sixwheeledbeast

If it's a CGA then it's speech only.

I agree you bought a Speech Dialler as described. The manuals and menus are the same on both models. TAP is pretty unreliable anyway so I wouldn't worry about it.

I recall Texecom stopped selling batteries around 10 years ago?

Yes there are two versions, cheaper speech only (CGA-0001) and speech and text (CGC-0001). The cheaper one does have all the menus too.

Don't bother using TAP text messaging it is unreliable. You'll probably get the messages next week if at all...

You need to break all these questions down one by one. They are all separate issues so work through them all one by one and post a new thread if you have to. Your not likely to get responses to a wall of text. Quick gloss over your points to put you in the right direction:- 1) It's EOL circuits on a keypad so needs mapping and programming as DP/EOL 2) Bell is suppose to sound out with no power as an anti-tamper. Not all of them have engineers hold off mode. 3)You will have to go through the programming to get it back the way you had it. 4)Speaker volume is programmable in the Global Menu if connected to the panel. This is professional grade kit that is not designed to be fitted by DIYers, there is no shortcut to knowledge of programming the system. I suggest you read the manual cover to cover a few times. You should be able to work it out it's all in there.

Can you prove the system was regularly maintained and in full working order before the event?

I'd definitely wire it and get rid, while you could just replace the panel for a Complete its one way wireless and useless if attacked. Apps are a waste of time IMO.

Maybe water in the fitting or the bulb has blown. Equally the Racal unit could have a fuse.

I also only have a 28 mainly for 8 core, 28s can be a little bit loose on 4/6 core as it is. I would say you would need both if you are using both sizes of cable. Think I would have to be doing a lot of single runs, to justify the larger gauge one.

Any system with areas could be set to work like two systems. You could wire with appropriate containment or use a hybrid system but it all comes down to cost.

60/40 electronics solder or most stock the lead free equivalent, flux is in the solder core (rosin). Do not use plumbing solder it's not suitable.

I doubt you'll find anything like that in working order and it seems a bit of an odd request, most would just replace and skip the old box. If purely aesthetic reasons you could cobble some modern bellbox electronics into the casing, reusing the tamper switches if serviceable.

Use the cable as a fish and rewire would be my first consideration. CCA will solder with the right temperature and solder.

In dual path signalling you can't use the same path for primary and secondary. Is there a reason for your preference on "4G", with many terms like this it's more about marketing than performance. There are also differences between counties and the technologies they wish to implement going forward, manufacturers may not wish to make a product several times or different variants if they have a working one with better coverage at the moment.

If the system isn't fully operational (codes missing) it's worth considering an upgrade first.

I suggest you find a local installer to take a look at it. It may just require a service and possibly reprogramming but more than likely it will be recommended you replace and upgrade the system. Alternative option is to leave the system powered down and replace all your smoke detectors for stand alone battery ones.

You can view all the manuals we have, only downloads are restricted IIRC. I didn't see a "Citadel" branded manual in there but I believe it will be a rebranded Accenta G3 so unlikely to be uploaded here as Citadel anyway.

We have a good range of ADE (Concept/Optima/Accenta) manuals in our engineers downloads section, accessible to trade verified members. We do not distribute manuals here in the forums for security reasons as per our guidelines. If similar to Accenta G3 it will be in Flags so:- Option 3 > Flag 3/4 (off) > Reset This shouldn't be on as default so I can only assume the panel wasn't defaulted fully or you switched it on by accident.

Your wasting your time swapping the sounder IMO, it's likely an incoming installer will want to fit there own.

I don't know the controls but I don't expect the system should be throwing watchdog messages due to a complete power loss and battery drained. A watchdog is a general term in electronics for the systems processes are no longer responsive and therefore the system has triggered a reboot, this leaves watchdog message in any logfiles/event logs. There could be any number of causes but most I have seen come back to unstable mains, electrical spikes or very rarely faulty controls. PJ is correct you need to look in the log for events around the watchdog also worth checking the voltages with a meter. Yes, it is considered to the panel that the system has been tampered or is about to be. If armed it will be a full alarm, if disarmed it would be internals only.

Maybe I was considering if the dialler had a built in battery and if it was positive or negative trigger? It helps to know what is installed before assuming things. This is the original question that I answered, is it not?

I answered the question, that's generally what you do when asked one. If I was asked why do you think there are local power cuts then maybe my answer would be different.

What model dialler? It is possible that the dialler will trigger when the power restores not upon the power cut itself. However, locally the alarm would sound upon low battery and any SCB/SAB would trigger when the system dies completely.

A jumper would make locking pointless, it is a setting in the programming. If you changed the code without checking the programming you wouldn't be able to tell if it was locked. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/221-essex-security-installers/ https://www.nsi.org.uk/directory/ https://ssaib.org/security-provider-search/ Incoming installer will replace the box anyway.