sixwheeledbeast

That is correct most systems will have anti-tamper protection on all the devices. Sounds like you have reset it for now. For audible only domestic would expected to get it checked out annually.

Code # ? Alarms need regular maintenance what you have described is common for an unmaintained alarm. If you want to use it I would recommend having it serviced to make sure you are not disturbed in the early hours again. Alternatively if you are not planning on using it, have someone come out an decommission it properly.

Normally this would indicate a tamper fault at the bell but difficult to confirm that diagnosis without inspection. When was the last time the system was serviced?

This thread is a bit of a ramble that lasted over a month, also a few years old now but worth a read and may help you answer a few questions. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40567-pyronix-homecontrol-vs-visonic-powermax/

First question is do you think you are capable of completing the job, we have had many DIY installers pass through here and struggle to install or program there systems. Do you have the time and/or patience to mess around for getting your system operational, if not consider getting a few quotes. Secondly is there a reason for looking at wireless systems, many systems can be easily and discretely wired if you know what you are doing. Regarding the systems you have asked about, they are both different types of system Pyronix being a wireless system whereas Texecom having lots of hybrid options. I would also install a system with a separate keypad where possible. Your question regarding the Texecom equipment is a bit vague, there are lots of different options for alerts depending on the model. No transmission modules are included with any of the Texecom panels so you can decide which is best for the job. Do note no "private reporting" system is as secure as a monitored system where the transmission path is polled regularly to check its operation. Anything is easy when you know what you are doing, I imagine from a DIY POV Pyronix being more plug and play whereas Texecom has loads of options still doesn't mean either can be installed easily with no knowledge.

Possible but with programming and some caveats... Firstly, current you need to do some current calculations to make sure your standby battery for the controls can last one activation and 12 hours, this will affect how you design the system. Secondly, SAB on a expander is possible on a Texe they have a input that can be programmed as tamper return on the wired expanders. However, you have the issue of the bell sharing voltage with the rest of the network so be aware of voltage drop, I would personally only use this for an extra SCB myself. Lastly keypad zones need mapping to a "real" zone so make sure you have enough zones.

If I understand the question correctly there is no other wire. The tamper wire is a return to the control box sent from the bellbox, normally a negative the panel is looking for.

Without restoring power to the system and entering your code, there is no easy way to disable the alarm, they are intentionally designed this way.

Definitely tamper microswitch the three fixings bottom right as norm, lid screw holding the tamper leaf closed.

If you are not sure, get three quotes go with the company you feel most comfortable with.

This Verisure? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5602381/Relatives-floral-tributes-burglar-killed-pensioner.html

I suppose we are talking positive trigger. Invert the trigger with a few basic components or a transistorised relay maybe easier.

I imagine it will require a pulsed input with a timed closure and hopefully trap protection is up to spec...

Would require dedicated ACU to conform to BS8243, probably not applicable here but worth mentioning. Texe only have closed contacts on the 88 and up.

Best to factory default it. As part of the rules we do not give out defaulting information or engineering manuals on the Public side of the forum for security reasons. However, if you are an ex-installer they are pretty straight forward to default and probably similar to other panels you have used. Hopefully you have a LCD keypad then at least you will have some hint of the menus to reprogram it.

Would only have LF if input or plug-on digi was connected.

I do agree chances are slim but the weakness could be there if you are considered a target. Yes weak passwords and secure by design products where the take aways for consumers, but many don't know what a secure password looks like. Even then there's other ways to get on the network than via WiFi. Many of these consumer tech products have telnet open or passwords you can't change when you are in. There are plenty of "professional" CCTV systems available to be streamed online, they just seemed to find two old people they could show as a vulnerable example with DIY stuff. At the moment it's so easy to take cars off your drive there is no need to attempt hacking your network.

All done with consumer tech tho. Nothing featured was specialist hardware wise. They have obviously given them enough information to make it viable in the time frame, for the first example. SSID and key length information greatly reduces the time required to crack.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0b50191 Worth a watch if you haven't already, most will be common knowledge to trade members here. Example of hacking a smart home with interesting use of exploiting Alexa via a smart TV. Highlighting the issue with keyless entry for cars. Baby monitors and CCTV streaming sites and Secure by Design code of practice.

Standby current is equally important for battery duration this should be calculated from your battery size with tolerance for ageing. In alarm current I would want to keep a decent margin lower than maximum load as a bit of tolerance. You also have to consider how much current the panel uses to charge it's own battery after a power outage and power itself. All PSU's in the system need to be at the same potential so they will need a wire between them as I mentioned above.

I've never fitted soundbombs, theyre pants. Trigger may take the load depends on the panel. Relays should be transistorised. Maybe using a compatible SCB box would save the hassle with the PSU and commoning neg's. Have you checked your "capacity", I assume you have standby and alarm current values to calculate your battery standby time?

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40636-arfur-mo/

IMO there is not enough tolerance with 1k/1k. Seems to be common issue on Galaxy to have intermittent hi/low res faults compared to other resistor configurations. Not to say reed switches don't go faulty.

You will definitely need to get into engineers mode to program these out. I suggest you look for an engineer that supports Risco, or alternatively have an engineer replace and upgrade your system with there preferred shiny new stuff. The panel could be locked so it maybe destined for the bin anyway.

All down to if it's wired DP or EOL. More systems are wired EOL, inverting the wires shouldn't make a difference so maybe something is loose/shorting out. Selectable you will have to make sure they are compatible with your panel normally you cut a link within them, or you can get ones with screw terminals which you can fit your resistors in.