sixwheeledbeast

Pet friendly sensors are normally considered a workaround, it's best practice to use perimeter protection or try to limit the location of the pets. If I do fit pet friendly sensors as a last option or retrofit, I use Bosch which I can switch pet on and off, never fitted Orisec ones.

I would use a Quad PIR as standard for normal domestic rooms. DT's would normally be used in harsher environments where temperature would be less stable, i.e. a garage. Hard to pass opinion without seeing the job but that's not to say DT's are unsuitable, I have mostly DT's myself.

Difficult to understand what you have been told and what has happened without been on site. Sounds to me like an auxiliary voltage output has blown, not the "PSU", hopefully the alternative unused supply is rated for the same current and is fused. Either way it sounds like a workaround the panel is damaged in this case, so replacement would be a good idea.

Contact is only a zone and tamper pair and has no device power. I would have expected a blown fuse if you shorted wires replacing a PIR, my only thought would be the fuse was replace for an incorrect size.

Sensible decision.

Any type of contact could work If you can fit within the operational gap but the push in "pencil style" are normally the most aesthetic on alu. I keep a few GE ones handy (1078). A picture of the door maybe handy if you need more advise on a surface fit.

It's depends on what the deal is with the contractor and how you have charged for the job. If you have charged for the whole project then it would be expected to be "made good" as part of the project, within reason like any other trades on site. There should be a reasonable margin on a job to cover any cock ups by yourself or more likely other trades. Having a first and second fix as separate projects would be different but it's best to have this sort of thing agreed before hand so your extra time would be covered at least. You also have to consider how proving who caused the damage, pointing fingers and being forceful may influence chances of getting any work from them again. It's possible all the trades know each other and give each other work, word travels fast and your unlikely to see them again.

We do not share installer manuals here for security reasons. However, your "system" is an old DIY store effort that people here are unlikely to be able to help you with. I would suggest if the house is rented you contact your landlord about it, before doing anything.

Port forwarding would open internet traffic on that port to your device, while allowing your CCTV to function you are also opening an attack route into your network. You would be relying on your CCTV recorder to protect your network from attack for as long as it's connected to the internet. It would be recommended to use a good quality router/firewall and a VLAN/DMZ with port forwarding or setup a VPN for best security.

TMD's are not suitable for harsh environments IMO. I wouldn't fit them at all, I have never rated them myself but that's beside the point. I would be using a separate area or a 24Hr group with two DT's (assuming confirmed) and protection on the door myself.

C&G/NVQ is more catered to day release, work based learning. It's mostly around theory, regs and paperwork side, very little hands on. If your competent you will be bored but learn a little, if incompetent you will likely doss off and have a chance at passing.

Grandfather rights seem to get you places in this industry. Unfortunate for those that are actually "qualified", as essentially your shiny certificate means very little. That's not to say a fresh engineer with quals can be put straight on the job or would be better. You certainly learn a whole lot more on the job, with the caveat you are paired with a good engineer for a while.

You been Hobnobbing again?

Great thing about WD is you can check your Serial Numbers are valid and within warranty date online. https://support.wdc.com/warranty/

Well maybe you'll survive on the dark side...

Forgetting about the "quality" and "brand" of the gear ... 4mm fixed lens isn't going to be suitable for this type of thing. I have always used WD Drives and WD Purples are pretty standard for 24/7 on applications. Generally I feel your wasting your time trying to point a camera onto public property, using neighbours walls, into a place you can't guarantee you will park on. The footage you will get will be pretty minimal too as it's side on and unlikely to identify anything. I get the feeling most companies would walk away from this job possibly why you are getting so little feedback.

Microwaves will both penetrate and reflect back from surfaces, the reflected signals are processed to detect changes. Ultrasound will penetrate thin surfaces (for example a sonograph) but most if not all would be absorbed or reflected by surfaces when used in a detector.Ultrasonic went out of favour and replaced with other technologies like IR and MW due to health concerns. Any detection method that could penetrate outside of the protected area would normally be in a combination detector now (a DT or Dual-Tech), the other technology being passive infrared as the idea is to detect movement only within the area you are protecting. Installers would adjust and test the MW range on detectors they fit to avoid false alarms.

Some microwaves will pass through walls but the sensors are not designed to "detect" through the wall. Is this a theoretical question or can you explain what you are trying to do/work out?

Also I am certain the Ministry of Transport are more interested in Diesel emissions than old domestic alarm panels. You can put an advise on everything and slam a new battery in it but it's on borrowed time and won't stop it letting you down on the motorway.

Mess of wiring, tape covering joints, 10 zones on 8 zone panel and seems to have no tampers. Burn marks around R69, D1, D3 and D13 indicate the panels PSU has probably been overloaded and the components will be tired. If it was a decent system in good order it would be worth looking after, but I'd rip it out myself TBH.

10 devices on a 8 zone panel? Prices would vary depending on who you get and your location. Also would depend if you have agreed a fixed price for the job or if you will be charged a call out/per hour. I'd contact some local companies to get a rough idea, that doesn't mean to say you should necessarily choose the cheapest.

Part of the issue is you don't really use the car often enough I suppose. From what I can tell the bay is only restricted during the day but I can understand you maybe unlikely to get a space outside of those times. Certainly advise you don't block parking with cones or the like as this is considered as obstructing the highway and could lead to a Fixed Penalty Notice. I actually agree with Norm, I am sure the insurance would favour a lock-up over on street parking maybe any savings on the insurance could be put towards that. If you really want to park your car in front of your house you could knock the front wall out and apply for a dropped kerb which would mean they would have to adjust the bay then. Unfortunately this would likely be refused if there is not enough distance from the property to the pavement, normally a car length; so may not be an option. As for your query on car cams they use a small amount of current but may drain the battery over a longer period time if you don't regularly use the vehicle. The solution to this would be a separate battery just for the camera unit that would be charged via some sort of split charge setup. No footage if the battery goes flat but at least you can start your car.

I don't believe anyone here could recommend any DIY Kits like Swann and Sannce or the places you are looking to purchase from. Generally the cable provided in DIY kits is like string, PSU's that burn out and overall will offer a headache and a false sense of security. I would suggest you look at the ICO website https://ico.org.uk/ about the regulations for CCTV systems, data protection and how a camera pointing into a public area would effect you, before even considering installing. CAT5e with baluns or RG59+2C would both be appropriate for analogue signals, however many have been using CAT5e solutions as standard for a while now. I can't work out if you are looking to DIY (fit it yourself) from your post? Sounds like a small car incident camera maybe most suitable here, I would also try asking the council about providing residents parking for the bay or reducing the time the bay is active, unlikely looking at it but worth a try.

Guardall PX would imagine Chubb firmware and POTD.

Brother HL-3170CDW would be the newer duplex version of my colour laser which has been solid over the years. Friend of mine has a MFC-9340CDW and has been pretty happy with it, not sure how much he's used the duplexer mind. I normally avoid anything Lexmark myself, from past experience. I was also going to ask if SOHO use?