sixwheeledbeast

Gardtec 595 Engineers Guide View File Gardtec 595 Engineers Guide Submitter sixwheeledbeast Submitted 15/08/18 Category Risco / Gardtec

Had issues with Pyronix in the past for example. Would be down to the electronics.

As I said above some bells don't like it, depends on the bell.

Running another cable would always be the preferred option. Alternatively wireless, not having a strobe connected or commoning the strobe and bell trig. Latter can have issues with some boxes. I certainly wouldn't install something without a tamper, also consider that four core maybe very old (you may not know how its routed) if you loose a core in the future your back to square one.

So "Grade B" Mains interlinked would be Grade D, so not good enough for building control due to being over 200m2. You need to speak to a fire alarm installer, they would be able to liaise with building control about the Grade and Category if required.

You can't do engineer functions from the user menu

I would guess you are in the user menu trying to do engineer functions.

Who has asked for this "Class B" fire alarm? Are you in the UK? Bear in mind a Premier is an intruder alarm system with an option for a fire zone type therefore not a "fire alarm system" as such.

Considering the post is 14 years old and a lot has changed on the site since then, I am not surprised the links no longer work.

Texecom Connect will be compatible with IP cameras in the future I believe. It was suggested you keep the systems separate above. I would place any Swann or DIY grade CCTV system you buy straight in the bin, it would be less hassle for everyone. Interesting to us in the know, how there is concern for security of the alarm components you are buying but a budget off the shelf consumer product is expected to be plug and play secure.

Bell and Strobe outputs would normally be Neg applied.

Yes There wouldn't be less wires depending on the site and how its installed. Reflection wouldn't be reliable or secure.

If it's looked after some of the older controls where solid. I would guess a couple of tweaks back and forth on the entry timer pot would sort the Logic 4. Tones on the old TS where great, I remember later models having options for classic entry tones too.

It's all relative. Continuing the car analogy... You could have a shiny new alarm for the cost of a dealer service. Also cars worth over 1k wouldn't likely be as old as this Accenta.

Map 6 was like a latching universal zone expander so you could expander one control panel zone into 6 devices.

The service is because it's been a non-maintained system so checks would need to be done, part of this would be to diagnose the fault and get the system operational. Having a service and repair is more cost effective in the long run than someone resetting your PA for the cost of a call out. If your alarm system sounds when isolating the power it clearly shows the system hasn't been serviced in a good while and the battery will be dead. Expect an incoming approved company to recommend a panel upgrade and service contract too.

No, Active IR is line of sight they would need installing where the line of sight would only be blocked by an intruder. I would be installing them to an intruder alarm panel then you can arm and disarm and have somewhere to terminate and diagnose the zones if a fault occurred.

As above really. Seems like the system is locked out either in Tamper or PA. You would need to clear the fault before it will then reset. I would recommend you have someone service the system, replace the batteries, check everything over and reprogram it to your needs.

I am sure pros would just have a crack at it Scannys are pretty basic, if desperate could default and reprogram in 15 minutes. It's normally recommended to down power controls before removing BUS devices.

Please don't repost the same question. Try a power cycle, yes.

Alarms require service, systems are made of parts that need maintenance. Batteries that need replacing regularly, components that need testing for correct operation. It's possible the transformer was blown by the controls or a surge has blown both, battery damaged the charging circuit and endless list of issues that could be wrong. Either way it's simply not worth the effort of sourcing and replacing the transformer on such a basic panel. If you were to try you would have to source second hand and hope for the best. Most likely engineers would skip a working one, so your unlikely to find one.

Can you please not use all caps it makes it difficult to read. If your Accord has never been serviced in that time, the control panel is likely shot and needs replacement.

Likely the cladding is moving with heat expansion. Microwave can only help minimise false alarms if device is fixed to a solid surface.