sixwheeledbeast

We do not allow sharing of engineering manuals or defaulting information on this site as per our guidelines. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/ If other sites are willing to host information that could enable someone to learn how to bypass or disable your alarm system that is there responsibility. You have no evidence this ebay PCB is functional so you could just be wasting your time. Even if you know how to default it without a full programming manual you are not going to be able to set it up. There is no step by step instructions every job is different and needs programming differently. I would say there are two sensible options for a working system going forward:- *Get someone who knows what they are doing to come out check everything over and program the panel. *Buy a new control panel which would come with instructions, read it through and teach yourself how to fit and program it from the instructions provided.

And the panel lid.... If nothing is disturbed why are the tampers being linked?

So the panels going to need programming, I assume it came with a manual that would be the best reference to program your system. If you want to mess about and test without running up and down, you could temporarily wire the keypad on small piece of cable adjacent the panel.

Keyfob battery number 1. When was the last time you had any of the batteries replaced? It is a wireless system so all the equipment has batteries that need replacing regularly. If you replace the battery as it's one way it will not update the system and clear the fault. You will have to arm/disarm the system with the keyfob to clear it.

I agree it's most likely the button not the controls. ET on a 9800 would be wired to the keypad IIRC

Both boxes should sound if power is removed, this is not powered from the mains. However if in Hold-Off mode the bell will not sound anyway so this doesn't prove the battery. Your next steps are deciding if you competent to diagnose what is wrong with it, I am assuming its just a tamper fault somewhere but you need to test it with a meter and work it out. The easy way to fix it from a DIY perspective if the field wiring is ok would be to buy two new boxes they will come with colour for colour instructions. It's likely something an engineer could repair and maybe a service check wouldn't go a miss to aid system reliability, so it's you decision on which way you wish to go.

Not sure why there is two whites in the terminal block, you need to take one MSW wire to the second box. I hope the other bell isn't SAB as you would likely blow the panel. One flashing comfort light means it's in hold-off mode with the tamper open.

Never broken one had occasional jammed staples, the older ones seem a lot more powerful.

Fully agree.Would be good to have it checked over as there are batteries that require maintenance and an operational check of the system wouldn't be a bad idea. I would imagine it's double pole so 4 wires and the colours used would have been upto the installing engineer.

If your looking for an installer we have a section of our members here.http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/ From what you have posted it's highly likely a new system is the most comprehensive solution. Contacts offer little protection if the door isn't opened as intented. With it being in a garage it would likely be easy to cable for sensors or other forms of detection more suitable. For the cost of the time to replace the controls etc, it would be silly not to suggest full system over an upgrade at first.

So there's a fault on Zone 8

Landlord had better call an engineer out then.

We have already explained this. Both are poor as regards security however, speech is slightly better if your using a landline as your not relying on a third party TAP service. If someone cuts your telephone line, which is likely in premeditated burglary your not going to get any messages anyway is the point. As regards the soot marks, Mr. H is pointing out how old the panel is and hasn't been serviced in a while.

If it's a CGA then it's speech only.

I agree you bought a Speech Dialler as described. The manuals and menus are the same on both models. TAP is pretty unreliable anyway so I wouldn't worry about it.

I recall Texecom stopped selling batteries around 10 years ago?

Yes there are two versions, cheaper speech only (CGA-0001) and speech and text (CGC-0001). The cheaper one does have all the menus too.

Don't bother using TAP text messaging it is unreliable. You'll probably get the messages next week if at all...

You need to break all these questions down one by one. They are all separate issues so work through them all one by one and post a new thread if you have to. Your not likely to get responses to a wall of text. Quick gloss over your points to put you in the right direction:- 1) It's EOL circuits on a keypad so needs mapping and programming as DP/EOL 2) Bell is suppose to sound out with no power as an anti-tamper. Not all of them have engineers hold off mode. 3)You will have to go through the programming to get it back the way you had it. 4)Speaker volume is programmable in the Global Menu if connected to the panel. This is professional grade kit that is not designed to be fitted by DIYers, there is no shortcut to knowledge of programming the system. I suggest you read the manual cover to cover a few times. You should be able to work it out it's all in there.

Can you prove the system was regularly maintained and in full working order before the event?

I'd definitely wire it and get rid, while you could just replace the panel for a Complete its one way wireless and useless if attacked. Apps are a waste of time IMO.

Maybe water in the fitting or the bulb has blown. Equally the Racal unit could have a fuse.

I also only have a 28 mainly for 8 core, 28s can be a little bit loose on 4/6 core as it is. I would say you would need both if you are using both sizes of cable. Think I would have to be doing a lot of single runs, to justify the larger gauge one.

Any system with areas could be set to work like two systems. You could wire with appropriate containment or use a hybrid system but it all comes down to cost.

60/40 electronics solder or most stock the lead free equivalent, flux is in the solder core (rosin). Do not use plumbing solder it's not suitable.