sixwheeledbeast

We have a good range of ADE (Concept/Optima/Accenta) manuals in our engineers downloads section, accessible to trade verified members. We do not distribute manuals here in the forums for security reasons as per our guidelines. If similar to Accenta G3 it will be in Flags so:- Option 3 > Flag 3/4 (off) > Reset This shouldn't be on as default so I can only assume the panel wasn't defaulted fully or you switched it on by accident.

Your wasting your time swapping the sounder IMO, it's likely an incoming installer will want to fit there own.

I don't know the controls but I don't expect the system should be throwing watchdog messages due to a complete power loss and battery drained. A watchdog is a general term in electronics for the systems processes are no longer responsive and therefore the system has triggered a reboot, this leaves watchdog message in any logfiles/event logs. There could be any number of causes but most I have seen come back to unstable mains, electrical spikes or very rarely faulty controls. PJ is correct you need to look in the log for events around the watchdog also worth checking the voltages with a meter. Yes, it is considered to the panel that the system has been tampered or is about to be. If armed it will be a full alarm, if disarmed it would be internals only.

Maybe I was considering if the dialler had a built in battery and if it was positive or negative trigger? It helps to know what is installed before assuming things. This is the original question that I answered, is it not?

I answered the question, that's generally what you do when asked one. If I was asked why do you think there are local power cuts then maybe my answer would be different.

What model dialler? It is possible that the dialler will trigger when the power restores not upon the power cut itself. However, locally the alarm would sound upon low battery and any SCB/SAB would trigger when the system dies completely.

A jumper would make locking pointless, it is a setting in the programming. If you changed the code without checking the programming you wouldn't be able to tell if it was locked. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/221-essex-security-installers/ https://www.nsi.org.uk/directory/ https://ssaib.org/security-provider-search/ Incoming installer will replace the box anyway.

Surely this would just blow a fuse, either way it doesn't matter, this is a huge difference from the suspected faulty keypad we initially tried to diagnose. It would have helped to know the full picture from the original post IMO, this could explain some of the posts you received. A system of that size would need to be a commercial size panel, so as we said before expect it to be considerably more than £400. There is no best choice, every installer will have a different selection of kit that they offer. Let them study the property and assess the risk to the property. You really need to get some installers round to quote the system, expect them to quote to replace all electronic components. If it is helpful post up the equipment specified in the quotes you get and we can try to advise you further.

PIR's and DT's are two separate things, can you confirm what you have? A PIR is not suitable for a garage. Pulse count should be higher for less sensitivity. Need to prove the sensor from the wiring and then the sensor from the environment. If you cover the sensor does it activate? If you stand still in front of the sensor does it activate?

Engineer code has likely been changed because it was discovered that the engineer was giving it out. For companies it's important there engineering code is kept secure. It's also possible the code has been locked upon doing this. I fail to see how shorting the PIR wiring out would damage the panel, but I suppose it is Risco. This really should be checked there maybe no damage to the panel. Panel and sensors very untidy. As I said earlier in the thread everyone will have a different opinion on what panel to use. I wouldn't put Risco back in but it may be easier to swap like for like in a DIY situation now that we know your system is actually EOL.

If that's what you have on your current system and you have been quoted £400, I don't know how they are making a living. I don't think I could buy my preferred suitable Panel, Expander and Keypads and have much change left. This does sound a little patronising, so I appreciate your reaction. However, it is true that with the budget you have stated so far you will not get anywhere near the appropriate kit if you have chosen the wireless route. Exactly. Wireless would be more than double the price of fixing up what you have.

£400 sounds very cheap. Good luck with the vets bills for your dog, if you think alarms are expensive. I know this is the DIY forum but you can't teach people how to install an alarm in a forum. Many of us here have been doing this a long time and have qualifications for what we do to provide the best standard of protection for our customers. It's not all about sticking boxes on walls, putting coloured wires in holes and making Mario music from a keypad in the hall, despite popular believe. Generally we can tell if you are competent at the task from the questions you ask, it would be silly not to advise you to seek professional help at this point. There are mains voltages present and electronics that could overheat or even, catch fire if wired incorrectly. I would not like to be responsible for any issues occurring from injury or death. Sorry if this is similar to what you got from your plumbing forum but it's true, we see enough poorly fitted stuff day to day during working hours not to assist in making more in our spare time. As I said before you are looking for a panel capable of wiring DP circuits, if you do not wish to disturb the sensors; this is Double Pole if you need to search for that. The more commercial variants of the Premier or Euro are two options and there is likely others but each installer has there own preferred kit so recommendations are not helpful in this way.

Any modern panel can be made "compatible" but many panels of that size will not be a drop in replacement. A G2-20 would require you to EOL all the devices for example. You would need a DP compatible panel if you didn't want to replace all the sensors/fit EOL's There are many types of tamper protection, on something that you are DIYing its not relevant what type as long as it works IMO. Many poorly installed jobs seem to ditch the tamper completely, link it out or wire it incorrectly in a non-functional way. It's more likely to be the programming you will stumble on, this is why you should use kit your installer is competent with, or get someone in who is.

I would suggest you let your "electrician friend" choose a panel he is competent with if that's who is doing the work. Not sure who told you about one wire tamper, but I assume they have got confused with EOL or something.

You can't connect a SAB correctly without the module, IIRC the there is no neg or tamper return without it. It's only suitable for a internal siren, does explain all this with diagrams in the manual.

You need the output module for wired SAB's.

No problem, let us know how you get on.

If you cannot follow the the instructions in the engineering manual, maybe consider getting someone in. If the timer is only inconvenient then consider that defaulting may make the system unusable like I say above. There is no visible age on the battery so that is likely to need replacing, if not serviced in a while it's worth having the full system checked. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/ Section 12 - Do NOT post security control equipment defaulting information We do not allow the sharing of engineering manuals, default codes or defaulting instructions here for security reasons.

Not knowing the model of the alarm shouldnt be a problem if just replacing a PIR. Yes The transformer powers the control panel. There is no switch, it's a fuse that has mains voltages. I wouldn't expect it to be the default code if programmed by an installer. Defaulting the panel will require you to program everything from scratch. Easy if you know how, unlikely to have a working system if you don't know what you are doing. If you need notifications from your alarm I would suggest you get a company to fit a monitored system. Anything else provides a false sense of security.

You need a replacement battery not a bigger one. They need replacing over time like all rechargeables.

We do not provide installation instructions here for security reasons. If you have a wired system it is likely any wired external sounder will suit. Don't buy equipment if you are not going to DIY, I personally wouldn't install kit that someone else had bought. If you don't feel competent for the task at hand get some prices for a service check and new external sounder.

You have a completely different type of camera to what you wanted then.

So much of a bargain it comes without a power supply it would seem.

I assume Floureon? Used there batteries, no idea they sold consumer grade CCTV kits. Would expect it to have some sort of Micro USB port or barrel connection to power it from? Wouldn't expect anyone to have used one here.

Only ever worked a Hibernator the once, I believe they are built to order. Looked like it had a custom Debian XFCE running on it, with there software on top. I'd speak to the manufacturer or wherever you got it from.