sixwheeledbeast

Looks C Type? So they where built up from parts like bell, module and strobe. Strobe unit should have been mounted underneath to deter the cowboys. Although simpler ways of disabling them where found.

It's likely you don't have permissions for either yet then.

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So the logical first question is:- Do you know how to measure the quiescent, alarm and what standby time is required for your system? Garbage in, garbage out...

No, you need to select a wired or wireless bell they do not do both. Kit ones are normally the basic version of the PIR, not the Elite QD or DT versions which are better. Basically most of the wireless kits provide a budget option to try to compete with other manufactures kits. If you want to pick you would have to buy individually.

It does and there are no repeaters it's mesh.

Installed correctly as per the instructions you shouldn't have any issues. If you don't know what you are doing you are likely to have endless polling errors and headaches.

From what i can tell of your post the acknowledgement and abort options are set incorrectly.

These card only use one COM port so if busy doing a task you will not be able to login. This to me sounds like something is misconfigured in the router. Every router is different and ISP provided routers are junk. Update IP works as intended from your description. I would put the old router back to test it myself. I never liked the WiFi version but never had an problem with LAN card. WiFi ones are a bit annoying to get setup but when setup work fine. They have there limitations hence the new Smartcom but again it's down to people expecting plug and play instead of following the instructions, like I said in the trade thread recently. For private reporting services (not connected to an ARC) I would prefer to have a ComIP and use my own static IP or DDNS service over using a closed platform to auto-configure everything.

Never fitted one or taken one down. I would imagine a Friedland bell and SCB bell module with battery?

A small pile of rust by now.

Sounds like a good price if they know what they are doing. It's certainly not easier to do it yourself,. Never looked at the Ion myself but your going to have to learn how it all works, programmes and goes together. For example, you say hooking it up to the inet will be the easy bit, but do you know where to enter the IP settings on the panel? It depends how much you value your time versus your money, if you do DIY it maybe best to read the manual a few times and then get the panel sensors enrolled and tested first. If you have any further specific questions break them down in another thread, you may find someone that has used the Ion can point you in the right direction.

CVE Numbering Authority

These CVE lists only cover known and reported vulnerabilities. More interesting is that Hikvision are now a CNA as of this month.

Pan head - cpc.farnell.com/FN03698 Dome head - cpc.farnell.com/FN01901 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#Screw_head_shapes To get back on topic what really matters is the size of the nut in the casing and it's thread, it's certainly not a countersunk wood screw. I suppose it's only an old Gardtec but I prefer to do a job right, I would expect the same if I was seeking advice.

Dome, pan and round are all different types of heads... Pan would look more like a brass screw for a galv box, for example.

Don't expect the correct screw to go back in after you've jammed a wood screw in it. I would think it's something like a M3x6 dome head, going from the memory of the few Gardtecs I have had to deal with. Pattress screws are normally M3.5 which would be a guide on size.

Battery would need to be loaded to test but yes chewed cables will not help.

Tampers are a 24hr type alarm. This means internals if unset, full alarm if armed.

Yes, keyhole fixing hole adjacent the mains and tamper switch. If you have not used the keyhole as a fixing you have not fitted the rear tamper. The keyhole fixing if used and overtightened (or ripped off the wall in a burglary) will break the plastic plate and move the switch away from the lid screw by design. The 3 pin header should be marked with a white line, not got a PE24 to hand to say left, middle or right. If in doubt try both positions. Panel is best to be factory defaulted on first power up. You would normally get tampers and internal alarm on first power up.

The back tamper is part of the keyhole plastic as I said. You could rule out the cab tampers by using a jumper on the header, then try resetting the controls. This is the firmware from stock so will be correct unless flashed. Can't really see much of what I am talking about from the picture, I understand you are trying to show the lid screw.

Lead from the switch not connected to the panel? Keyhole plastic over tightened breaking the back tamper? Firmware version?

As above. So you last posted about replacing your keypad, bell and panel back in 2013-2014. It would be recommended by installers to have the system serviced annually, the battery would be tested and replaced every 4 years. I'd start there.

If French is the plan Kangoo, if not VW. Talking car derived here BTW. Buying/leasing would be down to your business over other things.

Needs looking at, could be a number of things especially if it's not been serviced in a while. I would power it down for now if the external sounder doesn't ring out.