sixwheeledbeast

All done with consumer tech tho. Nothing featured was specialist hardware wise. They have obviously given them enough information to make it viable in the time frame, for the first example. SSID and key length information greatly reduces the time required to crack.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0b50191 Worth a watch if you haven't already, most will be common knowledge to trade members here. Example of hacking a smart home with interesting use of exploiting Alexa via a smart TV. Highlighting the issue with keyless entry for cars. Baby monitors and CCTV streaming sites and Secure by Design code of practice.

Standby current is equally important for battery duration this should be calculated from your battery size with tolerance for ageing. In alarm current I would want to keep a decent margin lower than maximum load as a bit of tolerance. You also have to consider how much current the panel uses to charge it's own battery after a power outage and power itself. All PSU's in the system need to be at the same potential so they will need a wire between them as I mentioned above.

I've never fitted soundbombs, theyre pants. Trigger may take the load depends on the panel. Relays should be transistorised. Maybe using a compatible SCB box would save the hassle with the PSU and commoning neg's. Have you checked your "capacity", I assume you have standby and alarm current values to calculate your battery standby time?

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40636-arfur-mo/

IMO there is not enough tolerance with 1k/1k. Seems to be common issue on Galaxy to have intermittent hi/low res faults compared to other resistor configurations. Not to say reed switches don't go faulty.

You will definitely need to get into engineers mode to program these out. I suggest you look for an engineer that supports Risco, or alternatively have an engineer replace and upgrade your system with there preferred shiny new stuff. The panel could be locked so it maybe destined for the bin anyway.

All down to if it's wired DP or EOL. More systems are wired EOL, inverting the wires shouldn't make a difference so maybe something is loose/shorting out. Selectable you will have to make sure they are compatible with your panel normally you cut a link within them, or you can get ones with screw terminals which you can fit your resistors in.

Four wires = Double Pole Wiring, Two WIres = FSL aka EOL wiring. You will need to copy the configuration like in your photo making sure the resistors are in the same positions, hopefully they are not too corroded. Many fit contacts with built in resistors now, less to break or go wrong but are bought to be compatible with the installed systems resistor values.

Every box will be labelled different, so would have to see panel and box to give wiring instructions. If your current box is functional I would leave it, no point in paying twice if the incoming company use there own as standard. IMO give the backlight a miss or disable it, they look pants, emit pointless light pollution and can give you planning permission issues.

If you are not doing it yourself then leave it up to the installer to decide on the best panel and bellbox for the job.

Your looking at either rewiring, BUS compatible system or an iD Expander. I consider that the wiring is normally manky old 4 core and would go for the first where feasible. You said "staff" so it's commercial and probably easier to rewire than mess about. If you have defaulted the system has the volume been changed so they can no longer hear the exit tones?

Lol, I would hope so, doing this for a living... Personally I fit Bosch BluLine Quads in pet applications because I have good results with them especially for cats. Given the choices I'd choose a DT Pet over a Std PIR Pet. The sensors wouldn't have to be the same brand if you have a wired system and therefore yes they should be completely compatible with the new controls. Could be a number of reasons for the issue, but it would be very unlucky for all the sensors to fail at the same time. Some pet sensors can be slow as you are basically desensitising the PIR. If it's just one or two they maybe faulty or incorrectly setup, if the devices have been disturbed height adjustment maybe off, accidentally covered in wallpaper paste, environmental issue... List goes on, hard to say without seeing it.

Pet friendly sensors are normally considered a workaround, it's best practice to use perimeter protection or try to limit the location of the pets. If I do fit pet friendly sensors as a last option or retrofit, I use Bosch which I can switch pet on and off, never fitted Orisec ones.

I would use a Quad PIR as standard for normal domestic rooms. DT's would normally be used in harsher environments where temperature would be less stable, i.e. a garage. Hard to pass opinion without seeing the job but that's not to say DT's are unsuitable, I have mostly DT's myself.

Difficult to understand what you have been told and what has happened without been on site. Sounds to me like an auxiliary voltage output has blown, not the "PSU", hopefully the alternative unused supply is rated for the same current and is fused. Either way it sounds like a workaround the panel is damaged in this case, so replacement would be a good idea.

Contact is only a zone and tamper pair and has no device power. I would have expected a blown fuse if you shorted wires replacing a PIR, my only thought would be the fuse was replace for an incorrect size.

Sensible decision.

Any type of contact could work If you can fit within the operational gap but the push in "pencil style" are normally the most aesthetic on alu. I keep a few GE ones handy (1078). A picture of the door maybe handy if you need more advise on a surface fit.

It's depends on what the deal is with the contractor and how you have charged for the job. If you have charged for the whole project then it would be expected to be "made good" as part of the project, within reason like any other trades on site. There should be a reasonable margin on a job to cover any cock ups by yourself or more likely other trades. Having a first and second fix as separate projects would be different but it's best to have this sort of thing agreed before hand so your extra time would be covered at least. You also have to consider how proving who caused the damage, pointing fingers and being forceful may influence chances of getting any work from them again. It's possible all the trades know each other and give each other work, word travels fast and your unlikely to see them again.

We do not share installer manuals here for security reasons. However, your "system" is an old DIY store effort that people here are unlikely to be able to help you with. I would suggest if the house is rented you contact your landlord about it, before doing anything.

Port forwarding would open internet traffic on that port to your device, while allowing your CCTV to function you are also opening an attack route into your network. You would be relying on your CCTV recorder to protect your network from attack for as long as it's connected to the internet. It would be recommended to use a good quality router/firewall and a VLAN/DMZ with port forwarding or setup a VPN for best security.

TMD's are not suitable for harsh environments IMO. I wouldn't fit them at all, I have never rated them myself but that's beside the point. I would be using a separate area or a 24Hr group with two DT's (assuming confirmed) and protection on the door myself.

C&G/NVQ is more catered to day release, work based learning. It's mostly around theory, regs and paperwork side, very little hands on. If your competent you will be bored but learn a little, if incompetent you will likely doss off and have a chance at passing.

Grandfather rights seem to get you places in this industry. Unfortunate for those that are actually "qualified", as essentially your shiny certificate means very little. That's not to say a fresh engineer with quals can be put straight on the job or would be better. You certainly learn a whole lot more on the job, with the caveat you are paired with a good engineer for a while.