sixwheeledbeast

You been Hobnobbing again?

Great thing about WD is you can check your Serial Numbers are valid and within warranty date online. https://support.wdc.com/warranty/

Well maybe you'll survive on the dark side...

Forgetting about the "quality" and "brand" of the gear ... 4mm fixed lens isn't going to be suitable for this type of thing. I have always used WD Drives and WD Purples are pretty standard for 24/7 on applications. Generally I feel your wasting your time trying to point a camera onto public property, using neighbours walls, into a place you can't guarantee you will park on. The footage you will get will be pretty minimal too as it's side on and unlikely to identify anything. I get the feeling most companies would walk away from this job possibly why you are getting so little feedback.

Microwaves will both penetrate and reflect back from surfaces, the reflected signals are processed to detect changes. Ultrasound will penetrate thin surfaces (for example a sonograph) but most if not all would be absorbed or reflected by surfaces when used in a detector.Ultrasonic went out of favour and replaced with other technologies like IR and MW due to health concerns. Any detection method that could penetrate outside of the protected area would normally be in a combination detector now (a DT or Dual-Tech), the other technology being passive infrared as the idea is to detect movement only within the area you are protecting. Installers would adjust and test the MW range on detectors they fit to avoid false alarms.

Some microwaves will pass through walls but the sensors are not designed to "detect" through the wall. Is this a theoretical question or can you explain what you are trying to do/work out?

Also I am certain the Ministry of Transport are more interested in Diesel emissions than old domestic alarm panels. You can put an advise on everything and slam a new battery in it but it's on borrowed time and won't stop it letting you down on the motorway.

Mess of wiring, tape covering joints, 10 zones on 8 zone panel and seems to have no tampers. Burn marks around R69, D1, D3 and D13 indicate the panels PSU has probably been overloaded and the components will be tired. If it was a decent system in good order it would be worth looking after, but I'd rip it out myself TBH.

10 devices on a 8 zone panel? Prices would vary depending on who you get and your location. Also would depend if you have agreed a fixed price for the job or if you will be charged a call out/per hour. I'd contact some local companies to get a rough idea, that doesn't mean to say you should necessarily choose the cheapest.

Part of the issue is you don't really use the car often enough I suppose. From what I can tell the bay is only restricted during the day but I can understand you maybe unlikely to get a space outside of those times. Certainly advise you don't block parking with cones or the like as this is considered as obstructing the highway and could lead to a Fixed Penalty Notice. I actually agree with Norm, I am sure the insurance would favour a lock-up over on street parking maybe any savings on the insurance could be put towards that. If you really want to park your car in front of your house you could knock the front wall out and apply for a dropped kerb which would mean they would have to adjust the bay then. Unfortunately this would likely be refused if there is not enough distance from the property to the pavement, normally a car length; so may not be an option. As for your query on car cams they use a small amount of current but may drain the battery over a longer period time if you don't regularly use the vehicle. The solution to this would be a separate battery just for the camera unit that would be charged via some sort of split charge setup. No footage if the battery goes flat but at least you can start your car.

I don't believe anyone here could recommend any DIY Kits like Swann and Sannce or the places you are looking to purchase from. Generally the cable provided in DIY kits is like string, PSU's that burn out and overall will offer a headache and a false sense of security. I would suggest you look at the ICO website https://ico.org.uk/ about the regulations for CCTV systems, data protection and how a camera pointing into a public area would effect you, before even considering installing. CAT5e with baluns or RG59+2C would both be appropriate for analogue signals, however many have been using CAT5e solutions as standard for a while now. I can't work out if you are looking to DIY (fit it yourself) from your post? Sounds like a small car incident camera maybe most suitable here, I would also try asking the council about providing residents parking for the bay or reducing the time the bay is active, unlikely looking at it but worth a try.

Guardall PX would imagine Chubb firmware and POTD.

Brother HL-3170CDW would be the newer duplex version of my colour laser which has been solid over the years. Friend of mine has a MFC-9340CDW and has been pretty happy with it, not sure how much he's used the duplexer mind. I normally avoid anything Lexmark myself, from past experience. I was also going to ask if SOHO use?

Recommissioning would be the term used, in answer to your right language question.

Alarms don't just least 10 years with no maintenance they really need more regular service than that, normally annually. I would say you have been lucky not to have an issue with it. Inside most likely the battery has gone faulty (life expectancy 4 years), it may have damaged the changing circuit. Premia is a pretty old panel now long since discontinued I recall it being a pretty cheap domestic panel at the time. So it's likely many will recommend an upgrade re-using the wiring. You should contact some local companies and ask about pricing for a service and what they include in that price. Many companies would also prefer to use there own stock (the battery) as they wouldn't be willing to warranty an item you purchased. Feel free to browse our installers forum http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/ the NSI https://www.nsi.org.uk/ and SSAIB https://ssaib.org if you cannot contact the original installer or have anyone recommended to you.

I just want to also point out that a Grade 2 system doesn't mean the signalling is Grade 2. I wouldn't be happy with an upto 25 hour response time upon a failure. We are not certain what type of signalling this unknown Dualcom product is or anything about this GPRS device its being compared against, hence my questions above. Not having all the information it's not fair for anyone here to make a decision like that, we can advise on the type of kit etc but only you will know the one that suits you and your property.

Companies will use there preferred kit and opinions will vary on that kit, so it's not that clear. It is true that some maybe better than others but really here you are buying a service. You could have the "best gear" installed by an untrained engineer and it will likely perform poorly. I assume you are looking at wireless systems if you have been quoted for a Powermaster. The important thing to find out here is the how all the wireless equipment talks to the controls, "two-way" and "mesh" being preferred over "one-way". When comparing signalling, the number and type of paths plus the grade is something to ask about. Also did you ask about who owns the kit, warranty and what is included in the ongoing charges? Many properties in the UK don't have signalling or police response but it would be down to the risk and cost, a signalling system would provide more protection for your property but the cost would be higher. Sounds like you have spoken to the insurance, have you clarified with them what you need too? Hopefully some of these questions will help you come to a conclusion but feel free to post any other queries.

I see no issue with having perimeter shocks in a separate group only generating an unconfirmed. Some of the multi contact shock devices use the same zone so wouldn't be able to confirm. I would think it's more the case of knowing if the door is closed on setting and if the door is opened without vibration.

Inertias normally have an analyser before connecting to the system. Texecom have a zone response option for zones, I have seen used with inertias in the past. No idea if that's an option that would work for you or on your preferred controls.

You can't flash a powered down panel. There are certain caveats on some versions of firmware but it's similar rules as flashing/updating any device firmware. If major version change you will need to default. Sounders may sound for a second or so when switching between Prog and Run.

With the leads in the same position and battery connected switch the mains off, monitor for 15 minutes or more and then the same with the mains back on. The float charge will drop quickly then voltage will drop slowly. When the mains is reapplied it should increase steady to the value of your initial readings in a similar amount of time. Not an accurate current reading but will show if the panel is charging the battery As for a replacement and your cabling, an expander module could be used in the loft and the controls moved or alternatively wireless or hybrid somehow. Lots of options and solutions available.

Voltage checks would be done parallel to the circuit and current checks would be done in series with the circuit. You MUST have your meter leads plugged in the correct ports for both tests or you will blow either the meter or the panel. The 19Vac is the transformer voltage to the control panel not the system voltage which should be a stable DC voltage measured from the control panel. You may simply have bought a cheap battery and it's failed however, panels that consume batteries quickly normally have a problem. A simple step would be to have your meter on DC Voltage (red lead in V), and test in parallel (so Red-Red, Blk-Blk) the voltage across the battery leads with and without the battery. If the above makes no sense or you don't feel competent, its time to call in an engineer. There are mains voltages in there remember. FWIW I wouldn't expect to use a scope to diagnose that kind of component fault. If its a component it would likely be in the power supply circuit, so maybe voltage regulator most likely an LM317. Even if replaced the rest of the components are of a similar age so not worth the effort IMO.

There are no fuses on the old Scanny boards and it wouldn't be a fuse causing that type of fault. It's unlikely anyone would repair something down to component level, anyone up to that task would probably have an idea where to start. Did you check the charging current, system and battery voltages with a meter?

It's possible the system is failing and not charging the battery correctly. You would need to check this with a multimeter, this would normally be done as part of a service and before fitting a new battery.

What type of signalling and settings? Do you have Enable Digi checked On?