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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. sixwheeledbeast
    Unless there is a bell delay set up something isn't right. Could be a number of things so needs diagnosing.
  2. sixwheeledbeast
    Could possibly be a faulty sensor. Have you tested anything or used your multimeter yet?
  3. sixwheeledbeast
    Is the other keypad active when the main door one shows busy? Just silence with the user code when you remove the PIR, then reset when complete.
  4. sixwheeledbeast
    Code Omit 2 Set Reminds me how annoying iconic buttons are for giving help on the phone. I understand why manufacturers do it but most users have no idea what the icons are suppose to mean.
  5. sixwheeledbeast
    No room in the Poly case for a full fat Premier at that time. Export panel where digi and outputs were more important than bell terminals.
  6. sixwheeledbeast
    1 9 AWAY
  7. sixwheeledbeast
    Yes it will be fine, you will need to replace the backplate tho.
  8. sixwheeledbeast
    Is your existing system faulty or is the coverage not adequate? Are you looking for someone to install a system or DIY?
  9. sixwheeledbeast
    You have to be careful which exact panel you have, R8/Plus or Excel is not compatible with the standard LCD Premier keypad. A 412/418 I believe should be compatible, but they are not a common panel in the UK. The plastic casing is actually over the top of the silicone buttons on your new keypad, must be a pretty old keypad if it is silicone buttons only. Keypads have a data connection they do not store data, LCD, LCDL LCDP LCDLP are interchangeable but have different features, prox, large screen, both etc.
  10. sixwheeledbeast
    So using your variable bench supply you could find out what the exact voltage is that triggers the low supply warning.
  11. sixwheeledbeast
    Powermax - mostly one way Powermaster - mostly two way No idea about Honeywell, Texecom is mesh
  12. sixwheeledbeast
    Cheap system with one way devices.
  13. sixwheeledbeast
    Operating instructions should have recommanded voltage in the specification.
  14. sixwheeledbeast
    Assuming Galaxy would it not have custom firmware? I am sure they would come out for a non-contract fee and default codes for you...
  15. sixwheeledbeast
    Well yes 12.0Vdc is a little low. I would be looking for 13.60Vdc on the Aux at the panel. Most kit has a little tolerance for voltage below and above ideal operation voltages say around 11-14Vdc.
  16. sixwheeledbeast
    Nah, sooner use Visonic over Pyronix, like for like. Wouldn't fit either tho. Without another one you are not going to know if it's intended behaviour or not. I am assuming from your posts it works fine but has an undocumented flashing light?
  17. sixwheeledbeast
    Is the flashing light just indicating it's in stand-alone mode and the device operates fine even with the flashing light?
  18. sixwheeledbeast
    You can't have a stable mesh network without each device establishing itself with each other.
  19. sixwheeledbeast
    I like a challenge... MDT Avanti LED.
  20. sixwheeledbeast
    With you saying boss codes, this sounds like an 8 Plus or Excel and not just an Veritas 8? If you want to check the codes you can enter them and see if they work, you are likely to only have 4 attempts before a local tamper alarm will occur. Bear in mind if you are poking about in engineers menu and not sure what you're doing you may change the system programming causing more issues. I also believe it's most likely to be the service timer and as the system has been powered down the time and date is likely to be wrong. I would default and reprogram from scratch myself.
  21. sixwheeledbeast
    Breeze to operate, until they fall apart or you loose them.
  22. sixwheeledbeast
    Or simply that's part of the route to get to the keypad. I.E the Hall PIR when you come from upstairs to switch the alarm off.
  23. sixwheeledbeast
    Just because something is old it doesn't mean it's not fit for purpose. If you've got a DM with keyboards and 2060's on BBV alarm boards all over a site your not going to replace it just for the sake of it's age are you! I am not saying don't upgrade but if something is doing it's job well enough and is maintained in good working order I don't see why it needs ripping out. Every job is different and at the price point of DM it's probably commercial, so if upgrading is required it would most likely be in stages with careful planning on kit compatibility.
  24. sixwheeledbeast
    Yes
  25. sixwheeledbeast
    Texecom have a hold off disable mode for installation and testing, it's likely the bell was not functioning correctly due to this. If the hold off voltage is removed, the bell should sound out strongly for it's hold off time (15 mins) and then stop. It should also do the same if it's lid is opened, or a negative is applied to trigger terminal. It's also possible for the battery to be disabled, not connected or wired incorrectly at installation (seen this fault many times) so this maybe the case if you've swapped the battery like for like. It could equally be possible the bell is not functioning correctly as pointed out way back in the thread, is very unlikely but a possibility you shouldn't rule out.
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