sixwheeledbeast

All down to if it's wired DP or EOL. More systems are wired EOL, inverting the wires shouldn't make a difference so maybe something is loose/shorting out. Selectable you will have to make sure they are compatible with your panel normally you cut a link within them, or you can get ones with screw terminals which you can fit your resistors in.

Four wires = Double Pole Wiring, Two WIres = FSL aka EOL wiring. You will need to copy the configuration like in your photo making sure the resistors are in the same positions, hopefully they are not too corroded. Many fit contacts with built in resistors now, less to break or go wrong but are bought to be compatible with the installed systems resistor values.

Every box will be labelled different, so would have to see panel and box to give wiring instructions. If your current box is functional I would leave it, no point in paying twice if the incoming company use there own as standard. IMO give the backlight a miss or disable it, they look pants, emit pointless light pollution and can give you planning permission issues.

If you are not doing it yourself then leave it up to the installer to decide on the best panel and bellbox for the job.

Your looking at either rewiring, BUS compatible system or an iD Expander. I consider that the wiring is normally manky old 4 core and would go for the first where feasible. You said "staff" so it's commercial and probably easier to rewire than mess about. If you have defaulted the system has the volume been changed so they can no longer hear the exit tones?

Lol, I would hope so, doing this for a living... Personally I fit Bosch BluLine Quads in pet applications because I have good results with them especially for cats. Given the choices I'd choose a DT Pet over a Std PIR Pet. The sensors wouldn't have to be the same brand if you have a wired system and therefore yes they should be completely compatible with the new controls. Could be a number of reasons for the issue, but it would be very unlucky for all the sensors to fail at the same time. Some pet sensors can be slow as you are basically desensitising the PIR. If it's just one or two they maybe faulty or incorrectly setup, if the devices have been disturbed height adjustment maybe off, accidentally covered in wallpaper paste, environmental issue... List goes on, hard to say without seeing it.

Pet friendly sensors are normally considered a workaround, it's best practice to use perimeter protection or try to limit the location of the pets. If I do fit pet friendly sensors as a last option or retrofit, I use Bosch which I can switch pet on and off, never fitted Orisec ones.

I would use a Quad PIR as standard for normal domestic rooms. DT's would normally be used in harsher environments where temperature would be less stable, i.e. a garage. Hard to pass opinion without seeing the job but that's not to say DT's are unsuitable, I have mostly DT's myself.

Difficult to understand what you have been told and what has happened without been on site. Sounds to me like an auxiliary voltage output has blown, not the "PSU", hopefully the alternative unused supply is rated for the same current and is fused. Either way it sounds like a workaround the panel is damaged in this case, so replacement would be a good idea.

Contact is only a zone and tamper pair and has no device power. I would have expected a blown fuse if you shorted wires replacing a PIR, my only thought would be the fuse was replace for an incorrect size.

Sensible decision.

Any type of contact could work If you can fit within the operational gap but the push in "pencil style" are normally the most aesthetic on alu. I keep a few GE ones handy (1078). A picture of the door maybe handy if you need more advise on a surface fit.

It's depends on what the deal is with the contractor and how you have charged for the job. If you have charged for the whole project then it would be expected to be "made good" as part of the project, within reason like any other trades on site. There should be a reasonable margin on a job to cover any cock ups by yourself or more likely other trades. Having a first and second fix as separate projects would be different but it's best to have this sort of thing agreed before hand so your extra time would be covered at least. You also have to consider how proving who caused the damage, pointing fingers and being forceful may influence chances of getting any work from them again. It's possible all the trades know each other and give each other work, word travels fast and your unlikely to see them again.

We do not share installer manuals here for security reasons. However, your "system" is an old DIY store effort that people here are unlikely to be able to help you with. I would suggest if the house is rented you contact your landlord about it, before doing anything.

Port forwarding would open internet traffic on that port to your device, while allowing your CCTV to function you are also opening an attack route into your network. You would be relying on your CCTV recorder to protect your network from attack for as long as it's connected to the internet. It would be recommended to use a good quality router/firewall and a VLAN/DMZ with port forwarding or setup a VPN for best security.

TMD's are not suitable for harsh environments IMO. I wouldn't fit them at all, I have never rated them myself but that's beside the point. I would be using a separate area or a 24Hr group with two DT's (assuming confirmed) and protection on the door myself.

C&G/NVQ is more catered to day release, work based learning. It's mostly around theory, regs and paperwork side, very little hands on. If your competent you will be bored but learn a little, if incompetent you will likely doss off and have a chance at passing.

Grandfather rights seem to get you places in this industry. Unfortunate for those that are actually "qualified", as essentially your shiny certificate means very little. That's not to say a fresh engineer with quals can be put straight on the job or would be better. You certainly learn a whole lot more on the job, with the caveat you are paired with a good engineer for a while.

You been Hobnobbing again?

Great thing about WD is you can check your Serial Numbers are valid and within warranty date online. https://support.wdc.com/warranty/

Well maybe you'll survive on the dark side...

Forgetting about the "quality" and "brand" of the gear ... 4mm fixed lens isn't going to be suitable for this type of thing. I have always used WD Drives and WD Purples are pretty standard for 24/7 on applications. Generally I feel your wasting your time trying to point a camera onto public property, using neighbours walls, into a place you can't guarantee you will park on. The footage you will get will be pretty minimal too as it's side on and unlikely to identify anything. I get the feeling most companies would walk away from this job possibly why you are getting so little feedback.

Microwaves will both penetrate and reflect back from surfaces, the reflected signals are processed to detect changes. Ultrasound will penetrate thin surfaces (for example a sonograph) but most if not all would be absorbed or reflected by surfaces when used in a detector.Ultrasonic went out of favour and replaced with other technologies like IR and MW due to health concerns. Any detection method that could penetrate outside of the protected area would normally be in a combination detector now (a DT or Dual-Tech), the other technology being passive infrared as the idea is to detect movement only within the area you are protecting. Installers would adjust and test the MW range on detectors they fit to avoid false alarms.

Some microwaves will pass through walls but the sensors are not designed to "detect" through the wall. Is this a theoretical question or can you explain what you are trying to do/work out?

Also I am certain the Ministry of Transport are more interested in Diesel emissions than old domestic alarm panels. You can put an advise on everything and slam a new battery in it but it's on borrowed time and won't stop it letting you down on the motorway.