Zone 8? It's likely unrelated to the bellbox being a Zone

Wired in phone cable not great... Not only the Piezo wires but Test jumper on and battery jumper off also.

Terminals seem pretty self explanatory depends what you are doing with it.

Also additional note on the contacts I would keep the circuits separate unless it's required for multiple contacts on the the same opening door. I.E a double fire escape. Circuits on the same zone only provide you problems when there is a fault, it is general practice to keep them separate with a few caveats like above fire escape.

If you are talking about external sounder tampers they work completely differently. Very few have EOL resistors. Most are a closed loop that "sends" a negative through all the tamper circuits of the bells and brings them back as a "tamper return". Some external sounders have weird multiple tamper wiring configurations, you also need a SCB or LC compatible bell or extra PSU to have multiple of them. I would start a separate thread for your sounder issue with details of the models of kit and maybe pictures of the terminals.

You have the wrong contacts. Either use separate circuits or get contacts compatible with double door configuration. You can't just string them together to make up the values, shunt resistors need to be parallel with the detection reed and tamper is in series with the whole circuit (preferably at the furtherest point of the wiring). In using non standard values with the panel, you will often loose the ability for different wiring configurations as it's a workaround anyway.

Use quads as a minimum here as well. Same as above Optex or Bosch Bluline on the rare occasion I have to use a pet sensor. Consider many pet sensors mask or desensitise an area this can make them slow to respond in some environments. I fit Texecom controls and I never buy kits, they package the minimum stuff up for DIYers but there is never a job they fit well on, even some of the smaller kits. I purchase specific tested products from different manufacturers for the applications they go in, otherwise you may as well buy a kit from B&Q would be easier to install too.

When you purchase an alarm system from a company you are essentially buying a service not a product. The companies will support specific control panels for many reasons, they maybe knowledgable and trained with that manufacturer, have stock available at short notice the panel generally fits the companies operations in well established places. Asking someone to install a system they can't support or have no knowledge of is a bad idea, you will likely get a poorly installed system with at least teething problems. You honestly need to decide which route to take, are you DIYing or are you having it installed. If the latter then of your quotes go with the company you feel most comfortable with, forget about the brand (just make sure it's 2 way if wireless).

http://theintercept.com/2019/01/10/amazon-ring-security-camera/

Not for a 590 tho.

Sorry if you are disappointed with by comical remark (maybe more comical to people in the trade, I suppose). Unfortunately it's not a panel I would ever plan to install or takeover so I can offer minimal assistance with what you have posted so far. I look after very little Risco stuff and I'd like to keep it that way, they are pretty horrid to work on as mentioned above. Did the system failure happen at a specific time? As you seem to consider a cable fault maybe possible, unusual on a fairly new system unless installed poorly. Maybe start with wiring the keypad on a new short test lead to the controls and power up again? This is assuming you have a manual and programming access to not lock the panel out (engineer reset on tamper)

A system that you press enter and it Installs itself... maybe it will catch on.

Again manufacturers will use different chips depending on there functions. I think I mentioned in a previous thread about RonJs circuits but it depends on what your plan is to achieve. RonJ's circuits are a great start for good features from basic components, if you want to get more complex then I think using a SBC like Arduino will be more flexible for you and have greater scope in the long run. One benefit of using a SBC is if the project is a failure you can easily re-purpose for the next challenge, much better than having random chips on the shelf that will never be used. It depends on what you want the project to do, the best and most satisfying projects are the ones with practical applications. Equally you can always set yourself a task to complete. The link in my last post has code examples for an Arduino keypad, the keypad uses a grid membrane. A challenge could be to make a functional LCD keypad unit that will transmit to your Arduino over a 6 core alarm cable, for example. This challenge will need you to make a circuit to encode a membrane grid, transmit then decode it for the Arduinos inputs much like what we spoke about with the Accenta. You can design whatever protocol or transmission you like. As you say I see no problem in starting with your idea of a keyswitch alarm using Arduino and take it from there, maybe I have given you some ideas.

It's not about buying it tho, it's about what you can learn from making it. Many of the questions Gabs has asked are about reverse engineering and trying to understand what and why, I think that's a good thing. Practical engineering skills seem to be at a low across all fields, I'd imagine many of the employers here will be thinking Gabs could make a better engineer than some they have had on the books for years.

All systems are different, manufacturers will have there own protocols to suit there kit. Galaxy is a standard 485 bus for example, some maybe clock and data or Wiegand derived like the majority of access control, there are many more ways it's all down to the manufacturer. I suppose I have a fairly broad knowledge of a few things computing and electronics being one, some from school and college but a lot self taught. They have always my thing. Back in the days of C&G 1851, data transmission methods where part of the security system exam, not sure if this is still the case. I certainly have never done anything near a professional layout or designed panel but built a good few different circuits on stripboard in my time. What you can learn now with the relative cost of SBC's like Arduino and RPi is a lot more is based on GPIO and code, over the logic with discretes and IC's that I started on. I can only suggest you start basic adding functionality as you go on, if that be in logic gates or whatever code you choose. Make a sensor trigger a sounder. Then make able to be armed and disarmed. Then eventually work up to security of the transmission and tamper protection. Here is a link you may find useful about the way a keypad would work from my post above for example http://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-set-up-a-keypad-on-an-arduino/ As you can see the computing power of an SBC is many times greater that of the Accenta you have on the bench so it's quite different practically.

Ah yes you are correct about the tamper loop, although the theory is still correct. Have a look into NRZ serial transmission for other benefits of having the line high all the time. Also think about what could happen if there was an intermittent short on the multi cored cable for example. Transmitting decimal numbers via a type of pulsing binary is very inefficient. Your too young to remember how long it took to dial 999 on a pulse phone... You can send a hex value in a nibble, for example this would cover all 15 keys no problem, but imagine an easier ways using rows and columns which keypads generally are. As an example, divide your keypad into col (1-3) and row (1-5). that's 3x5 each axis (We will start counting at 1 here not 0). Send binary X, binary Y and a check and/or stop bit, all can be done with binary in a bytes worth of data. Key 0 001 001 1 0 Key 1 001 010 1 0 ... key 7 010 011 0 1 ... Key Prog 011 100 0 1 Key Set 011 101 1 0 All the keys would be sent in the same amount of time as sending an 8 via pulse. Using BCD you could likely make that smaller again, the lesser amount of bits needed to transmit to get the message over the quicker the communication.

Having never attacked an Accenta with a scope before I am just theorising, however... On a Accenta you have one signal line for data transmission therefore the transmission is serial. As you say there are no separate Clock and Data lines to avoid data collision but what's to say a single non-zero return (NRZ) signal cannot be two way? You could still transfer signals asymmetrically, maybe down to encoding for example, you could have a stop (handover) bit. The last bit on the scope images seems similar so this maybe the handshake bit for the reply or even the actual handover of the supply. Both will need the ability to drive 5V signals to each other, although I would imagine the keypad will supply it most of the time. That way if the voltage is missing (hence using NRZ) for a period of time the keypad could be declined offline and tampered. If you think about it these non-LCD basic alarm keypads are fairly dumb, they sit and wait for input so in most cases the messages to be sent towards the panel are call and response (the response changing/updating the display with data from panel). The only time the panel would need to call the keypad into action (send data the keypads way) would be in an alarm situation, hmm I wonder what that sound wire could also be used for...

I fail to see the difference between a remote and app for controlling the TV. In fact I would say it's more convenient to have an IR remote that can stay in the room and not have to jump through account registration, privacy policy and biometrics tripe to setup a new TV. As for the lights, I see point in having different themes and modes for a large house so something like Lutron makes sense. In reality you need lights for occupancy and lights for presence either of these can be done without a Smart app as I posted above. In using OpenHAB you have no concerns of privacy leakage via third parties, I would say that's worth the setup time, I agree that many of the public would disagree however that's up to them. It's supply and demand with these smart devices, if Amazon/Google/Whoever make a product that is easy and anyone can use, then that is a larger consumer base to obtain and sell analytical data from. This allows them to make new product to keep demand thriving. Lazy is the wrong way to look at it IMO. Automation should be a network suite of tools for efficiency, not the height of laziness. At this point the term "smart-*" is far from smart.

Be a good idea to have it checked over if it's hasn't been looked at in years. Battery and possibly PSU will be shot if it's never been serviced. Don't want it waking all the neighbours up at 3am. You can change the user code yourself if you can enter the code to get into the menu.

Kinda makes me think this isn't UK. I'd say smoke screen system is a good way forward.

More expensive than a half decent sounder from SW?