sixwheeledbeast

I would suggest you let your "electrician friend" choose a panel he is competent with if that's who is doing the work. Not sure who told you about one wire tamper, but I assume they have got confused with EOL or something.

You can't connect a SAB correctly without the module, IIRC the there is no neg or tamper return without it. It's only suitable for a internal siren, does explain all this with diagrams in the manual.

You need the output module for wired SAB's.

No problem, let us know how you get on.

If you cannot follow the the instructions in the engineering manual, maybe consider getting someone in. If the timer is only inconvenient then consider that defaulting may make the system unusable like I say above. There is no visible age on the battery so that is likely to need replacing, if not serviced in a while it's worth having the full system checked. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/ Section 12 - Do NOT post security control equipment defaulting information We do not allow the sharing of engineering manuals, default codes or defaulting instructions here for security reasons.

Not knowing the model of the alarm shouldnt be a problem if just replacing a PIR. Yes The transformer powers the control panel. There is no switch, it's a fuse that has mains voltages. I wouldn't expect it to be the default code if programmed by an installer. Defaulting the panel will require you to program everything from scratch. Easy if you know how, unlikely to have a working system if you don't know what you are doing. If you need notifications from your alarm I would suggest you get a company to fit a monitored system. Anything else provides a false sense of security.

You need a replacement battery not a bigger one. They need replacing over time like all rechargeables.

We do not provide installation instructions here for security reasons. If you have a wired system it is likely any wired external sounder will suit. Don't buy equipment if you are not going to DIY, I personally wouldn't install kit that someone else had bought. If you don't feel competent for the task at hand get some prices for a service check and new external sounder.

You have a completely different type of camera to what you wanted then.

So much of a bargain it comes without a power supply it would seem.

I assume Floureon? Used there batteries, no idea they sold consumer grade CCTV kits. Would expect it to have some sort of Micro USB port or barrel connection to power it from? Wouldn't expect anyone to have used one here.

Only ever worked a Hibernator the once, I believe they are built to order. Looked like it had a custom Debian XFCE running on it, with there software on top. I'd speak to the manufacturer or wherever you got it from.

People with limited technical knowledge of the panels and IT will struggle to get it working, there's a lot of settings to program. We are not taking about setting up consumer grade kit here. The new Smartcom is more plug and play, likely because even trained engineers are incapable of following instructions, or so it would appear. Some ISP's have backdoors into there routers (look at TR-069 hacking) and part of some ISP's automated service for line/speed issues is instructions on how to default the router. It's likely that some firmware updates will default the router, I generally avoid working on ISP provided gear if I can, it can be more hassle than it's worth. Ideally you would swap for enterprise grade router but many domestics wouldn't pay for that, or the support for the router going forward.

The only setting that is changed from the server is the polling time to 015. Other two points are possible but had no reported issues with iOS11 myself, also bear in mind that you can't login if it's trying to contact the server to push a notification, it all runs on the same port. So for example if the server was busy or set wrong it will keep trying for the amount of retries set in the programming, you wouldn't have access until it times out. If you had this issue I would expect you not to be able to access the Com-IP at all which I believe is not the case.

Hard to say without checking all the settings. I'd guess from what you say, the panel programmed to send open closes and the router has been factory reset.

Doesn't sound like it's programmed correctly. If you can connect locally that proves the alarm equipment is fine. Never had an issue with the app on any version of iOS.

Are we talking PIR's here? I wouldn't expect a normal PIR to work in a conservatory radio or not.

Bell output is rated at 500mA, Digi outputs 100mA. 20mins is over the maximum run time for a motor style high output siren. You wouldn't be happy turning up to your house after the locks have been changed, alarm disabled and a note to contact your nearest council office for entry, plus the bill to pay all the services that turned up to stop it. More likely to happen in urban areas but possible anywhere.

I see it from both ways. Would you prefer Texecom to be on the phone to DIYers explaining how to do this properly, while your engineers or yourself are on a job, on hold for hours? The technical guys have come to the conclusion it's a DIYer and banging it on the bell trig is the simple way to "get it working" with no programming. Therefore clearing the lines for more technical questions, a priority at the moment. If it works for a while without failing then job done, difference is we are mostly professionals giving advise here using our experience, you cant teach how to do our job on a forum.

Did they cover all the things I mentioned in my post? I said initially its not as simple as sticking wires in terminals. Does the Blaster have Back EMF protection? Possible but if you don't check you could blow the panel or output. I wouldn't use a bell terminal for this unless there was no other option due to my points above, however:- Did they ask what was in the bell terminals already and calculate the current? Again could blow the panel or bell trig if not checked. Did you adjust the bell time so not to burn the master out? Blasters have a duty cycle and will burn out if overrun. Was it explained about noise pollution regulations and if the sound is deemed excessive the LA can force entry to the property to kill it?

LED's are a good quick test of many common data buses. Some clever person at Texecom decided to build them into all the kit which is handy.

All time switches need to have a on and off cycle to function (think about how time cycles round), the pulse is an additional attribute that you can use which I believe only functions for the on cycle. Need to break down the fault further really. My usual method if given a problem like this is to program as eng on site (for example) and test if everything from the controls onwards works, then take it from there. Forcing or inverting the output doesn't always highlight where the problem is.

Don't have any issues with time switches I have set up on M Series. Never used Downloader. You would need to use Pulsed mode if you want a short pulse and setup the pulse time. Have you programmed the physical output as time switch 1?

As I say in my post in depends which model blaster you have. Also relays do take a current and you have to consider if protected for back EMF.

Who said anything about a relay being supplied? That would be additional kit if required. Only PE88 upwards have an onboard volt free relay which can switch upto 3A.