sixwheeledbeast

People with limited technical knowledge of the panels and IT will struggle to get it working, there's a lot of settings to program. We are not taking about setting up consumer grade kit here. The new Smartcom is more plug and play, likely because even trained engineers are incapable of following instructions, or so it would appear. Some ISP's have backdoors into there routers (look at TR-069 hacking) and part of some ISP's automated service for line/speed issues is instructions on how to default the router. It's likely that some firmware updates will default the router, I generally avoid working on ISP provided gear if I can, it can be more hassle than it's worth. Ideally you would swap for enterprise grade router but many domestics wouldn't pay for that, or the support for the router going forward.

The only setting that is changed from the server is the polling time to 015. Other two points are possible but had no reported issues with iOS11 myself, also bear in mind that you can't login if it's trying to contact the server to push a notification, it all runs on the same port. So for example if the server was busy or set wrong it will keep trying for the amount of retries set in the programming, you wouldn't have access until it times out. If you had this issue I would expect you not to be able to access the Com-IP at all which I believe is not the case.

Hard to say without checking all the settings. I'd guess from what you say, the panel programmed to send open closes and the router has been factory reset.

Doesn't sound like it's programmed correctly. If you can connect locally that proves the alarm equipment is fine. Never had an issue with the app on any version of iOS.

Are we talking PIR's here? I wouldn't expect a normal PIR to work in a conservatory radio or not.

Bell output is rated at 500mA, Digi outputs 100mA. 20mins is over the maximum run time for a motor style high output siren. You wouldn't be happy turning up to your house after the locks have been changed, alarm disabled and a note to contact your nearest council office for entry, plus the bill to pay all the services that turned up to stop it. More likely to happen in urban areas but possible anywhere.

I see it from both ways. Would you prefer Texecom to be on the phone to DIYers explaining how to do this properly, while your engineers or yourself are on a job, on hold for hours? The technical guys have come to the conclusion it's a DIYer and banging it on the bell trig is the simple way to "get it working" with no programming. Therefore clearing the lines for more technical questions, a priority at the moment. If it works for a while without failing then job done, difference is we are mostly professionals giving advise here using our experience, you cant teach how to do our job on a forum.

Did they cover all the things I mentioned in my post? I said initially its not as simple as sticking wires in terminals. Does the Blaster have Back EMF protection? Possible but if you don't check you could blow the panel or output. I wouldn't use a bell terminal for this unless there was no other option due to my points above, however:- Did they ask what was in the bell terminals already and calculate the current? Again could blow the panel or bell trig if not checked. Did you adjust the bell time so not to burn the master out? Blasters have a duty cycle and will burn out if overrun. Was it explained about noise pollution regulations and if the sound is deemed excessive the LA can force entry to the property to kill it?

LED's are a good quick test of many common data buses. Some clever person at Texecom decided to build them into all the kit which is handy.

All time switches need to have a on and off cycle to function (think about how time cycles round), the pulse is an additional attribute that you can use which I believe only functions for the on cycle. Need to break down the fault further really. My usual method if given a problem like this is to program as eng on site (for example) and test if everything from the controls onwards works, then take it from there. Forcing or inverting the output doesn't always highlight where the problem is.

Don't have any issues with time switches I have set up on M Series. Never used Downloader. You would need to use Pulsed mode if you want a short pulse and setup the pulse time. Have you programmed the physical output as time switch 1?

As I say in my post in depends which model blaster you have. Also relays do take a current and you have to consider if protected for back EMF.

Who said anything about a relay being supplied? That would be additional kit if required. Only PE88 upwards have an onboard volt free relay which can switch upto 3A.

Ah, you can't beat one of those good old fashioned tube valve interfaces... That's unfortunate, have you tried to contact another engineer? It's not quite as simple as sticking wires in terminals... Lets start with the fact a PE12 and PE24 are two different panels so wire program differently, also we don't know what model Klaxon you have there are different types. Then even with the correct kit you will need to go into the engineers menu which any reputable installer will have his own code so you wouldn't be able to access. Follow this with locating an output that can handle the current from the blaster, would have to check spec sheets for panel and blaster. When in engineering menu you would need to set an output (all should sink negative on the small Texe panels) to follow the bell with a reduced trigger time so not annoy the neighbours or burn the blaster out.

You really need a contact to start the entry/exit here, as this would be an always awake device. I am not sure which model PIR you have or how you are testing the functionality of it, but from what you say it's likely to be asleep for energy saving.

Bring back the colours...

Zxyel BTW. Not my preferred kit but never had an issue with one.

You can select the type of alarms that are notified in the reporting options, open/closed is disabled on default so digis, diallers and tap don't rack up huge bills. I have said this many times before, Texecom menu structure has evolved over a long time and often has many ways to do the same thing. The menus make sense to installers that have used them everyday and definitely aren't irrelevant. Apps for the two popular platforms have to conform to guidelines on battery life, always running in the background would consume the devices battery very quickly. In addition the phones OS generally disables inactive windows if the app is written to use this, which is why you can have loads of things open on your phone an have no issues. The way round this battery issue is the push notifications but even they are one way so no guarantees you will receive the message therefore will never beat proper signalling.

It's not the fixings that's the issue. You can easily pop a mag, as it relies on the contact surface area.

If your blowing 13A plug top fuses there is something seriously wrong on the mains side of the alarm (assuming only the alarm is connected to the spur). I would suggest isolating it and powering the system down until tests can be made to the electrical connections or control panel.

Needs a new battery or battery fuse by the sounds of it. I have also just realised this thread was hijacked and doesn't make much sense if you read it from the beginning. As for your computer maybe consider other options than Windows if your starting again.

Sounded like all you needed to do was close your tampers and arm/disarm it from your original post.

Prices would vary depending on:- your area, if they're approved and what is included as part of the service; which is worth asking. Very often when it comes to prices we generally advise to speak to at least 3 places, and go with the one you feel most comfortable with, not necessarily the cheapest. Many companies would prefer to offer a maintenance agreement which may (or may not) include (some or all) parts and call out services. You could also have a one off call out to check the system, I am sure an engineer competent with Texecom kit would be happy to reprogram, provide a zone list and setup your part sets for you in next to no time.

Factory defaulting the control panel without knowing how to program it again wasn't a sensible option, it could have just been a faulty contact or sensor in the first place. You will need to find the original fault and then reprogram the system correctly.

Firstly it would be a good idea to have it serviced, if it hasn't been recently. Batteries are installed in the system that are vital to it's correct operation. Veritas pretty straight forward to use for users. User manual available here. http://texe.com/uk/document.php?serveid=275 or I assume this is the manual you have a copy of? Note if your system is fairly old the function numbers will not be the same as the manual, this is known as a Pre-2000 panel. You will not be able to change your part set but if it's setup correctly you will be able to use it. The lights indicate the omitted zones while part is arming, multiple zones can be omitted at the same time via a part set. Walk test will indicate zones operation so you can work out which zone number is which device